lol, I never even heard of it till today.

With all the talk of brake fluid and how it absorbs water (yes I will use fresh on the Boss) I don't mind so much on a run-of-the-mill non-track car using one that has been opened and resealed for a little while. You have to figure most cars on the road have never had the fluid changed, even if it is 15 years old

 

I've used AP Racing 5.1

http://www.apracing.com/info/info.as...uid+Details_94

And I've used Brembo LCF 600 and ATE Super Blue and they have all worked well. I can't say which is best. AP 5.1 has a wet boiling point of 369F and Super Blue which is a little less expensive is 388F. Brembo LCF 600 which is twice as much as Super Blue has wet boiling point of 399F.

I'm currently running Super Blue and will flush with LCF 600 after a couple more events since I have 6 bottles on the shelf.

 

I've been using the Wilwood 570 brake fluid for my cars. It's worked very well for me.

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/service-parts/

 

Ron,
Although I am sure the Wildwood EXP 600 plus and the Wildwood Hi-Temp 570 fluids are fine, I find it interesting that their product technical data (page 123) does not state compliance with DOT requirements for these two fluids.(Note their DOT5 "Five" fluid offering does state compliance with DOT standards)

http://www.wilwood.com/Pdf/Catalogs/TechCatalog.pdf

Per Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards
§571.116 Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids.


S1. Scope. This standard specifies requirements for fluids for use in hydraulic brake systems of motor vehicles, containers for these fluids, and labeling of the containers.

S2. Purpose. The purpose of this standard is to reduce failures in the hydraulic braking systems of motor vehicles which may occur because of the manufacture or use of improper or contaminated fluid.


S3. Application. This standard applies to all fluid for use in hydraulic brake systems of motor vehicles. In addition, S5.3 applies to passenger cars, multipurpose passenger vehicles, trucks, buses, trailers, and motorcycles.


S5.2.2 Certification, marking, and labeling.

S5.2.2.1 Each manufacturer of a DOT grade brake fluid shall furnish to each packager, distributor, or dealer to whom he delivers brake fluid, the following information:
(a) A serial number identifying the production lot and the date of manufacture of the brake fluid.
(b) The grade (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5) of the brake fluid. If DOT 5 grade brake fluid, it shall be further distinguished as “DOT 5 SILICONE BASE” or “DOT 5.1 NON-SILICONE BASE.”
(c) The minimum wet boiling point in Fahrenheit of the brake fluid.
(d) Certification that the brake fluid conforms to §571.116.

 

I only say that I do not recommend for Dot 3 or 4 for track since without maintenance your fluid will absorb water over time even if inside your "sealed" brake system. Dark Fluid is saturated with water. DOT 4 is perfectly fine if well maintained.


Non ABS cars are OK with Silicone DOT 5 (Wet Boiling Point 500F), just make sure you don't mix with Dot 3-4. (you end up with jelly lumps in your fluid) and Dot 5 does not eat off your paint if spilled. I run it in my non ABS cars and bikes.

But for the small $$ increase I will not run anything but 5.1 in all my cars with ABS. (So maybe I was a bit harsh on the others)
NAPA Dot 5.1 - 32 oz. $19.99 plus shipping.
If I recall it has a Wet boiling point close to 350-375F same range as higher priced fluids.

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...006443459&An=0

 

OK, I do understand. That is why I change the fluid in any car between one and two years of use. I will just need to bump that up for the Boss depending on how addicted to the track I get. I plan to run Dot 4 and I will be out just for fun.

When you guys change relatively newer fluid that is the same color how do you know you have finished? Put thought more then the system holds or is there some kind of safe color you can add? Normally I can see the new fluid coming out.

Oh and one last thing, does the Dot 4 in synthetic has the same properties with water absorption as non-synthetic?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2012YellowBoss

When you guys change relatively newer fluid that is the same color how do you know you have finished? Put thought more then the system holds or is there some kind of safe color you can add? Normally I can see the new fluid coming out.

YellowBoss you catch on pretty fast! That is an excellent question.

One fluid provider provides two identical fluids, one neutral or straw color (ATE Type 200) and another dyed light blue (ATE Super Blue). Both fluids have the same 396F wet, 536F dry capabilities. Racers typically alternate between the two fluids to more easily recognize when the full system has been flushed by the change in fluid color.

Your last question is a bit incorrect. Per the DOT spec, “A silicone base brake fluid (SBBF) is a brake fluid which consists of not less than 70 percent by weight of a diorgano polysiloxane” and is identified as a DOT 5 fluid. The two types of brake fluids are thus either silicone (not identified as “synthetic”) or non-silicone. DOT 4 fluids (as well as DOT 3 and DOT 5.1 fluids) are not silicone based. They cannot be mixed with silicone based DOT 5 fluids as commented on earlier. To answer what I think your question was, the moisture absorbency of non-silicon based fluids is quite different than silicone (DOT 5) fluids.

 

Is anyone going to drill a drain and fill in the rear Diff ? I'll be tracking mine this next week and I will need to change the fluid. I'll take it to a local speed shop for the fliud change and I'm thinking about havng them drill and plug in the locations that appears to be provided.

 

wow,

me to please if you dont mind!


btw, this is a scottfest!

beers

 

Personal cliff notes on thread from experience with tracking the 05-09 cars:
Brake Fluid: ATE Super Blue. Flush 1x/season. Bleed every 3-4 events. Use speedbleeders or a powerbleeder to make your life easier.
Oil/Filter: After every other event, unless you hit the regular mileage change interval first.
Trans: 1x/season. You'll need a fluid transfer pump to refill it.
Diff: 1x/season. You'd be better off using the plug bosses to mount up a diff cooler system than as a drain and fill, IMO. There is a trough at the bottom of the pumpkin that you need to remove the cover to evacuate. The lower plug is above that trough.
Diff cooler plumbing example (Courtesy of Rehagen Racing):

 

sure will! it'll be team scott at sebring.

 

Pretty much sums up what I have done on my 07 GT500 as well, and feelings about need for drain plug. Unless you're going to be hardcore racing the Boss, I don't think you'll need the diff cooler.

 

Agreed. The diff cooler kits are $1100 and up, and most drivers aren't going to be driving hard enough to get the diff to a concerning heat level during a 20 min HPDE sprint. If you're thinking of doing any endurance racing with the car, or maybe something like the Silver State Classic, you might want to consider it.