For 2011 Mustang Gt 6. Speed that will only see street- no track time. Which brand and type should I go with? Looking to cure the wheel hop issue. Already have the Eibach pro kit- springs/ front/ rear bars.

Thanks

 

The lca will not cure wheel hop,the uca will do that,using both will be even more beneficial.I did a roush uca(anti wheel hop kit) with gt500 lca,s= Zero hop!

 

So you are saying that the uppers are the key to the hop? I already have the GT500 LCAs because I have the Track Pack.

 

You should get the bobs auto sports LCAs and BMR UCA don't let anyone tell you different. Your wheel hop will be gone and your car will be good. Also they won't increase your NVH. Roush aren't bad either for their lower and upper if your keeping your power level stock. For a shelby like what I have I needed poly bushings because the rubber have too much play and bend easy under hard launching.

 

Yes the uppers are the key to getting rid of wheel hop!!

 

xxxx

 

Since you are lowered, I would just start with a good set of LCAs and brackets. I have zero wheel hop with the stock UCA.

 

I really wish people would stop stating that they have GT500 LCA's. No offense Steve, I have read it several times, and not to sound like a ***** but they are the same LCA's as the Boss, and they can pound sand to use a nice expression. The stock stamped steel LCA's regardless of the thicker/denser bushing just blow.
That being said, I would take a look at the FRPP tubular LCA's that are about 170, or you could check out WhiteLine LCA's which is what I will be putting on my car.
And if I am not mistaken there have been people here that say LCA's can cure wheel hop, if you get quality ones, UCA's can cure it, both, neither, so no need to yell Pony.

 

The FRPP LCA are the ones used on the GT500.

 

STEEDA

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...trol-arms.html

http://www.steeda.com/store/2011-up-...sis-mount.html

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...ntrol-arm.html

 

and just to add a little more confussion I thought the only thing needed is relocation brackets to cure the wheel hop. But I would call a place like steeda and ask them.

 

Wheel hop is not a one size fits all situation and can be approached in different ways to be resolved.

Depending on your horsepower level and how you drive you car, you may get wheel hop or you might not.

The most common cause of wheel hop is typically the deflection that occurs from soft bushings and flexing of the trailing arms themselves. However some have reported that just doing springs got rid of wheel hop. The reason for that is the change in geometry that occurs when you lower the car.

In simple terms, lowering the car changes your rear suspension geometry and reduces weight transfer. If you have stock control arms and you are reducing weight transfer you are reducing the loads on the suspension that produce the suspension deflection associated with wheel hop, hence wheel hop tends to go away.

However the underlying cause is really the rear trailing arms and their soft bushings. Whenever we get a customer on the phone trying to resolve a wheel hop issue I immediately suggest a set of rear lower arms. For most people this alone will take care of 90 to 100% of their wheel hop issues.

Higher horsepower and aggressive driving styles can still leave room for some wheel hop if you still have the stock upper 3rd link and bushings. Replacing the upper 3rd link after the lowers are done or doing both at the same time will eliminate wheel hop completely at any power level for a street car on street tires/drag radials. If you regularly drive on slicks you will have to compromise on your bushing choice and move away from full urethane to a urethane/spherical bushing combination if you want longevity. Bushing failure can become an issue with slicks/high rpm launches and you will also introduce significant NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) into the vehicle.

The Steeda LCAs http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...trol-arms.html should take care of you issue.

With a design, engineering, manufacturing, order fulfillment, sales and marketing, and World Headquarters based in an extensive campus located in Pompano Beach, Florida, Steeda Autosports is the largest privately owned Ford performance based operation in the world.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

I realize this, what I was getting at is some posters seem to use this as a defense of the ****ty LCA. Just like if I said, well my car has the same crappy component as the 302S. Just because its on a more expensive/race car doesn't mean it is worth anything if its ****.

 

I will be pulling off slightly used bmr billet lca and bmr Uca and Uca bracket mid march. They will be sold at a huge discount.

 

I'll be waiting for that MJJ

 

Any reason?

 

Every now and then I get a some nvh when going over a large bump.

Most people would be fine with it but I am old and wussified to the point that I am willing to trade off some performance with stock like nvh. So I am swapping out for the roush Uca and lca.

I don't race the car on the track or the strip so I am confident the roush set up will be fine for me.

 

I recommend Steeda billet aluminum rear lower control arms. This will eliminate nearly 100% of wheel hop when driving aggressively. You will definitely see an improvement over the stock LCA. That being said you can still have wheel hop in wet roads when driving aggressively. I plan on getting the Steeda adjustable Upper control arm to fully eliminate wheel hop.

There is no increase in NVH when you apply all the provided grease on the polyutherane bushings. I'm really satisfied with it. If you are lowered it is suggested to have relocation brackets welded in for the LCAs.

 

Ha ha, gotcha, thanks. I too am looking for the best performance I can get with as little NVH as possible. Thinking Whiteline but fielding suggestions.

 

White line has very good stuff. Roush is great but if you have your car dropped more than 1 inch you should look to and adjustable Uca. Roush is not.