munchy_cool

Hello All,

Planning on lowering my 2013 Mustang GT Coupe. It's a daily driver 25% city and 75% highway.

Will never see the track/drag race/autocross. Strictly a daily driver. Tires 245x45x19 on 19x8.5 wheels. Next tire change, I will be going with 255x40x19 all around.

Here's the setup I have come up with.

Springs
Eibach Sportlines

Shocks and Struts
Koni Str't

Panhard Bar
BMR double adjustable

Strut Mounts
GT-500

Camber Bolts
Eibach

LCA Relocation Brackets
BMR

LCA
BMR


Questions

1. Is the setup good or would you make any changes.
2. Do I need the Koni yellows?
3. Would Eibach pro struts and shocks be better with Eibach springs or Koni's will do just fine.
4. Do I go with adjustable or non-adjustable LCA.

Rog13GTCS

I have a similar setup and I have the Koni Str't. In my opinion, if you are not going to track it you dont need the Koni Yellows. The Orange will be fine.

I'll let someone else chime in on this, but I didnt need the Camber bolts with the GT500 mounts. My local shop was able to align and get everything back into spec.

I think what you've picked looks like a good set up especially for a DD. BMR makes good equipment so no worries there. I've not used the Eibach springs so I cant give any input on them.

How much lower will those spring lower you?

My LCA's are not adjustable, however, my springs only lowered me 1" front and about 1.25" rear.

You are looking at the Poly bushings correct? For a daily you will want those.

What tires are you looking to use? I had the Cooper Zeon/Mickey Thompsons 255/40/19. They were a decent tire for the price.

munchy_cool

The drop will be 1.3" front, and 2.0" in the back. Have no idea what poly bushings are but if you can point me to them I will do my research and add them to the parts list excel.

Right now I am on 245x45x19, but when I change tires I am looking to go to 255x40x19.

houtex

https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-a...hard-0512.html

That'd be the poly version. I don't see a poly bush double adjustable, but I'm not sure you'd need it for a DD. I have this particular one, it does a fine job. FWTW.

5.M0NSTER

I see you have LCA and relo brackets. Why do you think you need them?

I'm lowered on Steeda springs, Koni Yellows, Steeda panhard, front sway and HD shock mounts running -2.0 camber. My setup is more geared for track, but it serves DD duty as well (hence adjustability)

I had a lot of people recommend LCAs, but I decided against it and never looked back. I have no wheel hop issues since I got all the suspension goodies in. In my experience LCAs are not needed. My starting point was a 2013 GT TP car.

I also wouldn't bother with Yellows for the street. Steeda pro action shocks may also be a good alternative. Some folks have had quality issues with the Orange Konis.

munchy_cool

A friend of mine recommended me to get the LCA and relo brackets so as to keep the handling and traction same as stock (or say maintain the ride quality, not sure on the exact words). He did not insist on getting them, but suggested getting them hence I added them to the list.

I was reading about the quality issues with Orange Koni's and was bending towards these as they would match the Eibach Sportlines.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/eibia...mper-1112.html

I did consider Steeda pro-actions but they do not support the drop I am getting.

" These Steeda shocks and struts fit Mustangs with factory springs and most aftermarket spring systems that drop the front and rear chassis by less than 1-1/2"."

Source :- http://www.stage3motorsports.com/555...ks-Struts.html

PS:- after reading all day on here about suspension I was actually waiting for you to comment

PonyMuscletang13

Thought I'd share opinion.
Please note that these are based on my own impressions and may not be accurate.

That being said,

Mine is too, a Daily. Possibly spirited on the weekends? I'd assume your starting point was the looks, just as I was. I hated the 4x4 look especially with the brembo/tp car (vs. base), the tire gap is much greater. Also, I felt unsafe driving highway. The car would bounce sideways like a semi-truck when lane change at (relatively) higher speed.

The Eibach Sportlines might sit 'too low' for this purpose. It'll look awesome for sure with minimal gaps but generally the lower it goes the harsher it gets. Have you considered the potholes, speed bumps...etc? I stumbled upon how low, ended up getting height-adjustable Coilovers. Much regrets. The DD's need some travel distances. If you insist however, the H&R Super-Sports will drop even lower.


Shouldn't be an issue on the same wheels. The new 255x40 has a tiny bit less diameter (0.7"). Try this calculator:
Wheel-Tire Size Comparer


As someone mentioned, I've also heard some issues with Koni Oranges. Mostly build quality related. I've looked into the Koni Yellows as many members here recommend them being adjustable but looked away for harshness. In regards to LCAs/Relo Brackets/Camber Bolts. What I hear is that it depends how low you go. With 2.0" drop, my guess is you need them to correct the geometry along with caster camber plates instead of bolts, which will allow greater adjustments.

My pick is this one: Bilstein B12 Pro-kit
Many will agree to disagree but I'm getting a good vibe on these. Something that doesn't compromise the ride quality but still maintain sporty feel and look good. These will go on to my car. Thoughts?

5.M0NSTER

I'm glad not to disappoint then . I'm guessing you're read enough of my opinions already!

Good find on the match of Pro Action kit. I forgot how much lower the Eibach springs are, and having the ride height and spring rate match the capability of the shock is paramount for ride quality and good damping.

With that much lowering LCAs may be a good addition. The nice thing is you can try it without, and add them later if needed. Also you may want to check the drive shaft pinion angle afterwards. Consensus is when exceeding 1.5" drop on the back there are some consequences.

munchy_cool

My starting point was looks as well. Initially, I had only the springs, shocks and struts, gt500 mounts and adjustable panhard bar on the list.

A buddy of mine brought up the point of adding rear LCA adjustable mounts and LCA's to keep the same ride traction and handling (which I am guessing is because of the drop).

The wheels, aah. I wanted 275's but I have 19x8.5 rims so the max I can go is 255 and that's what I will do next time when I change the tires. The calculator you linked is what I use all the time

The drop in the front will be 1.3 and rear 2.0, so I guess I will be fine with a camber bolt, or as suggested by another friend try flipping the gt500 mount 180 degrees.

As for going in with Bilstein's. I dont think I can afford them right now.

munchy_cool

Have been reading a lot lately about lowering, so have to keep track of all I read.

Anyways, just read that GT500 mounts are to be used with 2005-2010 struts and mounts. The one's I linked are specifically for 2011-2014, so I will have to check if they work with Gt500 mounts or not.

Eibach Sportlines drop 1.3 on the front, and 2.0 on the rear. i am guessing which is why my buddy suggested the LCA mods.

5.M0NSTER

Sounds like a plan. And no 11-14 struts are different length, so they do not work with GT500 mounts. Have to go 05-09 route, or get different mounts.

munchy_cool

what other options do we have for strut mounts?

Are we looking at Steeda, MM or J&M CC Plates?

5.M0NSTER

Pretty much. I went with Steeda and been very happy with them. They allow a 2.5 deg camber adjustment, and don't make any noise. I've heard some people complaining of creaking/poping noises with some other mounts.

fourdegrees11

When you lower the rear it changes the geometry of the LCA, a relo bracket brings it back to spec. You definitely want them especially with such a big drop. As mentioned on the other forum you really should check out the Strange shock/struts because you really have no idea how disappointed you might be with the ride quality after lowering, and being adjustable will allow you to correct that. Non adjustable means you are stuck with what you have as far as the ride quality. Suspension install is labor intensive whether it's you doing it or paying a shop, you dont want to hate driving your car cause it rides like **** and have to swap parts. Any caster/camber plates can be used as strut mounts, which is ideal over the factory mounts. GT500 mounts are just the cheapest upgrade option. The stock GT mounts tend to pop when lowered more then 1".

2k7gtcs

This!

With relo brackets and LCA's you can get this sucker to just plain hook up when done. The key is keeping that LCA parallel with the ground and it won't be that way if you drop 2" and don't do the relo's.

munchy_cool

Single adjustable or double?

fourdegrees11

Not sure what you mean, they have 10 settings from firm to soft. So 10 way adjustable lol

munchy_cool

my bad, the double adjustable's are coil overs.

Rog13GTCS

If he is lowering 2.0" in the rear isnt he going to need to adjust pinion angle? Wouldnt he need an adjustable UCA or adjustable LCA's?