And I love the springs and the LCA's, I'm not so sure I love the Barton shifter bracket though. It doesn't seem to have done much other than add some noise that's now more easily transmitted from the trans into the cabin.

The BMR rear LCA's and the 55D rear springs though, I love.
My wheel hop is gone and the car now sits level.
Exactly what I wanted


Got everything installed at Enhanced Street Performance in Sterling MA earlier today, and as usual they were professional and affordable. I've been going there for a few years now, and they've done a lot of work on my previous car, the '07 Charger, including replacing a blown motor prior to me trading that car in for the Mustang.

Now for the pics

Which one looks beefier? LOL


Right rear BMR installed:


Left rear BMR installed:


New spring on top, original spring on bottom:


New spring installed:



New ride height:
Only put about 50-75 miles on the new set-up so far, maybe they'll settle a little bit more ... so far I like what I see though.





Edit: The "before" :




Edit #2, after about 300 miles on the new springs:

 

After roughly 300 miles on the new set-up I can say I'm about 97% happy with it.

Axle/wheel hop on a clutch-dump launch off the line is gone on dry pavement, and about 95% gone if moving in 2nd gear about 20-25mph and revving/dumping the clutch - it spins, goes sideways depending on how much throttle I give it, or if I lay into it, but hops a little bit.

In the wet I still get a decent amount of wheel hop and that tells me I'm not not modding the rear suspension.

Relo brackets and maybe an upper control arm replacement will be done. Not sure when cuz for now I'm pretty darn happy with the car, but they will happen eventually.


.

 

I've really enjoyed reading your thread. I appreciate you taking the time to post. You answered many questions for me that I was too lazy to ask. I hope your next steps go well and I look forward to reading them.

 

Relocation brackets will help the wheel hop. You can always call The Front End Shop in Brookline NH we do Mustang mods quite often.
A beefier adj. UCA will help and also give some adjustability to the driveline pinion angle as the lower you go the chance of it changing increases. Did you do an adj. panhard bar? Lowering can cause the axle to push to one side, something to consider.
J&M makes some seriously good products. I would also be thinking a Shaftmaster driveshaft, drop about 26 lbs and no cv joint to fail.

What tire are you running?


Nice ride keep up posted.

 

good quality parts you ended up with, the ride hight doesn't seem to have changed much though

 

Thanks, I'll keep you guys updated

Thanks. No, I didn't replace the stock panhard bar yet, that's something I plan on doing before I do the next set of rims/tires on the car, as I want to do a 20" wheel set with 305-wide rear tires.

And the Shaftmasters driveshaft I really want too, but being unemployed currently, it's hard to justify spending the $600+ when the stock shaft is still OK.

Thanks and no, it hasn't, ... I'll try to take some new pics again soon, maybe they've settled a little more.
I'll be driving the car tomorrow so hopefully I'll remember to pull over somewhere and snap a couple new pics.

 

I just added 3 new pics to the first post, taken earlier today, so after about 300 miles on the new set-up.


.

 

Gabe

Now that you have run this set up awhile what are your impressions and did the rear end drop like you thought it would?
I like your approach to the mods, would you do the same mods again or something different first?

 

I like the set-up quite a bit. I didn't want to lower the whole car, I only wanted to get rid of the huge height in the rear, and these springs have done that for me.
As far as mods, I wouldn't change anything I've done, except maybe get the Steeda white shifter ****/polished spacer combo, instead of an EPCO **** and a black spacer that I was trying to polish myself - which is a huge pain in the butt ... lol
And I wish that I had a 1-piece driveshaft, but at over $600 and being unemployed, that's been a hard-to-make purchase ...

I'll try to take more pics again very soon ... there's about a thousand miles on the current set-up now

 

Gabe, Did you paint your rear axle yourself? They look much better painted. I'm thinking about doing that to mine just for better appearence, before it has the chance to get too rusty. Did you prep it before painting? Thanks, Steve

 

Nope, the rear axle paint is stock

 

I think the painted rear axle comes that way with the TrackPack option.

 

I plan on doing the same springs on my 12 gt premium,brembo,6mt, along with the Roush 3rd link (anti wheel hop kit).I want to totally eliminate the wheel hop with no added nvh.The lca only help with hop,they dont cure it.Do you have any squeaking or any drawbacks with the lca,s,because if the Roush kit doesnt totally get rid of the hop i will also get lca,s to complete it.

 

Relocation brackets are not needed unless your car is lowered more than the 1/2 inch drop that your springs give.They are used for lowered cars to correct the pinion angle,but your spring will not change the geometry enough to warrant relocation brackets.Look into it!!

 

Had some creaking from the LCA bushings ... bought a tube of synthetic lube and a lube gun with a flexible extension and pumped until grease came out of the sides of the bushings ... noise gone

 

When Ford developed the Boss, they made a decision to paint the rear axle. Dave Pericek said he didn't want to see Boss 302s with rusty axles on the Chassis cam during auction coverage in 10 years. LOL So all Bosses have painted axle housings.

When you order the Track Pack on a 2013, you get the Boss 302 Torsion Diff and Rear axle, including the painted axle housing and the finned aluminum diff cover.