y5e06

While browsing a few threads I've read a few times that, on stock cars, camber is not adjustable. Is that correct? I know you can buy CC plates and camber bolts. But, I didn't realize that camber is not adjustable at all on these cars without those. Is that factual?

I'm considering getting some P-Springs and perhaps the GT500 mounts, but I really don't want to spend the money on CC plates. I'm just trying to improve my Daily Driver with minimal costs, not build a track rat.

I would expect running lower springs would increase the camber. does anyone have any idea what it would change to if running P-springs w/o bolts or CC plates? Camber bolts are cheap enough, and I'd probably run those if I need to. Only looking to run a hair over 1deg neg camber.

Ltngdrvr

Correct, no adjustment in the stock setup.

Why not just use the camber bolts when adding the lowering springs?

Simple deal and doesn't cost much.

Glenn

I would get the bolts and be sure to tell the alignment shop you have them. Let them know what you want your camber set at.

y5e06

yeah, if no factory adjustment then that would be the plan.

I have a friend that is a non-ford dealer mechanic. We can go there after hours and put the car on the rack and play w/ the numbers until they're right.

but for argument's sake. what would the camber be without bolts or plates but running the P springs and expected 1" drop?
I have a TP car and I have no idea what the factory numbers are either.

devildog1679

That is a fact. I'm lowered on Steeda Sport Springs which is about the same drop as P springs. I don't have Camber plate or bolts and my Camber is at -1.6 left and -1.8 right. I have ran with these setting for about 2 years both on track and off track with abnormal wear. I just make sure to rotate every 2K miles and my driving is not all highway so my shoulders do get a workout.

devildog1679

For DD then I would go this route. If you trackt he car often I would stay away from camber bolts (a.k.a crash bolts).

Ltngdrvr

You'd just have to check it after install, camber can be a little off from the factory, off side to side, they just go by a range of acceptable camber.

With the bolts, I would try to dial the camber in at negative .8 to -1.0.

y5e06

I've read a few times where folks say basically, if using P springs then I can probably get away without new mounts. However, I haven't seen any numbers comparing stock vs modified for any of the setups.
browsing around I reread the vorschlag blog and noted they posted their bone stock BBP car's alignment. Now shown below.
basically they had just under -0.6deg camber stock with an allowance of 0 to -1.5 (which seems like a lot for a street car)
My target for a daily driver is -1, mostly for the sake of not destroying my tires due to lots of highway. but perhaps I could get away w/ stock mounts. (been browsing, I like the Steeda HDs and ground controls street plates too)
http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=17

SoFlaBoss

IMO, in your situation, I would just go with the factory mounts. You can always go with camber bolts later, if you don't like the resulting camber. However, I've used camber bolts in the past and there's a couple things I didn't like about them, which are the fact that they are not as thick as the factory bolts and likely not as strong, and many of the technicians doing the alignments with them don't know how to properly adjust them. The camber bolts will work, if used properly.

As you already know, I have the Steeda HD Strut Mounts on my 2013. I currently have the camber adjusted to -1.1 on each side, which IMO is perfect for the street.

tj@steeda

Car looks great ... and than you for bringing it out!

Shoot me an email at tim@steeda if I can help answer or put you in contact with one of our sales/installers.

Best Regards,

TJ