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Improving my GT's suspension

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Old 4/3/14 | 05:45 PM
  #21  
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The BMR pan hard bar also arrived today. Maybe I will bolt that on tonight.

Old 4/3/14 | 08:00 PM
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Really looking forward to seeing the car when it's done. Lotta the same specific parts here that are on my option list. Good luck with the rest!
Old 4/3/14 | 10:17 PM
  #23  
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Thanks! Can't wait for the weekend.
Old 4/5/14 | 10:39 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Plim
Thanks! Can't wait for the weekend.
Well, the weekend came...

And I was getting busy:


My $14 harbor freight spring compressor did a wonderful job. Although the device looked simple enough, but it took me a little while to figure out how the nuts were supposed to be used. In the picture, you see the top nut, on the bottom spring compressor, not in the clamp. This is wrong and it can cause the thread to potentially strip. It needs to be right in the clamp:


The old and the new. Look at the difference in length of the spring. Also when I removed the original strut mount, it just fell apart into 2 pieces. It is clicked together with a piece of plastic..... the GT500 strut mounts are a lot sturdier!


And I did get it back together again :-)


The finished product:






After a shake down and some spirited driving on some Californian highways, and mountain roads, this is the final drop:




Front went from 28 3/8th to 27 1/2 inch
Rear went from 29 1/4th to 28 1/8th


After all this hard work my son and I deserved some dinner. We went to Famous Dave's BBQ in San Jose.


What are my impressions so far:
I would not have been able to do this without:
- an air impact wrench, and deep wall socket wrenches,
- a breaker bar. In some cases the impact wrench will not fit. Some of the bolts/nuts are really tight !
- The you tube video's by MotorZ etc. are really useful! however, somehow they are able to loosen all the fasteners with a battery operated impact gun.... I think they rehearsed the show and everything was already somewhat lose.
- most difficult was to remove the original pan hard bar on the passenger side!

Driving:
this is a big, big difference ! The ride is of course a little more rough. But the handling is immensely superior to what it was. Especially when driving through a dip or bump in the road, the car used to be a little bit of a boat. Now not so much! It absorbs the bump or dip, without much drama. The car is much more controllable.
The drop is not big enough to have impact on me driving into my driveway So that is good!
Nose dive and squat is nearly completely gone.

Thanks to the guys at Hypermotive, who set me up with this kit!

Last edited by Plim; 4/5/14 at 11:08 PM.
Old 4/5/14 | 11:33 PM
  #25  
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Nice job. Its funny, but your drops don't look as low as the photos Rog13GTCS posted of his drop with Steeda springs, even though he otherwise used the same dampers and mounts. Yours retained a little bit of rake and pretty even gaps around the tires. I'm thinking of ruling out the Steeda springs now, leaving Eibach and Ford P's on the list. I still see the odd Eibach car that looks a little low for my tastes but then I see cars like yours that look great. Interesting to see how much more they'll settle.
Old 4/6/14 | 12:20 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by lakeguy77
Nice job. Its funny, but your drops don't look as low as the photos Rog13GTCS posted of his drop with Steeda springs, even though he otherwise used the same dampers and mounts. Yours retained a little bit of rake and pretty even gaps around the tires. I'm thinking of ruling out the Steeda springs now, leaving Eibach and Ford P's on the list. I still see the odd Eibach car that looks a little low for my tastes but then I see cars like yours that look great. Interesting to see how much more they'll settle.
There are two Eibach kits for sale. I believe the first one is called the sport line, and the one that I got: the pro kit. The sport line should have a bigger drop and should also be stiffer (so I was informed...).


It would surprise me, if the drop would become bigger over time. I really did do a shake down, and I took the car on some mountain twisties. Next to that the roads in my area aren't know for being smooth.... I think this is the drop.

Last edited by Plim; 4/6/14 at 12:26 AM.
Old 4/6/14 | 07:53 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Plim
There are two Eibach kits for sale. I believe the first one is called the sport line, and the one that I got: the pro kit. The sport line should have a bigger drop and should also be stiffer (so I was informed...).


It would surprise me, if the drop would become bigger over time. I really did do a shake down, and I took the car on some mountain twisties. Next to that the roads in my area aren't know for being smooth.... I think this is the drop.
Yeah I definitely do not want the Sportlines. I'm looking for a conservative drop and yours looks great. I may PM you closer to when my car comes and you've put miles on your setup to see if they've settled further, right now they look pretty much exactly what I want. Eibach Prokit is edging ahead of FRPP-P's.
Old 4/6/14 | 08:23 AM
  #28  
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Actually quick question...With the GT500 mounts, did you use the 05-09 Prokits and STR.T's? Or do the mounts work with the 11-14 stuff?
Old 4/6/14 | 09:47 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by lakeguy77
Actually quick question...With the GT500 mounts, did you use the 05-09 Prokits and STR.T's? Or do the mounts work with the 11-14 stuff?
I'm not sure what you are asking exactly. So I might miss the point. But here I go:
I purchased the following:
  • 35125.14 - Eibach prokit springs 2011+ Mustang
  • PHR006BH - BMR on car adjustable PHB 05+ Mustang
  • M-18183-C - GT500/ FRPP upgraded strut mounts 1
  • 8750-1030/ 8250-1008 - Koni STR.t orange strut and shock set
And my Mustang is a 2013 GT. I don't know if it makes a significant difference in weight, but mine is automatic.
Hope this helps.
Just to be clear: I only bought the stuff..... it was Hypermotive who listened to what my end result needed to be, and advised me on the parts. I was originally informed by a different company, and they had given me advise to go with the sport line kit. BBK camber plates and no new shocks (and I was having issue with the rebound when driving at speed though dips in the road).

Hypermotive told me that for what I was looking for, the sport line springs would probably be too stiff (and indeed from what I have experienced yesterday: I don't want much rougher ride). Also Jay told me, he would gladly sell me the BBK's as well, but I would be good with the much cheaper GT500 strut mounts. He also advised me on the adjustable pan hard bar. And indeed, when I checked yesterday, the axle was about 1/4 inch too far to the driver's side, and with the pub, it was easy to put the axle in the middle.

I would say, hit up those guys at Hypermotive, they listen and give honest advise (and are not stuck with only one brand).
Old 4/6/14 | 08:50 PM
  #30  
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I did some more driving today. I went to Blackhawk Cars & Coffee in San Ramon. About an hour and a half from my home. On my way back we decided to take a detour and eat some sushi in Santa Clara, and my spirited driving caught the attention of a very friendly police officer. She pulled me over and gave me a lecture about my driving... apparently she was doing 45 and she said I blew past her (I never noticed the police cruiser...). Anyway she was kind enough to leave it at that, and I was on my way again.

Why this story: well, after a few hours (approx 3/4 of a tank of gas) of pushing the car hard through the twistsies and and on the high way, I pulled into the parking lot at the sushi place. It had a speed bump. And there was an awful squeak from the rear of the car. In fact every time I drove over a speed bump I noticed that squeak.
So back home I checked everything, and it turns out the sway bar is making the noise.... the one part that I did not change.

Would there be a relation between the suspension upgrade and the recent squeaking of the bushings?

So what to do?
I was not really looking at getting new stiffer sway bars. What bushings would you guys recommend replacing the stock ones with? Or should I just go to Ford and try a warranty claim?

Last edited by Plim; 4/6/14 at 08:51 PM.
Old 4/12/14 | 12:02 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Plim
I did some more driving today. I went to Blackhawk Cars & Coffee in San Ramon. About an hour and a half from my home. On my way back we decided to take a detour and eat some sushi in Santa Clara, and my spirited driving caught the attention of a very friendly police officer. She pulled me over and gave me a lecture about my driving... apparently she was doing 45 and she said I blew past her (I never noticed the police cruiser...). Anyway she was kind enough to leave it at that, and I was on my way again.

Why this story: well, after a few hours (approx 3/4 of a tank of gas) of pushing the car hard through the twistsies and and on the high way, I pulled into the parking lot at the sushi place. It had a speed bump. And there was an awful squeak from the rear of the car. In fact every time I drove over a speed bump I noticed that squeak.
So back home I checked everything, and it turns out the sway bar is making the noise.... the one part that I did not change.

Would there be a relation between the suspension upgrade and the recent squeaking of the bushings?

So what to do?
I was not really looking at getting new stiffer sway bars. What bushings would you guys recommend replacing the stock ones with? Or should I just go to Ford and try a warranty claim?
I'd start by spraying a little white lithium lube on all the bushings/end link connections in the back. Drive it a couple days. If that resolves it, its possible that the spirited driving had the bar shifting and let some dirt/dust in. You can either leave the white lithium on there or clean it off, and take the bushings off and grease them with something a little heavier duty. Third option is aftermarket bushings but those may need lube even more often.
Old 4/12/14 | 06:52 PM
  #32  
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unbolted the sway bar, put some grease on the bushings and end links, and carefully put everything back together, hand tightening left and right sides first, and tightening after that until spec (but left and right a bit at the time), all while the car is sitting on the suspension. Also made sure everything lined up properly. And the squeak is gone.
Old 4/12/14 | 07:06 PM
  #33  
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I measured the ride height of the Mustang, and I can let you all know that, a week after install, nothing changed. The drop is exactly the same as it was a day after install.


And this is my garage, sorted from low to high

Old 4/12/14 | 08:14 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Plim
unbolted the sway bar, put some grease on the bushings and end links, and carefully put everything back together, hand tightening left and right sides first, and tightening after that until spec (but left and right a bit at the time), all while the car is sitting on the suspension. Also made sure everything lined up properly. And the squeak is gone.
Anytime I've ever had a suspension squeak or creak, I look at sway bar bushings first. Most of the time, that's all it is.

And nice garage BTW. I only got two stalls, so the stang will hibernate off site.
Old 4/23/14 | 11:41 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by lakeguy77
Anytime I've ever had a suspension squeak or creak, I look at sway bar bushings first. Most of the time, that's all it is.

And nice garage BTW. I only got two stalls, so the stang will hibernate off site.
Turned out to be the pan hard bar, and the lateral stiffener bar, that I had torqued down to hard. After fastening them to spec, the squeak was gone.

yeah, I'm lucky having a three car garage. But living in California, my Mustang doesn't get to hibernate. He's not allowed out side when it rains though...
Old 4/24/14 | 11:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Plim
Turned out to be the pan hard bar, and the lateral stiffener bar, that I had torqued down to hard. After fastening them to spec, the squeak was gone.

yeah, I'm lucky having a three car garage. But living in California, my Mustang doesn't get to hibernate. He's not allowed out side when it rains though...
Interesting tip there. What torquespec did you use?

Mine will be a summer DD and my other car may go into storage...or sleep on the street in case it rains.
Old 4/24/14 | 06:41 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by lakeguy77
Interesting tip there. What torquespec did you use?

Mine will be a summer DD and my other car may go into storage...or sleep on the street in case it rains.
Is this what you're looking for?
Torque specs for front Suspension
(Nm = Newton Meters ft/lbs = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch pounds)
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts: 133 Nm - 98 ft/lbs.
Dust Shield Bolts: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Wheel Spindle Pinch Nut: 103 Nm - 76 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (front): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (Rear): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Heat Shield Bolts: 10 Nm - 89 in/lbs.
Brake Line Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Strut Upper Mount: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Strut to Spindle Bolts: 200 Nm - 148 ft/lbs.
Strut to Body Nuts: 35 Nm - 26 ft/lbs.
Wheel Hub Retainer Nut: 300 Nm - 221 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Anti-lock Brake Sensor Bolt: 6 Nm - 53 in/lbs.
Outer Tie-Rod Ends: 80 Nm - 59 ft/lbs.
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.

Torque Specs for Rear Suspension
(Nm = Newton meters ft/lbs. = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch Pounds)
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut: 40 Nm - 10 ft/lbs.
Rear Shock Absorber Lower Bolt: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Body Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Panhard Rod to Body Mount Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Pahhard Rod to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Nut: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Bolts: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Parking Brake Cable Bracket to Lower Arm: 27 Nm - 20 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Front Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Upper Control arm Bushing Nut: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Fuel Tank Strap Bolt: 51 Nm -38 ft/lbs.
Brake House Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs
Old 4/25/14 | 06:32 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Rog13GTCS
Is this what you're looking for?
Torque specs for front Suspension
(Nm = Newton Meters ft/lbs = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch pounds)
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts: 133 Nm - 98 ft/lbs.
Dust Shield Bolts: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Wheel Spindle Pinch Nut: 103 Nm - 76 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (front): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (Rear): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Heat Shield Bolts: 10 Nm - 89 in/lbs.
Brake Line Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Strut Upper Mount: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Strut to Spindle Bolts: 200 Nm - 148 ft/lbs.
Strut to Body Nuts: 35 Nm - 26 ft/lbs.
Wheel Hub Retainer Nut: 300 Nm - 221 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Anti-lock Brake Sensor Bolt: 6 Nm - 53 in/lbs.
Outer Tie-Rod Ends: 80 Nm - 59 ft/lbs.
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.

Torque Specs for Rear Suspension
(Nm = Newton meters ft/lbs. = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch Pounds)
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut: 40 Nm - 10 ft/lbs.
Rear Shock Absorber Lower Bolt: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Body Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Panhard Rod to Body Mount Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Pahhard Rod to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Nut: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Bolts: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Parking Brake Cable Bracket to Lower Arm: 27 Nm - 20 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Front Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Upper Control arm Bushing Nut: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Fuel Tank Strap Bolt: 51 Nm -38 ft/lbs.
Brake House Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs
Old 8/23/14 | 12:57 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Rog13GTCS
Is this what you're looking for?
Torque specs for front Suspension
(Nm = Newton Meters ft/lbs = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch pounds)
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts: 133 Nm - 98 ft/lbs.
Dust Shield Bolts: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Wheel Spindle Pinch Nut: 103 Nm - 76 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (front): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (Rear): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Heat Shield Bolts: 10 Nm - 89 in/lbs.
Brake Line Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Strut Upper Mount: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Strut to Spindle Bolts: 200 Nm - 148 ft/lbs.
Strut to Body Nuts: 35 Nm - 26 ft/lbs.
Wheel Hub Retainer Nut: 300 Nm - 221 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Anti-lock Brake Sensor Bolt: 6 Nm - 53 in/lbs.
Outer Tie-Rod Ends: 80 Nm - 59 ft/lbs.
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.

Torque Specs for Rear Suspension
(Nm = Newton meters ft/lbs. = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch Pounds)
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut: 40 Nm - 10 ft/lbs.
Rear Shock Absorber Lower Bolt: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Body Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Panhard Rod to Body Mount Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Pahhard Rod to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Nut: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Bolts: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Parking Brake Cable Bracket to Lower Arm: 27 Nm - 20 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Front Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Upper Control arm Bushing Nut: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Fuel Tank Strap Bolt: 51 Nm -38 ft/lbs.
Brake House Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs
I know this is an old thread but the specs you posted are perfect. Where did you get them? I am wanting to get a manual on a 2014 GT. Do you have one? Which one.

Thank you.
Old 8/23/14 | 01:34 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Jazzman442
I know this is an old thread but the specs you posted are perfect. Where did you get them? I am wanting to get a manual on a 2014 GT. Do you have one? Which one.

Thank you.
I found them in an older thread that another member had posted, and I saved them for future reference. No I dont have a manual.



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