I wonder how the Torsen compares to the Eaton trutrac that I have in my Cougar?

I learned one thing about the truetrac the hard way:

I thought I'd use up some synthetic I had laying around after installing the truetrac (and new gears.) Bad idea - the worm gears need a certain amount of friction when they bind against their bores - with the synthetic the worm gears didn't stick soon enough and bound hard against the bores. Seriously bound-up differential was the result (windup, bang!, windup, bang!) on the turn at the end of the track. Luckily it didn't permanently break it, so I drained it (along with some metal filings) and replaced the fluid with regular old petroleum based diff fluid. Hasn't bound up since and I've done many hard launches at the track (1.6 - 1.7 60').

I don't know if the Torsen behaves the same, but if I drag race my Boss, I may switch to non-synthetic at the first oil change. I wish Torsen had as much info available as Eaton does.

 

Were you running in Sport mode or with everything off?

 

I ran it with nothing disabled, I actually didn't think about it till afterwards...
Of course wheel spin is not what I wanted or had too much of so it didn't occur to me.
I had't looked at many youtube vids of Boss 1/4 mi runs but now see that the mph mine did is pretty good. I've seen quite a few with equal or less mph from cars running slicks. After looking around I'm happier with it than I was. I'm hoping to find a cooler day to run & am sure I can get a couple tenths off that too.

 

On the Torsen debate, the Torsen in our experience is not a "drop the clutch at 5,000+ on slicks" kind if differential.

It will be fine on drag radials, but the Torsen excells at smooth power transfer in corners. That is its strength.

For drag race purposes a Auburn Pro or a full locker is typically what we would recommend depending on whether there is still some street use involved.

 

So if I'm running an all stock car once or twice a year for fun at the strip, am I better to leave it in sport mode and not drop the clutch at higher RPMs, or leave everything off or everything on?

 

Dropping the clutch hard is not an option with the Torsen.

Shut off all traction and stability controls. If you are on street tires you will have a hard time launching. Bringing the clutch out smoothly just off idle and feathering the throttle will typically be required.

With drag radials you can get much more aggressive. You should be able to launch as high as 3,000 to 4,000rpm depending on your setup and local track prep. You still dont drop the clutch, but you let it out faster, in a controlled manner so you are not just side stepping your foot and letting the clutch drop on its own.

On the link I am posting for our cold air intake, click on it and just scroll down to the video on that page. It demonstrates the drag radial technique I am describing.

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-c...ang-5.0-L.html

 

Awesome thanks, will have a peek.

 

Sorry to state the obvious SteedaGus but you got any videos that don't show the mustang getting smoked by a Trans Am

Kidding of course...got any dyno figures for the intake on a Boss without any other mods? I would guess as free breathing as the Boss is that an intake would have significant affect.

Yes I did see the sheet on the GT

 

Just to make sure I understand you correctly, are you asking for dyno numbers of our intake and tune on an actual Boss 302, or Boss intake, cold air, and tune on a normal 5.0L GT?

 

Actual Boss 302

 

Yes. This dyno sheet is from an actual Boss 302. The baseline number is bone stuck, BUT with 93 octane fuel, not 87 octane they leave the dealer with.

The second numbers is with our cold air intake and custom tune, still on 93 octane. All runs were done in 5th gear. Peak gain was 27 horsepower, max point to point gain was 29 horsepower. I was pretty impressed with it considering how hot it was out down here in Florida.

 

What was the ambient temp? Are those numbers corrected to SAE??

 

Shows SAE correction right on the sheet. Temps were right around 90 degrees most of the day. Semi cool for us this time of year. LOL

 

how does your tune idle



thanks rob

 

Sorry missed that. Mine doesn't say on it if it is SAE corrected but it was 97 degree outside and I put down 369 RWHP and 341 RWTQ on a Dyno-mite dynometer. It was suggested to me to have it re-dynoed on another dyno. Do these results seem low considering the conditions?

 

Mine made 391 on the dyno jet stock. A friend ran it last night and went 11.79@116 on drag radials with Full exhaust, one piece drive shaft, and lower control arms.

 

Thanks I see the post,,,Now if we could get a dyno sheet with the Trackey...cmon Ford help us out.

what kind of "tune" was done? Do you have any dyno sheets on a Boss without the tune and with just the air intake?

 

Okay, so what rpm do you use to launch the Boss in order to protect the Torsen?
Is there a point to having launch control if you're putting so much stress on the Torsen?
Does Ford provide a warning against hard launchs?

 

I took my Boss to a 1000 ft Armdrop event (not timed unfortunately) and, except for hitting a brick wall twice while trying to get into third , had a great time.

I kept it in sport mode as I feel I'm not experienced enough to run without anything on, and launched at at like 2500rpm. A little wheel hop, but nothing to dramatic. The car ran great, lots of fun.

 

Cool!
I found out (on here) that the shifter has sum type of springs in it so pushing straight up from 2nd & 4th will get you the gear you need. Trying to go over & up does cause missed shifts at times.
Practicing goin straight up has been helpful & reduced my misses...