It doesn't even look like the Ford Racing kit for the 13-14 is available. I would think that would be a better kit even though it is much more expensive.

 

I like the Ford Racing kit because it's in a stock location and proven. I like the JLT because it's cost effective and I can get the blacked out inlets so you won't tell it's there really. But then again I will have to cut holes in my car versus using space that isn't being used and it's reversable. It probably won't ever be reversed but the option is nice to have.

 

I was having to manage the weight of the car the whole time. It was always on my mind. I guess this is a good thing so when my car doesn't dip and lift with better suspension I will still be in the habit of thinking about the weight transfer and not just making the corner.

 

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^ This is my plan for my next track day in May. So...knowing all that we know now regarding TC/SC chewing up rear brakes on the track...I have a question. With TC/SC fully off, do you think I will still need to remove the rear dust shields? I'd rather not if I don't need to. Thoughts...?

 

I'm going to think about it when I get around to the rear brakes. Until then they are staying. I will try without the TC on and see if it makes a difference.

 

This is what gave me the idea of using the fog light housings. Another track rat at work. DMichaels.

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...ustang-524860/

 

Great point. It's important to learn good habit like weight transfer and friction circle management. I also plan to get suspension upgrades, but I want to make sure I have a great handle on the dynamics of my car while stock before I upgrade.
Last year I got a great handle of weight transfer. I noticed that if I went "hot" into a 110deg corner coming off the main straight the car would over-steer just before the apex. At first my reaction was to counter steer, which caused me to loose momentum and take a wider line than I initially intended. On later laps I realised that if roll onto the throttle 25% at that moment, I transfer the weight to the back, my tires bite down, and I come out of the corner on a better line with more speed. That once corner alone helped me shave 0.5s off my lap thanks to better weight transfer management

I don't think you have to. Ford racing does recommend it though, so it's really your choice.
My advice would be to get some solid rear pads which can take more heat than the ~800 or so degrees the stock pads are good for. I'm very excited to put Carbotech XP8s in the back and rest assured that I can safety go up to 1350F before the pads cook. The person at Carbotech I spoke with said that with XP8s and system off I should not even approach the 1350 mark in the back unless there is a mechanical problem. So my plan is to leave the dust shields in, but upgrade the pads to handle more heat. I worry about rocks and stones getting in there with the shields off.

I wish they made Ford Racing cooling shields for the back.

 

Missed this thread the past couple days... I have a few bits of input:

1. Rear brake cooling - I rigged up rear cooling late last season. It seemed to work fairly well, although I also had a bend axle all season, so I'm expecting better rear brake temps this season now that I have a near right rear axle. But some pictures of the rear brake cooling "beta" setup I have are below. At the inlet I do have a scoop I'd like to note

 

In regards to the point made by Tod about TC in sport mode - yes, that absolutely destroys the rear pads. I can't drive in Sport mode anymore (at the track) as it interferes far too much, pulsing the rear brakes excessively. I do use it in the wet though since the car is so tail happy...

But I do recommend traction control fully off, and then you should have no rear brake issues. I'm about the only Mustang guy I've seen that had chronic rear brake issues, but as noted above, I think I finally figured out root cause. The stupid bent axle... Anxious to get out and try the car with straight axles on April 6th!

I've also got a set of Carbotech pads (actually a couple sets that I sourced for cheap) that will be tried out this year. Swapping front pads is no big deal, but the rears really are a huge pain, so I like to keep a pad compound like the XP8 so there is no need to swap for daily driving.

 

No you're not the only one who has experienced rear brake problems at the track. I too have had rear brake issues. Cooked my rear brakes 2 track sessions ago as well as boiling the brake fluid.
I had been running with the traction control off but not fully defeated.
Since those track days, I have upgraded my brake pads to carbotech Xp-10/8, Ford racing brake cooling ducts, and motul 600 racing brake fluid.
I will put all that new stuff to use in the first week of April at the track.

 

Brake cooling ducts for the front with XP20's and XP10 rears was an experience this past weekend. No brake issues what so ever, however I finally got diff puke, not sure if that was a function of the better brakes causing more heat in the diff or not.

 

Takes a while to get it all sorted out. That's part of the "fun". Glad they worked out well.

 

Probably just a result of driving harder since the brakes held up. Next weakest link

Put some sort of catch can on the diff housing instead of the pressure relief valve and that should keep the diff from spewing fluid

Then it's on to the next weakest link! Fortunately the cars seem robust overall but there are certainly areas for improvement.

 

I haven't experienced this yet. I will eventually I'm guessing. Which catch can is the question.

 

I think a lot of guys use the Bob's Autosport KR style breather, JLT also just came out with one that is a similar design.

 

I've heard that guys have problems with one of those two after being lowered because of clearances up there. I can't remember which one though.

 

I would think it's the JLT, I like the design of the Bob's better to since it uses two arms instead of one.

 

I made my own with a fuel filter rigged up. Not ideal but it works. I've had no clearance issues with my car being lowered on SR springs

 

Revisiting this, friends. Had my track day yesterday, and all went great. However, I did not do what I said I would do. I did try TC/SC all the way off...hated it. Went back to Sport Mode, call me a baby, but I am much faster in Sport Mode. Also, I performed a rear brake upgrade two weeks ago. You can read all about it in my newly posted thread on TMS: https://themustangsource.com/forums/...8/#post6926383
To summarize, I installed 2014 GT500 rear rotors (13.8" compared to our GT/Boss 11.8"). I re-used my existing calipers, pads, and dust shields. Very economical upgrade, brakes stayed strong all day at the track. I think I've finally got this rear brake issue fixed (I hope!!).

 

Hey Pete, how and in what mode you drive is completely up to you. There are no trophy's for track days, there is no medals, and if we do things right we get to keep the car shiny side up and drive it home in the same condition we started. By all means, drive in whatever mode makes you comfortable.

I work for a company which makes brake modulation systems, and we work with OEMs to offer "tack mode" or "sport mode" tuning for stability and traction control. I'm glad to hear that people like it and use it the way it was intended

Glad you got a chance to enjoy a great track day, and your braking performance was all there