I had to use the gas pedal to get over a lane, and I was tire hopping in second gear. Really sucks! What can be done without spending big bucks and without having to drill any holes.


Dave

 

$279

Combined with a good set of stiff shocks, an upgraded panhard bar and stiffer springs will really make the difference.


Or just combine this package with beefier control arms.



Its $899


http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html


Although to be honest I thought the Boss 302 package had a pretty well sorted out rear suspension.

 

Hmm... I thought all that was needed was the Steeda upper control arm:

Need to reduce wheel hop and improve traction?
Steeda's upper 3rd links will do the job. The Steeda adjustable upper 3rd link for S197 Mustangs gives you the ability to set your pinion angle and eliminate the torque deflection associated with the factory piece. This upper 3rd link uses our track proven three piece bushing package using soft outer bushings a hard center bushing on the axle end. This proven combination helps control axle wind up, wheel hop under acceleration, and allows for proper articulation without deflection for improved handling and cornering stability. Steeda's three piece bushing package will not increase NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) keeping the factory's quiet, smooth operation unlike competitor's pieces. Direct replacement for the factory original bolting into the original factory location. Our 3rd link is a double adjustable design allowing you to make adjustments without removing the arm from the vehicle.

Product Benefits
Adjustable pinion angle for optimum traction
Better handling with more stable cornering Three piece urethane bushings for better traction
Competition tested & proven

Our Price $179.95

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang...-arm-555-4112/

 

Do some research on wheel hop with the current gen Mustang's.
Replacing the upper control arm with an aftermarket unit & stiffer bushings is the answer to eliminate the wheel hop.

 

On my 06 GT a set of Steeda lower control arms took 99% of the hop away. I plan to find out what it will take on my 14 this spring, hoping its that simple again.

 

This is one of those instances where not every car is the same.

The adjustable upper should do the trick. The lowers and relocation brackets will only help with getting better traction.

Sometimes ... there is still hop after one is installed vs. the other ... then, we would recommend both.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

Correct me if I am wrong, I thought relo brackets should only be used once a car is lowered because if the car is at stock ride height and you increase the LCA angle toward the ground with relo brackets it could increase wheel hop.

 

Typically, yes. Although if you are trying to move your instant center more towards the back, so it hits the tires harder, then these work well too.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

what about rear wheel hop under heavy braking?

 

Sure it wasn't ABS chatter?

 

Do you have super aggressive pads and really soft rear springs or a TA?

 

disable traction control and try it again would be one way to maybe determine whether the ABS kicked in.

 

ABS still functions when nannies are fully off

 

I think what was meant was the brakes kicking in because of TC rather than ABS.

 

my boss wheel hops as well. you need both lower control arms and upper control arm combined. doing only lowers will likely just make noise with no noticeable gains.

get a good upper control arm thats adjustable, so you can correct pinion angle if you ever lower the vehicle.

 

yes thanks for that correction