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2011-2014 GT/Boss rear brake upgrade

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Old 5/18/15, 12:55 PM
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2011-2014 GT/Boss rear brake upgrade

For those of you with a 2011-2014 GT/Boss, who occasionally track your car (like me), and who seem to be overheating the stock small (11.8") rear rotors, I think I found a great cost-effective OEM solution. I discovered that the 2013-2014 GT500 uses the same (1) calipers; (2) pads; & (3) dust shields as our 2011-2014 GT/Boss. Yet that car uses a 13.8" rotor, to better dissipate the heat. So, I ordered two rotors, and two relocation brackets, for a 2014 GT500 (images, prices $, and part #s below). My Ford Performance Manager confirmed all of this for me, and completed the installation. Results? I had my first track day with this new set-up, and...excellent. Even with TC/SC in Sport Mode, the brakes stayed strong all day. No overheating, no old-familiar-burning metal smell, the rear rotors did not get scored, no brake pad deposits left on the rotors. It appears that the fronts (14" Brembo 4-pots) came out cleaner than in past track days...perhaps the brake bias with more power and cooling in the rear helps the fronts, too...? Here's the details:
* 2014 GT500 rotor, Ford part # DR3Z-2C026-A, $76 each.
* 2014 GT500 caliper relocation bracket, Right side, DR3Z-2C100-A, $61.
* 2014 GT500 caliper relocation bracket, Left side, DR3Z-2C101-A, $61.
I ordered my parts from Tasca Parts (www.tascaparts.com), they gave me great service and prices.
Remember, I re-used my stock OEM 2011 GT calipers, pads, and dust shields, perfect fit, no problem, save $$. This only requires the rotors and the relocation brackets. Me being cheap and thrifty made this a pretty fair upgrade, IMO. If this has been posted before by someone else, sorry, I could not find it on TMS. I hope this is helpful to other track rats. Good luck and let me know your particular story.






Old 5/18/15, 01:03 PM
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Good info...should be easy enough to install at home.
Old 5/18/15, 01:05 PM
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Good choice. I did that 2 1/2years ago. In addition to the parts you bought, i replaced the bolts as per Ford's recommendation.
While the calipers are looking the same, they are slightly different. The bracket where the caliper slides on is slightly differently curved. I had to file down some metal at the end, in order to prevent the rotor from hitting it, when the rear brakes become hot and expand. See picture.
I even have a written install guide...

LEXiiON
Attached Thumbnails 2011-2014 GT/Boss rear brake upgrade-2013-02-12-20.02.26.jpg  
Old 5/18/15, 01:07 PM
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Thanks, LEXiiON. I've had no rubbing so far (fingers crossed!).
Old 5/18/15, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by PJRManagement
Thanks, LEXiiON. I've had no rubbing so far (fingers crossed!).
Keep an eye on it... I had two little marks on it from the disc. It's not a lot you have to file down and maybe the tolerances are different from caliper to caliper, but look for metal shavings... or look at the top of the rotor if you see it blank then use the file and enlarge the curve a little bit..

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Old 5/18/15, 01:13 PM
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Did this require taking out the axles?

Glad to hear your brake performance is all there!
Old 5/18/15, 01:15 PM
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It does. I can post the install instructions later today. They are on my computer at home.

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Last edited by LEXiiON; 5/18/15 at 01:17 PM.
Old 5/18/15, 01:27 PM
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Yes, 5.Monster, you must remove the diff cover, drain, and remove both axles. Too complicated for me, I had my Ford Performance group do the install for me. But, if you're comfortable with it, it should be no problem.
Old 5/18/15, 04:31 PM
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Here are the install instructions...

LEXiiON
Old 5/18/15, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by LEXiiON
Here are the install instructions...

LEXiiON
---
Great job, thanks, LEXiiON. I hope this helps others. As a reminder, IMO, the stock brakes on the 2011-2014 GT are fine for street use...no issues there. But, since I track my car a few times per year, I needed to get rid of the rear brake over-heating issue. If any other track rats are experiencing the similar rear brake issue, this may be your ticket for a good OEM fix, while still using your stock calipers, dust shields, and pads. I know I liked spending only $300 in parts for this set-up versus $600 for the entire kit. Can't argue with the great result, either. Good luck, shoot any questions my way.
Old 5/18/15, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by LEXiiON
Here are the install instructions...

LEXiiON
Originally Posted by PJRManagement
---
Great job, thanks, LEXiiON. I hope this helps others. As a reminder, IMO, the stock brakes on the 2011-2014 GT are fine for street use...no issues there. But, since I track my car a few times per year, I needed to get rid of the rear brake over-heating issue. If any other track rats are experiencing the similar rear brake issue, this may be your ticket for a good OEM fix, while still using your stock calipers, dust shields, and pads. I know I liked spending only $300 in parts for this set-up versus $600 for the entire kit. Can't argue with the great result, either. Good luck, shoot any questions my way.
Thanks Pete, thanks LEXiiON, good info here.

I guess I'm lucky enough not to have rear overheating issues. But I drive in system off, so no ESP/TCS activity. I road course my car as well, and have had some brake bias issues, but using XP8s in the rear (which now reside there for DD duty as well) and XP10 pads up front, along with SS lines, RBF 600 fluid and GT500 cooling shields I've been 100% satisfied with my brake performance. I was even able to out-brake lighter cars at my last even. Felt awesome to start braking at the 3 marker consistently and reliably lap after lap for a change, and still with room to spare

With that said I know there is still room for improvement, and this is a great way to go. Larger diameter brake rotor = more torque at same brake pressure, and more mass gives better thermal capacity as you have mentioned. If I get to the point where I have issues with rear brakes, I know where to look for the solution!
Old 5/18/15, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER
Thanks Pete, thanks LEXiiON, good info here.

I guess I'm lucky enough not to have rear overheating issues. But I drive in system off, so no ESP/TCS activity. I road course my car as well, and have had some brake bias issues, but using XP8s in the rear (which now reside there for DD duty as well) and XP10 pads up front, along with SS lines, RBF 600 fluid and GT500 cooling shields I've been 100% satisfied with my brake performance. I was even able to out-brake lighter cars at my last even. Felt awesome to start braking at the 3 marker consistently and reliably lap after lap for a change, and still with room to spare

With that said I know there is still room for improvement, and this is a great way to go. Larger diameter brake rotor = more torque at same brake pressure, and more mass gives better thermal capacity as you have mentioned. If I get to the point where I have issues with rear brakes, I know where to look for the solution!
ncmustangparts (just Google it, you will find his store on Ebay) is selling adapters, that will just move the caliper farther out. No need for the OE adapter plates and axle removal. May be a solution for folks that do not want to do all the additional work.
When I did it, nothing like that was available, so I had to do the OE route..

LEXiiON
Old 5/18/15, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by LEXiiON
ncmustangparts (just Google it, you will find his store on Ebay) is selling adapters, that will just move the caliper farther out. No need for the OE adapter plates and axle removal. May be a solution for folks that do not want to do all the additional work.
When I did it, nothing like that was available, so I had to do the OE route..

LEXiiON
Those are what I recently put on. I'll have the car out next Thursday with the new setup to test things out.

Looks great though and your OEM GT500 brackets are nice and bullet proof. For anyone interested, there is a big thread on this subject over on BMO as well

I need to snap a few pics of my brake cooling setup for the rear which looks like it will work wonderfully with the new larger rotors

Glad they worked out well for you so far!

One question - the track you were at for testing them out - is it the same track you have experience at with OEM 11.8" rotors overheating? Just wanted to make sure apples to apples comparison.
Old 5/18/15, 08:13 PM
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Nice job PJR and LeXi for the write up and the information. Do you know what the fifferenc would be in this and the relocation brackets. I just saw another thread here tat they installed those?
Old 5/18/15, 08:16 PM
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The difference is the bracket. The OEM uses a bigger adapter plate, the other solution uses bolt on adapters on the existing adapter plate. The result is the same.
LEXiiON
Old 5/18/15, 08:39 PM
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I have all the parts to do this in my garage.
My last track day I smoked my rear brakes even with the whole advanced track all the way off!
So I can't wait to put my parts on!
Side note, what diff fluid should I run with the track pack torsen diff?
Old 5/18/15, 08:43 PM
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5.Monster - I tried my first session with TC/SC all the way off. Took it easy, too. But I could not get the car to hook up out of turns, especially with up/down undulation changes on the road course (which my track has a lot of). I even spun 360 (embarrassing!). So I went back to Sport Mode, and was back to my comfort zone, and much, much faster, too. I'm a baby with my blanket, I guess!
---
5.Monster - Your pads, fluid, and steel lines sound good. I, too, have upgraded pads, fluid, and steel lines, so I'm in that boat, also. Again, IMO not needed for street use, but almost a requirement for track duty.
---
LEXiiON - I considered a bracket-only option, but voted against it. I would not feel comfortable trusting a unique bracket design that is not made by Ford for this set-up. With the GT500 relocation brackets, I'm assured this will hold up to anything.
---
dmichaels - I agree, 'bullet proof'.
---
dmichaels - Same track, same configuration, hot day, apples-to-apples, for sure.
---
Jazzman442 - Let me see if I understand your question correctly...with my set-up, I used the 2014 GT500 OEM relocation brackets, this is used to mount the caliper to the wheel hub. The GT/Boss bracket is slightly different, due to the diameter of the rotor (11.8" versus 13.8"). This upgrade does require either: (a) the OEM relo bracket; or (b) a bolt-on adapter to the existing bracket. I went with (a).
---
James - just saw your post...that was me every track day, my rears would not hold up. Fronts...great. Rears...not so much. As for diff fluid, I really don't know. Do you have a good Ford dealer you can check with? My dealer has a Performance Division made for this kind of stuff.

Last edited by PJRManagement; 5/18/15 at 08:46 PM.
Old 5/18/15, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by PJRManagement
---
LEXiiON - I considered a bracket-only option, but voted against it. I would not feel comfortable trusting a unique bracket design that is not made by Ford for this set-up. With the GT500 relocation brackets, I'm assured this will hold up to anything.
---
I agree.. A little bit more hassle, but better safe than sorry.

LEXiiON
Old 5/19/15, 06:43 AM
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Awesome thread!
Old 5/19/15, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by PJRManagement
dmichaels - Same track, same configuration, hot day, apples-to-apples, for sure.
Figured, but had to ask to be sure! That said, sounds like it is working out great. I'm anxious to try mine out next week.

I agree on some reservations on the aftermarket bracket, but I'll be keeping a close eye on the brake setup as I always do. There are a number of guys who have been tracking their cars with the setup, so the brackets are getting hours on them. If I see any issues, I'll do the same swap to the GT500 OEM brackets. They are quite reasonable after all!

Enjoy your setup - hope it keeps working well. I'll report back after I put some time on mine as well.


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