Wild5.0

I just lowered my car, took it to my ford dealer to have it aligned. They said they couldn't get the toe within range. They told me that per ford recommendation the front strut will be drilled and a larger diameter bolt will be used to adjust the toe angle. Since my koni struts are brand new and my tires will be replaced in 6 months I told them to leave it for now. What can I get to correct the slight toe for only the passenger side? I am guessing caster camber plates for both sides?

Anyways, I got the car back and I noticed it pulls to the left. Before the alignment the car was actually going straight. I am assuming this is because they weren't able to get the front passenger side within spec. Here is pic of the results from the alignment, let me know what you guys think.

houtex

You need to read that chart again, because it's not the toe, it's your *camber*, which happens quite a bit with lowering a car. The toe is in spec, both around .10 degrees. If they told you toe, they were mistaken. Says so right on the sheet. Also, side note, the caster is really close on the left side, and quite a bit off from 'middle' on the right. So take that into consideration, and read on, sir.

Their recommendation is actually... ok, ish. The other solution to do what they're saying is called a camber bolt, and you can get them at plenty of places. I have a set, I didn't need them when I lowered my car 1". I'm guessing maybe you stuck it lower, hence the camber problem. The drilling seems extreme, but a quicker fix at the shop than waiting for camber bolts.

The other way is to get caster/camber plates, which replace your top strut mounts, and allow you to adjust the camber and caster of the car. Given the situation, I'd go with this option, because of the caster readings.

In case you didn't know about it.. These suspensions are 'set from the factory forever' for front caster and camber, rear axle centering and thrust angle. Well, they hope 'forever', and in the case of the front suspension, it pretty much is. Toe is the *ONLY* adjustable thing that comes from the factory, everything else is *expected* to be in the right place on these cars. So fiddling with them by lowering the car will muck up the suspension angles. It all depends on all the suspension mounting points to be accurate. So if the frame or strut towers are bent, this can present problems. Pretty sure yours isn't having bent issues... right?

But if you change the 'at rest' position of the suspension by lowering it, the angles of the suspension are messed up in front, specifically the camber angle, which makes the tops of the tires/wheels move inward (or the bottoms move outward, whatever makes ya feel better) because the suspension isn't 'square' in it's movement. The wheel moves in an arc like this: ( ) Not this: | | Nor even this: ) ( or any other combo. Not unless it's really broken, that is.

So again, the two ways to fix that are camber bolts (or, in their case, making a bigger hole and sticking a bigger bolt, same sorta thing) or caster camber plates up top, all so you can move the strut about to correct the tilting that was induced by the lowering kit.

Now, I'm not a fan of the drilling. I get it, but... still. I'm not a huge fan of the camber bolts either, but those would allow someone to adjust the camber rather than just poke a hole and hope. But in your case, the best option is to get a set of good caster/camber plates and be done with it. And get a tech who knows how to work 'em, 'cause some don't.

Oh yeah, couple other things... the Konis, while they *should* be in spec with the Ford assemblies, holes in the right places, etc... they aren't quite. Spring perches are a little lower, this is known, and holes might or might not be in the *exact* same places... that sort of thing. So they may be helping to induce the camber issue.

And regarding the pull... well, yeah, when the car's suspension's not happy, things will be happening. A pull isn't to be unexpected until it's right.

Hope that helps ya out man, and good luck!

lakeguy77

You can try some camber bolts like the Eibach ones. I've also read that reversing the GT500 mounts so the arrows point in instead of out will get you a little less negative as well, but I've only seen this in one spot (AM's review section of the GT500 mounts) so not sure how valid this is.

lakeguy77

I also concur with houtex that you need less Camber, NOT toe.

Wild5.0

Wow nice write up thanks, I figured it had to be the camber. And yeah for sure nothing is bent. I find it hard to replace the top strut mount since I just bought the gt500 mounts. : /

Wild5.0

Yeah i heard about reversing the mounts. Thanks ill look into that.

houtex

I know that feel, man. Which is why I bought the Eibach camber bolts with everything else. But that caster... I dunno, seems like it could be contributing to the pull maybe?

You can always sell those GT500 mounts. Gently used and all that, right? Right. People will jump upon them, probably, with a lil' discount, and recoup some loss... Hopefully the spin will fix it, I know that's what I'm trying if my camber goes whack before I do the bolts.

lakeguy77

That I wouldn't be too concerned about. Things like the subframe sitting a little off center on the bolt holes on one side will create that, and lowering will then exaggerate the numbers on the alignment sheet.

*lurking*

lakeguy77

One thing you can also try, loosen the 4 top bolts holding the strut mount to the body, and make sure they're shifted in their holes all the way to the "outside" of the car...meaning the driver's side one is shifted as far to the driver's side as possible. It'll only get you a fraction of a degree, but really, you're only fractions of a degree from being within spec. Could use the same technique but pulling them forward/back to correct for some of the caster difference. Again, we're talking fractions of a degree.