Here you go

 

I'm not really sure why you guys don't use the factory tie down slots. The ones used to tie them down on the car carriers. Just need a mini 'J' hook or "T" hook to use, and no need to lay under the car to attach axle straps. Plus, it allows the car to move on it's own suspension while being trailered and not constantly straining against the straps.

 

Sounds logical, where are they located?

 

I already said that...

 

hear you go with the link. If you are spending big money on alignments this is the way to go. The front and rear tow hooks will be added also.

//www.boss302forum.com/index.php?/topic/13420-laguna-seca-trailer-tie-downs/

good luck.

 

Why not use a T-hook in the frame for up front? No chance of bending a control arm that way.

 

I have never used the J hook but looks like a great idea and no need to go under the car. Where do you purchase these go looking forged hooks ?

 

http://www.truckntow.com/pc-11282-147196-t-hook.aspx

 

Thanks,I am going to order these today.After all the years of towing race cars and installing tie down hooks this is the best idea I have looked at. This will work slick with my e-track. Thanks Yellow Boss

 

The T hook is all we have ever used on our classic cars and it is good to know they can be used on the new ones as well.

 

Where is the T hook attachment/slot for the rear?

Dave

 

My service dept was nice enough to to make a copy of the towing specifications for me. The location MJockey posted are listed but unless you have a tie down track like Jim mentioned they are too far back for me. That is my opinion and I could be wrong. I just think the less length you have on the straps the better, if I used these it would be a long way to attach to the hooks on the front my 18' trailer.

For now I am using the LCA's, again my opinion but there no possibility of changing the alignment with a pair of straps. The forward T-Hooks (in the wheel well) will not work without a track in the trailer. On the rear I do the same as Gary posted, using axle straps and crossing them (but I have way less of an angle on them). Dave to answer your question the attached shows the rear T slots for rear tie downs.

Jim I would like to see some pics of your trailer tracks.

 

Here is the link to the e-track system.http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Van-Tr...FaZx5QodWSPwZA

I use standard heavy duty straps with hooks on both ends and the heavy duty d-rings in the e- track , This makes it simple.I have also put e-track in the bed of my pick up to hold the golf when go to the track. When I had my Panoz I used extra d-rings to change the purchase point for a good angle. Good luck

 

Looks like I need to check back into this thread again soon.

 

Just ordered these, thanks for the tip!

 

I have five brand new t hooks that I would like to sell. $ 30.00 for all and I will pay the shipping in the US. PM me if you want them.

 

Sorry, the order has shipped already. Thanks for the offer though.

 

I use two axle straps on the rear of the k-member. It is a point just behind where the rear most point of the LCA attaches to the k-member. This keeps the straps low and out of the low front splitter. I do not criss cross the front straps.

I also have stacked two 2x12's making a "ramp" if you will. The bottom 2x12 is 4' in length and the top one is 18" in length. I then used two carriage bolts to attach each ramp to the trailer floor. This gives me the extra room I need to get my fat **** able to reach under the car to secure it. It also helps to keep the straps out of the splitter.

I do like the idea of the "J" hook for the rear. I hate having to work around the sway bar and panhard bar to get to the axle housing. I do criss cross the rear straps when I tie the car down.

 

I'm going to use t hooks up front and full tilt boogie rear tie down eyes on the rear axle

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/FT%20950.htm

May be a little easier than wrapping axle straps

 

It may be easier, but I'm not so sure that I would trust them to be stronger than the straps. Thats alot of weight to hold back on such a small connecting point and threads. Do the eyebolts get threaded in or is there a nut on the other side? Anyway, in the event of an accident I feel that the eyebolts can shear off. Eye bolts are designed for straight pulling tension. When you tie the car down you will be pulling on an angle. May not be a bad idea to weld them in. Just a thought.