the clutch pedal sticking and making the 3-4 shift hard has nothing to do with the driver. Neither does the crunch many people are experiencing. It seems to be hit or miss as to what cars have the issue. i guess we could blame lack of QC at the plant that makes the transmission for some of the problem.

 

Time for straight from the Horse's mouth:

ok rehash of correct info:
The Boss S has the GT-500 TR-6060 not the MT-82 that the street Boss and Boss LS have.

We have swapped out several (Boss S) Customers 6060's for Boss R1 boxes. The reason for the R1 boxes was gear ratios, not durability.

The ratios in the R1 box are closer and better suited to road course duty (and of course the box is a SOLID piece).

To date we have not any customer break a stock 6060 from a Boss S and we have not had any customers break an MT-82 from a street boss either

 

The 302R uses a remote mount filter and air-to-oil cooler with massive AN-12 Lines.

They were using AN10, but found another nice cooling drop by slowing the oil down with AN12.

I'm looking to build a setup like that, although I might only go as far as AN10 since I street the car mostly.

 

I did encounter a sticky clutch on day but it came and went and so far (fingers crossed) I've been happy with the stock transmission in my street Boss.

 

Will definitely be following this plus any on-track data you can provide.

 

if your running on track you should not run any coolant period.
so save the money and run all water until it gets to cold and you have to use antifreeze for street use.

If you have a boilover leak, blown etc, you will destroy the track surface. all sanctioning bodies mandate you take it out anyway.

 

Will this have any negative effect on the street? I have never run straight water since I understood the coolant has an effect on cooling the car not just freezing protection. Will there be any corrosion effect with the system used on the Boss?

no there are 7,000 posts about this out there so I never started one. I have replied in some thread here and there. Mine has now locked me out of 5th five times on the track and 3 going up and 4 down give me some problems (the 4th may be more me then the trans). While second does not feel smooth it has not locked me out.

I have not had any issue at all.

 

Thanks for the info and squishing the second hand rumors.

 

While I agree, here at 7000 ft, freezing comes faster and longer then you can imagine. We lost a couple of motors on cars last year because we had a freeze without time to prepare. (not my cars)

Coolant is permitted in HPDE, lapping days and NASA Time Trials. As such, I'll keep it in my car until such time I move back to Tejas.

 

I know coolant is perimitted in HPDE (but I strongly feel that it shouldnt be) it is a saftey hazard to everyone on track.....
It really sucks swicthing back and forth (I'm in MI so I have to switch)

 

There you go, straight from the source! Thank you for straightening everything. My good friend told me he had the 302r installed because the stock 302s transmission was not holding up so I don't know.... I am not sure if you would know this answer but why would the stock 302s even come with the TR-6060 if the Boss R1 box is not only stronger but also better geared for the road course? I mean the car is a non street legal race car......

By the way Shaun I have left two messages up there at Rehagen Racing and have not received a call back. Please PM me if you guys want some business from me.....

 

Can't wait to hear results John. I just offloaded the Boss in the midst of some Porsche smugness at BIR. First comment from the guy next to me was that looks a little funny for a Porsche. I said it's a little big for a Porsche. He said it's a little big for a car. Game on. 84 for a high tomorrow and sunny. I don't think she'll let me down. 53 Porsches and 1 Ford Should be fun.

 

Go get 'em. Hopefully you brought along your video crew to document you passing a GT3 RS.

 

Oh I wish I could be there to watch! Your Boss is going to have to crap after eating that many Porsche's...

It's times like these that you need a big vinyl American Flag to put on the roof!

 

M-8005-MGT is installed. Started at 4:30 and was in the house, showered and eating dinner by 7. Figure a tick over 2 hours from wheels up to closing the garage door.

Tools needed:

Floor Jack
Jack Stands (4)
3 gallon bucket
Channel Locks
10mm open end wrench (speed wrench is best)
7mm socket
8mm socket
10mm socket
E6 inverted torx socket
ratchet (I used 1/4")
small screw driver
approximately 3 gallons of fluid (I used 2 gallons water, 2 bottles of water wetter and re-used / strained Ford Coolant for the remainder)

Steps:

1. Put car in the air (not covering that)
2. Move lower under panel covering oil filter to service position (8mm bolts)
3. Remove front portion of lower under panel (7mm bolts)
4. Loosen radiator drain plug and drain coolant into bucket
5. Remove radiator cap
6. Remove throttle body intake tube (10mm clamp)
7. Remove cold air filter box after removing MAF connection (pull red tab out and then pull connector out of MAF)
8. Remove snorkel which leads to cold air box
9. Remove front radiator cover (8 push pins removed with screwdriver)
10. Remove line from coolant reservoir to radiator (channel locks x 2 clamps)
11. Remove coolant reservoir (10mm bolts x 2) once it is empty and fold back onto intake
12. Remove 2 lower nuts holding condenser to radiator (10mm open wrench... tight fit)
13. Remove upper radiator mounts (2x 10mm each mount)
14. Push top of radiator towards motor and remove top bolts holding condenser to radiator (2x10mm)
15. Using a small screwdriver, slide the blade into the fan connector from the end facing the center of the engine compartment. You should feel the tab with the blade. Depress and release the plug.
16. Remove upper radiator hose at the radiator using channel locks
17. Remove lower radiator hose at radiator using channel locks. Ford installs this clamp with the tabs facing the frame rail. I started from under the car, rotated the clamp and then finished from the top of the car.
18. Pull radiator out. Sounds easy, but I found I had to lift the driver's side up to get past all of the fan connections

Once out of the car, take the red caps which are used for shipping the M-8005-MGT radiator and place them on the OEM radiator to keep fluid from going all over the place. Once the caps are on, lay the radiator on the floor with the fan side up.

1. 2x10mm bolts to remove the fan. Slide fan off of the OEM radiator. Remove the speed nut tabs and transfer to the MGT radiator. Reinstall fan on MGT radiator

2. Flip the radiator over and transfer the two upper speed nut tabs to the MGT radiator.

3. Same side, using an inverted TORX E6 socket, remove the two studs for the lower condenser mounts, remove the two speed nut tabs and transfer all to the MGT radiator.

Radiator took some finagling to get back in. It is 3/4" deeper, and the aluminum frame has sharp bits. Just take your time and slowly work it down where it need to go. The hardest part here was getting the lower condenser mounts over the studs. Once that was done, make sure that the rubber gaskets are in place and then reassemble in reverse order.

Pretty sure there will still be air in the system, so bleed it and keep some fluid with you for a day or so.

John

PS - I'm writing this 1 hour after finishing up... plus a beer or two (or three). It really was pretty much drop-in and straight forward. I'll review this in the AM and see if I made any errors

PPS - Also, the MGT radiator shipped with the drain valve open. I've got a soggy shoe to prove it. Closed is with the petcock all the way out... check it before adding fluid :O

 

Wow, hell of a write up, looks like we all owe you a beer (or three)

 

I dunno if you're gonna get any good temperature data, probably won't even be able to get up to 100mph will all those rolling chicanes out there

 

Awesome man, thanks for the writeup. Sounds pretty straightforward...

 

awesome. I'm really debating on that mgt radiator + factory oil to water cooler

or

Factory radiator (or if you'd want to unload yours, haha) + air - oil cooler.

 

If not from him, you could get mine in a month or two...

Picking up the BOSS tomorrow afternoon