Yes...there's a fair amount that upgrade to the FRPP parts exclusively and now FRPP is releasing a "T" code lowering spring exclusively for the Boss. I've purchased a Hotchkis Stage 1-TVS with Hotchkis rear suspension kit, Koni yellows and MM CC plates. I want to address the nose dive and correct the understeer....while not causing my kidneys to bleed from the bumps.... driving on the street. Not sure of wheels and tires at this point....might need to think of brake upgrades first.

Wayne

 

I'd also say....don't kick yourself for not buying X, Y or Z. The trick is to be happy with what you have.....modify it when you have the cash to make it your vision. I do really well in the corners against the 2013 GT 500....but they walk away from me on the straights. Do I wish I had purchased a GT 500.....once in a while...but the extra $25K was way more than I could swing.

I think any of the new Mustangs would make me happy. Having a lightweight V6 that puts out over 300 hp.....Amazing! The GT's...pick your flavor and options...absolutely Rock the pony car world.

Enjoy these times....they might not last forever...insert EPA here.

Wayne

 

I'm wondering why so many people go for springs and struts before they ever just buy better wheels and tires.

 

Not sure wheels and tires help with brake dive and understeer.....but I could be wrong? And for me....I thought I'd see how the vehicle responds to the suspension upgrades and then decide if I want/need a new wheel and tire package..YMMV.

Wayne

 

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^ +1
I did exactly this. Went to the track stock first to get a baseline. Then upgraded suspension. Then upgraded wheels/tires. Man, has it paid off well. My car is so well-balanced on the track now. Suspension first, then wheels/tires...IMO.

 

I feel like that's backwards. Wouldn't you want to go stickier on the rubber first to get as much traction as you can to expose the weak spots in the suspension and then build your suspension to match? Also, what about the difference between staggered and square tire setups?

 

Well...I think my OEM P Zero's do a decent enough job with traction that driving it on the track gives me enough information to make changes. I was able to experience enough brake dive and understeer to realize, for me, my priority was to upgrade suspension parts. I did check out new tires... Michelin Pilot Sport 2's....right at about $2,000 tires, tax and installation. Throw those new tires on a stock suspension and do a couple of days at the track....they'll be shot. I guarentee the outside edges will be ground down to the cords on the front tires. The $2k pays for nearly all my suspension upgrades.

Square set ups are the same front tires width as the rears. I believe it's used to provide more grip in the front. Our OEM tires are smaller in the front versus the rear. I think this helps with turn in and in general makes it slightly easier to steer at normal speeds......on the track...with the square set up and appropriate suspension....you probably stick better in the corners...JMHO.

Wayne

 

A local enthusiast has the frpp suspension kit on his Brembo GT. He has 4 years autocross experience. I beat his 38 second lap time - on my first autocross ever - by 1 second. My mustang is a stock GT with 18x10 square setup, 285/35-18 hankook r-s3's. And a whiteline front sway bar on the lightest setting.

 

Yes and No. If you are upgrading to tires that will have significantly more grip than what is on the car currently, then yes. Reason being I have found that dialing in your suspension based on that level of grip makes it more intuitive/easier.

Here is what my butt dyno has told me about Staggered Vs Squared.
From what I have experienced on a staggered set up the turn in response can be a little better than squared. However it seems to me rear grip limits tend to be higher thus inducing under steer. Which I don't think is necessarily a bad thing, depending on how much. A little under steer at the limit is certainly easier to control than over steer. I run squared because I feel the car is more forgiving to the extreme mass of the Mustang being tossed back and forth repeatedly in Auto-X...plus I can rotate tires freely. Which is really nice when they cost $370/ea!

 

I would think if you have issues with body roll and brake dive they would be worse with stickier rubber. It is also all about driving style and experience. There is a guy that I try to emulate every time I go to Summit Point. He has stock suspension on his GT with a Steeda UCA and a square setup with Proxes R888's, he also has headers and a tune and better pads then me. I have LCA's PHB, PHB brace, and stock staggered tires with All seasons. I can exit corners faster but he still beats me because he can brake later and can throw his care around better. Experience matters just as much as what your running.

 

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I track the car a few times a year, and I need a comfortable daily driver. So I run an Eibach Pro-System-Plus-Kit (springs, dampers, sway bars), and staggered wheels/tires, Front=19x9, 255/40. Rear=19x10, 285/35. I do like the super-sharp and super-quick turn-in, and the very predictable understeer, just the right amount of gradual push. Makes track work very fun. I might increase one tire size each, to 265 in Front, and 295 in Back, just for a little more grip. But I do like the staggered set-up. Sucks that I can't rotate, though.