So I have about 600 miles on my FRPP V6 Handling Pack and FRPP Adjustable Panhard Bar. If you've seen my other post, you'll know that my dealer installed everything. The tech made one mistake, though. He adjusted the panhard bar while it was under load per procedure but forgot to tighten the lock nuts. Within 100 miles it loosened up and I had a heck of a lot of rattles and clunking. A trip back to the dealer got everything (struts, shocks sway bars, PHB...etc) rechecked for proper torque and got a sincere apology as well.

I also discovered that one of the hangers on my FRPP Sport mufflers were a little longer than stock. The right rear would strike the spare tire well if I hit the right kind of bump. I took care of that with a sawsall and a rubber cap.

I just have one small NVH issue left. When I back out of my driveway or when I make a slow (parking lot speeds) hard right or left turn, I'll hear a small thump from either the left or right rear; depending on the direction of the turn. It's almost if something is binding then releasing. It doesn't happen as I drive down the road regardless of bumpy things are.

Overall I'm quite happy how quiet this suspension is. I've read a lot of posts on noisy racks and struts. The front suspension of my car is dead quiet. The back is too, except for this specific binding clunk. It's not loud, it's just noticeable. Once I figure this out, the suspension will be as quiet as stock.

 

When did the noisestart? Is it a thunking sound or squeakingsound. Your bushings are polly so I don’tthink they would bind on you, especially if they were greased. Do you also hear the sound if you just gostraight over bump or only when turning? One thing to check is the clearance between the rear bump stops and theframe. When I had my suspensioninstalled I noticed a really small gap even though I also added the rear FRPbump stops. I drove it that way allwinter and did notice that it would hit the frame on speed bumps or aggressive potholes. I shaved off the first hump on both of mine.

 

When I back out of my driveway or when I make a slow (parking lot speeds) hard right or left turn, I'll hear a small thump from either the left or right rear; depending on the direction of the turn. It's almost if something is binding then releasing. It doesn't happen as I drive down the road regardless of bumpy things are.

There is about 4 inches between my rear bump stops and the frame.

 

Is this the first time you've driven an SRA with Track-Lok differential? The clutch packs are not noise free.

 

Does it happen when driving up as well as down your drive way? I had a noise start after lowering my car and figured it was the end links, eventually it went away, not sure if it was because I greased the hell out of the bushings or if they just settled eventually.

 

Yes it is. that sure sounds logical. Only low speeds maneuvers causes it and the sound seems high in the trunk. Thanks.

More info...

I discovered the tech installed the sway bar brackets incorrectly. The plate was on the other side and only the washers were keeping the bolts from popping through very large holes . I re-assmbled them per the photo instructions included with the sway bar package. I added more grease to the bushings (three pumps per instructions) and drove it some more. Though not completely resolved, it klunks much less. Just backing out of my pitched driveway. Not as much during parking lot turns.



BTW, The panhard bar is torqued to 129 ft lbs per instructions.

 

Most likely the end links then from the sway. Put a few thousand on it and see if it goes away completely.

 

Is there supposed to be some kind of rubber seat where the top of the springs meet the rear subframe, or is it metal on metal? The noise seams like it's right behind the rear seatback, not low buy the wheels were the swaybar anchors

 

I don't believe so, I thought the top of the spring perch was similar to the bottom. Might be possible the shop didn't install the new springs in the same orientation as the old and they are popping on the perch.

 

The tighter coils are to the top. I watched this video (5:58 in) and it appears that orientation is correct.

The one difference between the video and the instructions that came with the sway bars was the guy in the video (8:30 in) said to pump grease into the fittings on the sway bar bushing until you see it ooze out. The instructions say 3 pumps. That's odd because I'm sure grease gun "pumps" can be different from gun to gun.

I'm getting close to putting a GoPro under the car . I can live with thunk, it's not that big of a deal. It's more of a challenge. I enjoy troubleshooting.

 

It appears you may be correct. I have 1050 miles on it now. The low speed, hard right or hard left turn "clunk" is getting quieter and happens less often.

I am really digging this package

 

I see you’re enjoying your new ‘Stang, ustabawannab. Be sure to keep your dealer informed, and keep me updated.

Deysha

 

Good to hear it is going away, also you should every so often check yourself or have the dealer check the torque on the suspension just as a precaution. I remembered this tip after seeing you said the dealer didn't tighten something and after 100 miles it loosened up. When installing things from Whiteline they suggest a retorque after 100 miles and after that you should be good.

 

Thanks Deysha. I am really having fun with this car. The FRPP V6 Handling Pack is worth every penny but there is also a lot to be said about how this car performs as a complete package.

I just checked the locking nuts and anchor bolts on my panhard bar. That was the component that came loose. Still good.

I'm going to check the struts and sway bar up front in a couple of weeks when the snows go on. I have to move the front sway bar to the softest setting anyway. Right now it's in hole #2 which is the street performance setting.

From Ford Racing regarding the M-FR3-MV6A

Full rear / softest setting
Reduces under-steer
Use in rain or on slick roads
Use on rough or bumpy roads
Increases comfort
Use with additional trunk weight

Mid setting / street performance setting
Tuning out under or over-steer
For normal driving conditions
Dry street driving

Full forward / firmest setting
Reduces over-steer
Use on dry roads and tracks
Use on smooth roads and tracks
DO NOT USE ON WET OR SLICK ROADS

 

That's awesome!

Deysha

 

Well folks, after 1800 miles, the suspension has completely quieted down. The ride has also improved as well. I can report I am thoroughly happy with the FRPP V6 Handling Pack.

There is this long, reducing radius off-ramp by my house that puts a smile on my face a mile wide every time I take it. The front end never pitches. As the corner gets tighter the car rotates beautifully. After driving FWD sport sedans for 9 years, it is such a pleasure not pushing through the turn.