Strong, Light, Inexpensive Wheels - 18x10 D-Force
#21
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Hmmm... I see Porsche and Corvettes coming out of the factory OEM with huge rear tires and smaller front tires... aka staggered setup. Pretty sure these are world-class cars that don't under steer terribly. Must be that the spring rates are adjusted to compensate for that.
Square setup, drop the rear rate or increase the front rate. Appears that an adjustable sway bar will do the trick on either end (as evidenced by several of us running square setups).
<or> just drive the car as delivered and enjoy the heck out of it.
Square setup, drop the rear rate or increase the front rate. Appears that an adjustable sway bar will do the trick on either end (as evidenced by several of us running square setups).
<or> just drive the car as delivered and enjoy the heck out of it.
#22
#23
Hmmm... I see Porsche and Corvettes coming out of the factory OEM with huge rear tires and smaller front tires... aka staggered setup. Pretty sure these are world-class cars that don't under steer terribly. Must be that the spring rates are adjusted to compensate for that.
Square setup, drop the rear rate or increase the front rate. Appears that an adjustable sway bar will do the trick on either end (as evidenced by several of us running square setups).
<or> just drive the car as delivered and enjoy the heck out of it.
Square setup, drop the rear rate or increase the front rate. Appears that an adjustable sway bar will do the trick on either end (as evidenced by several of us running square setups).
<or> just drive the car as delivered and enjoy the heck out of it.
#24
Originally Posted by 908ssp
Actually the Porsche had horrible oversteer problems with same size tires front and rear do to the rear engine. The Corvette has a transaxle and 50/50 weight distribution so it can get away with larger rear tires as well. Our cars can be made to handle very well with larger tires in the back. A stiffer rear sway bar in the back will load the front more and pull up on the outside rear tire putting more load on the front canceling some of the understeer. But for absolute maximum G loads you would want the widest tire you can on all four wheels.
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I spent quite a bit of time chatting with the D-Force guys at SEMA. First class people, extremely knowledgeable, great business people. I have no doubt they will bring a quality product to us and they will stand behind it. I wish them the very best!
#30
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The wheel & tire combo have plenty of clearance to the strut and the fender for coil-over cars running camber (OEM perches will most likely not be an option). Looks like the rear is a non-issue (we already kind of knew that).
Personally, since I run time-trails and depend on modification points staying low, I'll stick with a 295 or 285 series tires to not incur points and/or actually loose a point (TTA size is 295) where I can.
For Auto-x, this one is a no-brainer. You want the most grip you can squeeze under the OEM fender.
#31
The 315 is pinched some on the 10" wheel, but fits.
The wheel & tire combo have plenty of clearance to the strut and the fender for coil-over cars running camber (OEM perches will most likely not be an option). Looks like the rear is a non-issue (we already kind of knew that).
Personally, since I run time-trails and depend on modification points staying low, I'll stick with a 295 or 285 series tires to not incur points and/or actually loose a point (TTA size is 295) where I can.
For Auto-x, this one is a no-brainer. You want the most grip you can squeeze under the OEM fender.
The wheel & tire combo have plenty of clearance to the strut and the fender for coil-over cars running camber (OEM perches will most likely not be an option). Looks like the rear is a non-issue (we already kind of knew that).
Personally, since I run time-trails and depend on modification points staying low, I'll stick with a 295 or 285 series tires to not incur points and/or actually loose a point (TTA size is 295) where I can.
For Auto-x, this one is a no-brainer. You want the most grip you can squeeze under the OEM fender.
#32
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The 315 is pinched some on the 10" wheel, but fits.
The wheel & tire combo have plenty of clearance to the strut and the fender for coil-over cars running camber (OEM perches will most likely not be an option). Looks like the rear is a non-issue (we already kind of knew that).
Personally, since I run time-trails and depend on modification points staying low, I'll stick with a 295 or 285 series tires to not incur points and/or actually loose a point (TTA size is 295) where I can.
For Auto-x, this one is a no-brainer. You want the most grip you can squeeze under the OEM fender.
The wheel & tire combo have plenty of clearance to the strut and the fender for coil-over cars running camber (OEM perches will most likely not be an option). Looks like the rear is a non-issue (we already kind of knew that).
Personally, since I run time-trails and depend on modification points staying low, I'll stick with a 295 or 285 series tires to not incur points and/or actually loose a point (TTA size is 295) where I can.
For Auto-x, this one is a no-brainer. You want the most grip you can squeeze under the OEM fender.
Dave
Last edited by iDrive; 1/25/12 at 09:32 AM.
#33
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Good info Dave!
Adam - Not really a safety issue. As Dave has mentioned, auto-xrs do this constantly (look at what they used to cram onto the 7.5" and 8" wheels!). For track days, you have to look at the trade-off between grip, slip and drag.
Adam - Not really a safety issue. As Dave has mentioned, auto-xrs do this constantly (look at what they used to cram onto the 7.5" and 8" wheels!). For track days, you have to look at the trade-off between grip, slip and drag.
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