ulev1st

Finally got around to swapping out the pads and front rotors.. went ahead and changed to DOT 4 fluid.
Now I have a spongy feeling pedal that lacks that factory "FIRMNESS".
I used a power bleeder to force the fluid thru for the change out. After, it felt spongy so I tried the manual pump and bleed route..
It still feels spongy to me..
WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?
The car stops but it just seems like the pedal had to go down much further than before..
Help if you can...
Thanks

2006mach1

While the vehicle is not running, pump the brake pedal. If the pedal builds pressure or rises while pumping, you still have air in the system. Did you swap the rear pads? And if so, did you have to back off the piston using the special tool to rotate the piston back in the caliper?

ulev1st

I did swap the rear pads...I did use the right tool for the job..
I am trying something else now...pulling a 30 in vacuum onthe master cylinder thru a pump..I have a rubber cork stopper with a fitting thru a hose to pull the vacuum with..
If you pump the pedal it will build up slowly but if you press really hard it will go to the floor.

2012YellowBoss

Don
I posted this before, I can't prove it works but I have been bleeding brakes for years like this and it has always worked well for me. I am not a fan of any kind of speed bleeders.

2006mach1

Sounds like you got air......

RIBOSS

Some people are getting lucky bleeding there abs braking systems(just accepting them the way they are with the air), but if the air is allowed into the system then you need to take the car to the dealer, they have a scan tool with the correct program to cycle the abs valves to get out the trapped air!! Here is someone else with the same problem!!
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...n-control.html

AlsCobra

First off bleed the master cylinder. Get someone to pump the brakes a few times and hold it to the floor. Slowly crack the lines at your master cylinder. You should see after a couple times, if any air is in the system. One fitting at a time and pump and hold in between. You can pulse your abs system yourself instead of bringing it to the dealer. You need a good smooth stretch of grass. Get moving and lock it up in the grass. (honestly it works) ABS will kick in and pulse as you slide. That should work the air out of the abs system. I would bleed the master once more after that. Only thing left may be the individual wheels. This should take care of your problem.

smbstyle

Did the brake fluid resevoir go dry when you were swapping out the fluid? you can easily pull air into the ABS system this way, and the dealer will use a scan-tool to remove it. You can usually tell this is the case when the ABS will kick on much earlier than before.

One thing I'll do if I feel there is an air bubble to two trapped somewhere in the system, is with someone in the car, make sure their foot is off the brake pedal, open the bleeder without any pressure on the pedal, then have them hit the brake as hard and fast as they can, and once down all the way, close the bleeder. This has helped me get a few stubborn air bubbles out after a full fluid change.

Also, keep in mind your new brakes will take some time to get firm; the pad and rotor surfaces are new and are not perfectly mated with each other. After some bedding procedures you should notice a big difference.

cloud9

Had a friend get air in his brake lines a couple weeks ago at the track after a flush with a power bleeder. While there's no way to say for sure it caused it, I'm just leery of those things and continue to use the old fashioned two person method. The wife hates the job though lol.

cloud9

I would think that's easy to do with a power bleeder especially if you're not using it to push in the new fluid.