Track wheels?
Track wheels?
Do you have an additional set of wheels dedicated to the track? Are you running different than stock sizes? What kind of rubber?
I'd like to get a dedicated set of wheels for the track since the stock size tires are so **** expensive, but I'm not sure I'd be saving that much money overall.
I'd like to get a dedicated set of wheels for the track since the stock size tires are so **** expensive, but I'm not sure I'd be saving that much money overall.
I have the same except in 265/35 and 295/30 with the F14s in matte black. I got the lower profile for the track. They're a little short for the street.
Currently a Corvette Owner!



Joined: December 16, 2011
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 48
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Hey Lindsay. I have the same size wheels as you (19x9F, 19x10R). But I run 255/40 F and 285/35 R. I won't need new rubber for at least another 6-12 months. But I've wondered how going up one width size (like you did) will affect things...sidewall budge, NVH, street comfort vs. track performance, looks, etc. What can you tell me please? Do you have close-up pics?
Nt01 is an R compound, and I don't switch wheels for the track. So daily driving the NT01 they will heat cycle out cause they are R comps I believe. Otherwise no reason.
Correct. R compound tires get a certain amount of heat cycles to my knowledge. I don't have much experience with them, just the ps cups that came on my gt3 which lasted about 2500miles. But my buddy had r888 with plenty of depth but had no grip from being heat cycles too many times. The compound gets hard from heating up and cooling down
Correct. R compound tires get a certain amount of heat cycles to my knowledge. I don't have much experience with them, just the ps cups that came on my gt3 which lasted about 2500miles. But my buddy had r888 with plenty of depth but had no grip from being heat cycles too many times. The compound gets hard from heating up and cooling down
I'm using some cheap MB 18x9.5's with continental tire used race tires "conti scrubs". They take a bit to warm up, but are very sticky once warm and cheap.
The wheels cost me $400 for the set, and the tires usually are around $300 or less and I get about 12-20 sessions out of them depending on camber settings. I also have a bunch of pirelli pzero "scrub" tires in 275 and 305 widths that I'm going to try next year, which are stickier but don't last as long.
Depending on your comfort level on the car, I'd get the wheels and start with street rubber and get the car to as fast as you feel you can go with the tire, then move to a stickier compound. Starting with too much grip can cover up a lot of speed-killing mistakes and stunt driver development. Whole speed/control, slow is fast zen type stuff.
The wheels cost me $400 for the set, and the tires usually are around $300 or less and I get about 12-20 sessions out of them depending on camber settings. I also have a bunch of pirelli pzero "scrub" tires in 275 and 305 widths that I'm going to try next year, which are stickier but don't last as long.
Depending on your comfort level on the car, I'd get the wheels and start with street rubber and get the car to as fast as you feel you can go with the tire, then move to a stickier compound. Starting with too much grip can cover up a lot of speed-killing mistakes and stunt driver development. Whole speed/control, slow is fast zen type stuff.
Currently a Corvette Owner!



Joined: December 16, 2011
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 48
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Depending on your comfort level on the car, I'd get the wheels and start with street rubber and get the car to as fast as you feel you can go with the tire, then move to a stickier compound. Starting with too much grip can cover up a lot of speed-killing mistakes and stunt driver development. Whole speed/control, slow is fast zen type stuff.
Based on what I've read, tracking your car bone stock to get a 'baseline' is a smart approach. Then you can get to that set-up's limits on speed, cornering, turn-in, understeer, oversteer, braking, etc. Then you can improve the bits you want to, at your own pace. That's how I did it, and I'm glad I did.
---
Based on what I've read, tracking your car bone stock to get a 'baseline' is a smart approach. Then you can get to that set-up's limits on speed, cornering, turn-in, understeer, oversteer, braking, etc. Then you can improve the bits you want to, at your own pace. That's how I did it, and I'm glad I did.
Based on what I've read, tracking your car bone stock to get a 'baseline' is a smart approach. Then you can get to that set-up's limits on speed, cornering, turn-in, understeer, oversteer, braking, etc. Then you can improve the bits you want to, at your own pace. That's how I did it, and I'm glad I did.
Currently a Corvette Owner!



Joined: December 16, 2011
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 48
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
For now, I still track on street tires...granted they are max-performance-summer Contis. Only 3-4 track days per year, I can't afford the $$ for dedicated track wheels or track tires. I wish I could!
If you get the rims used and takeoff rubber, I think it can be pretty economical...especially if your street set is on the expensive side.
Currently a Corvette Owner!



Joined: December 16, 2011
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 48
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Track video from this past Sunday, with street Conti DW Summer (F-255/40, R-285/35):
https://themustangsource.com/f660/ne...2012-a-516725/
They howl when pushed, but perform pretty good.


