Just curious to see what specs people have been running after installing caster camber plates in the front.

I purchased the MM plates....

 

For autocross in my '11 GT on KW V3's with MM plates I'm running the following:

Camber: -2.7
Caster: 7
Toe: 1/8" out

The car turns in like a go-kart.

 

See this thread

 

I've talked to Gary about what he is running...

I just wanted to see if anyone else out there besides him is actually tracking the car and making minor adjustments or noticing anything. I want to hear feedback from peoples experiences. We all should learn together...

But thank you for the link

 

Exactly "all the way inboard" degrees at the track, and "all the way outboard" degrees on the street.

 

Running 2.2 negative camber, about zero toe, OEM caster. Street and track (very few street miles to date.)

 

I've got MM plates with -2.4 camber, 0 toe, and factory caster.
Had them installed by the same dealer and technician that installed Gary's.
Three days on track and about 2,000 total miles. Seems to drive fine.
MM plates were installed before first track day, so I can't compare before/after.
I'll go to a softer tire compound next, so I'll leave -2.4 set until I wear out my next set of tires.
Gary told me to set them as far as they'll go. My strut posts are not touching the edge of the hole, but pretty close.

 

What exactly do you mean here....? I am thinking camber....

I talked to Ford Racing and they recommended as much positive caster as you can get. Top of strut pushed rear ward...

I am going to try the following setup:

Camber: -2.5
Toe: out .5
Caster: as much as I can get

 

Inboard would be negative camber, outboard would be less negative camber. Pretty sure that at stock ride height you can only get back to factory camber settings with aftermarket plates in their full outboard settings (ie: max positive camber allowed).

I'm running -2.5 camber (limited by the strut tower opening), zero toe and +6.7* caster (lots of room for more caster if needed... LOTS). I'm working on a thicker upper strut plate which will allow the strut nut to go under the tower gaining more clearance for additional negative camber. Car feels really good with stock caster... good steering response. Not sure I want to go any further positive. I might try a little more toe-out, but even turn-in feels really good with it at zero. Once I get the square setup dialed in, then I'll start playing with alignment some more.

 

FWIW I bumped my camber to -2.2 to -2.7 last week to run last weekend. Got rained out so only had two practice sessions on Friday afternoon to test it. I didn't get any tire temps but it felt good. I'm going back this Saturday for probably the final track day of the season and will check tire temps and lap times to see if it makes any difference. I roasted the shoulders of my R6s at -2.2 so that's the main reason for the change. I'm planning to finish off a set of Nittos this Saturday and they're a 285 vs the 265 R6 so will be interesting to see how it feels/wears.

 

I was speaking of Camber, but yes, for Caster just shove the plates all the way towards the rear of the car, tighten em down, and forget that adjustment exists.

 

For toe - is that a 1/2 degree or .5"? I'm hoping degrees.

 

I meant camber not caster......

 

Degrees..... Getting a little nervous for this weekend.......???

 

Always a little nervous sitting in the passenger seat at VIR.

Without trackey, it's almost undrivable!!

 

Can't blame you. I'm nervous for you......

 

I started out conservative on mine with -1.8 (0 toe, factory caster). I wanted to keep the car fairly street-able and know I can increase when needed. Also I wanted to feel the difference in different setting as I go so I would know and understand the settings. I was going to add some more until yesterday when I was forced to run a new set of NT05 because someone discarded a razor blade in the pits at Homestead and I cut a front tire.

Here are some pics of a set of NT05's after one day with no camber. Then some pics of taller but still NT05's after three dry session and 4 wet sessions. Big difference.

right front before camber

left front before camber


After camber at -1.8