Are adjustable control arms really necessary? Can I get away with non adjustable?

The car is for fast road drving, some autocross and occasional track day.

 

Adjustable LCA's? I'd say no. I'd recommend an adjustable UCA are good for correcting or setting pinion angle on a lowered car. Otherwise, solid lower control arms would be fine. I've been extremely happy with mine for the last 6 years or so and I've done the first 2 out of the 3 you mentioned.

I'm sure you could get your setup *just* right w/ adjustable LCAs if you're a suspension tuning expert, but most of us aren't. And having to make sure both sides are adjusted the same would be problematic too.

 

http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbr-0506-001.html
Check these out. I have a set of these and I have been told by vendors that do not sell them, that they are of good quality. Didn't the track pack cars come with upgraded LCA's from the factory?

 

Yes but they are not good, stamped steel that look flimsy, I'm surprised they were fitted to the gt500.

 

Actually, your GT track pack LCA's have high-durometer poly bushings (important) and a heavier, alloyed stamped metal (less important) than OEM LCA's. Unless you need adjustable LCA's, they'll do fine for the type of driving you described.

 

I am under impression heavier duty lca will reduce wheel hop?

Howcome the boss 302s and r use different LCA?

If it is one less part I have to buy then great but they visually do not look robust.

 

The LCA's used on the B302 have a solid tubular construction; the LCA's on the GT-TP and the 500 are constructed of heavy stamped, formed, and welded steel. The tubular design is slightly stiffer than the formed design. However, Ford Racing told me that the durometer rating of the poly bushings in the 500/GT-TP is a bit higher than that of the B302 bushings. So it's probably close to a wash, with a slight edge to the 500/GT-TP since bushings are more significant in most situations than structural stiffness.

Best thing to do is gauge wheel hop on launch or coming out of tight curves -- if you're having issues consider another LCA. Keep in mind, however, that a lot of things affect wheel hop; your current LCA's may be fine but you may also need to look at something else.

 

Going from the soft rubber bushings on my stock '06 GT LCAs to urthane on my BMR LCAs made a huge difference in wheel hop. But if you've already got high durometer bushings from your track pack setup, I'm not sure.

 

I do not have the track pack because it didn't exist for my 12. I do have the Brembo brake package that I believe uses the same lca as the track pack. I still had wheel hop. I switched to billet lcas from steeda. I had heard that some tubular lcas could increase nvh. It did reduce it a great deal but I did require more parts to eliminate it.

 

Thank you, sir.

These would be the ones:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZ6B...ature=youtu.be


Depending on what your long term goals are & what kind of HP you are looking to put down ... we can put together a nice package for you - some nice pricing this time of the year.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

I have a 2011 Brembo car with the GT 500 LCA's. I too reduced wheel hop by switching to the Steeda billet LCA's. Made a big difference and they look good too.

 

Keep em coming ... love to hear it!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

I'm not sure who you were replying to. If it was me the link I left was for some billet pieces. If not, sorry I misunderstood.

 

To you. No problem.

 

In my quest on this issuie, it's all in the bushings and not the construction or looks. If you could press out the OEM bushings on LCA & UCA and replace with a heavier bushing it would do the same as aftermarket. But if you require an adjustable arm then the OEM is out the window.
However......It's WAY EASIER to replace the whole arms than the bushings.
The heavier / stiffer the bushing will transmit noise. This is one main reason the OEM is softer. They try to find that fine line on preformance and sound.
From what I have learned about wheel hop. The UCA is the most important to combat the HOP.
From the sound of this thread, it seems like your more into drag racing more than track racing. For drag racing you will want parts in the rear that will handle the hard launches time after time. Track racing is alot eaiser on the rear and people are more concerned about handling comming in and out of corners. If you have the torsen Dif. its not the best for drag racing. It can not handle that kind of stress. If you just have your car as a street machine and enjoy putting your foot into it now and then....Just be mindfull if you run the torsen dif. Such as adding Drag radials or slicks!

Enjoy your Mustang
the way you want to.

 

I have used the Steeda billet LAC'S in my car for five years now and am very happy with them.