Yup, and vette owners too

 

That was hilarious. I was left wondering how the guy could be so nice to that clown, then saw somebody else had posted a NSFW version -> http://youtu.be/ETmnennvBhM

 

Roflmao!

 

Guys, I'm a bit of a novice in some areas here. can you explain the process of the eccentric "camber" bolts. Is the camber easily changed from track to street?
Thanks for the help. What Camber measurement tool do you recommend? I've seen some homemade ones off the internet that appeard to function well. http://www.tomhoppe.com/index.php/20...-camber-gauge/ is this ill-advised?
I watched this video on the 06 Mustang. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIBFXe5SW8A. is it basically the same? This was an adjustable camber bolt, are there bolts with specificaly defined camber?

 

I've attached a photo of an eccentric camber bolt and the lower strut where the bolt is inserted in place of the factory bolt. It "tips" the wheel in toward the strut at the top. The alternative is to use camber plates at the top of the strut mount to tip in the entire strut. To be honest, that was the course I was planning to go but my dealer just did the bolt without really talking about it. Not a big deal becuase it works, but I still may do plates. They are about $350 so more money, but they also give you more adjustability. As far as adjusting back and forth from track to the street, you don't want to do that unless you're going to have the front end realigned every time. If you can do that yourself, no biggie, but I've found that your toe ends up moving and you'll wear your tires quickly on the street if you don't realign. The bottom pic is a set of caster/camber plates from Maximum Motorsports. They make them for the 2011+ Mustang and they are different from the 2005-2010 strut design.

 

Gary, great post with pictures!

Let me follow with some questions. To "increase" negative camber you need to lean the top of the tire inward toward the engine bay. I would assume since there are two bolts afixing the strut, one would install the lobed cam bolt into the lower bolt hole and clock the bolt to as to move the lower portion of the strut outward. Since the strut would pivot about the upper bolt, this would move the upper portion of the strut innward toward the engine bay and achieve more negative camber. The pictures of the interrupted cam bolt 14mm/12mm and un-interrupted cam bolt 17mm/15mm were great! Can both sizes be used in our application? From whom are they available?

With regard to the Camber plates, are these afixed to the top of the shock tower? It is not clear nor do I believe they are somehow bolted to the strut body where the two bolts are shown in your picture. With a singular hole in the camber plate, possibly for the strut/shock shaft to fit into and then be positioned at the top of the shock tower relative the the adjustable four plate mounting bolts.(?)

Thanks for helping us out. Appears others are seeing your experience as well.

 

Thanks Cloud! Your willingness to share your knowledge and experience is very much appreciated.
Are these the parts I'm Lookng for?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...justment-Bolts
This says +- 1 degree but other web sites with the same Eilbach part # say +- 1.75??

 

Camber plates are fixed to the top of the strut. They replace the factory upper strut mounts with a spring perch coupled to a bearing and two sliding plates. You install this to the strut assembly, then onto the vehicle like normal. When you want to adjust the camber, you get both front tires off of the ground, loosen the four nuts slightly at each strut tower, and then you can move the strut closer/farther from the engine bay as desired. Of course, don't forget to tighten the nuts back to factory spec when your desired adjustment is achieved! Plates are the way to go if you are going back and forth between street and track frequently, and using lots (-2* or more) of negative camber on-track.

The downsides to the camber plates are 1) increased NVH from the lack of rubber isolators between the strut and strut tower and 2) cost--cheapest you're getting in on an 11+ car is $340ish.

 

Guys, I'm new to the eccentric bolts so you've exhausted my knowledge. As far as the caster/camber plates, here's a writeup on American Muscle to install:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-4bo...9-install.html

 

Yes but shipping is cheaper from
Streetsideauto.com
And they came super fast!