2012-2013 BOSS 302

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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #21  
2012YellowBoss's Avatar
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Nobody seems to know why the 5.0 is using the FL500S. I have asked this question to many, Jim told me he would find out when I asked him at Miller but I have not heard back yet. I emailed FCS about this and they said if you use the 820S it will not be covered under warranty if there is a problem.

That is wierd since I understand Ford Racing sends a racing version of the 820S with the intake kit. Also after bringing the issue up with the dealer (they told me to contact FCS) they put a FL820S on my Boss during the first oil change. Even the new F-150 is calling for the 500S.

Somewhere somehow someone must know something .... S197 ??? I assume there was a reason?
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #22  
texastboneking's Avatar
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From: Cleburne, Tx
Originally Posted by 2012YellowBoss
Nobody seems to know why the 5.0 is using the FL500S. I have asked this question to many, Jim told me he would find out when I asked him at Miller but I have not heard back yet. I emailed FCS about this and they said if you use the 820S it will not be covered under warranty if there is a problem.

That is wierd since I understand Ford Racing sends a racing version of the 820S with the intake kit. Also after bringing the issue up with the dealer (they told me to contact FCS) they put a FL820S on my Boss during the first oil change. Even the new F-150 is calling for the 500S.

Somewhere somehow someone must know something .... S197 ??? I assume there was a reason?
I'm gonna take a wild guess and say the 500 is plenty efficient for the new cleaner engines. They are probably trying to cut costs anywhere they can and maybe the 500 is really that much cheaper to produce than the 820.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #23  
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People, garages, etc substitute filters all the time.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 12:23 PM
  #24  
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From: Alaska
I was checking filters also and found a write up on some.
I talked to FRPP and they were saying that the larger/HD race filters is what he would use.... I bought a set of 6 to get a discount and am ready now.
-------------------------
Oil Filters
FYI.....picked this up on another site.

Motorcraft FL-820s vs
Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filters

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I thought you guys would be interested in reading this comparison study because so many people are under the impression that both of these filters are exactly the same just different labels. Look at the difference in total square inches of filtering media surface, Ford Racing
is 250 square inches compared to 156 square inches for the Motorcraft, that's 94 square inches less! A larger filtering surface means more oil flow and greater filtering capacity. I get my Ford Racing filters from LateModel Restoration Supply OIL FILTER, FL820 - HIGH PERFORMANCE MISCFORD for $12.99. The Ford Racing filter is built using thicker metal (noticeably heavier) for the can material and the threaded base plate is real beefy with deep high quality machined threads. I was using the K&N HP-2010 until I read this article. The Motorcraft and Ford Racing Filters both utilize a base end mounted bypass valve instead of a top dome mounted bypass valve like the K&N and Purolator models. You can read about the importance of the bypass valve location in the oil filter comparison link I have attached for you below.

Read this link for the full comparison FL-820S Oil Filter Alternatives


Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
* Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
* Overall Height - 3.99"
* Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
* Filter Element Height - 2.81"
* Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
* Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.73"
* Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
* Media thickness - 0.029"
* Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
Label - 6945234
Base - 22 / MM
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicon



Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 4.05"
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.51"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
* Media thickness - 0.035"
* Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
* Indentifying marks
Can - Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)



K&N HP-2010 Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 16.8 oz
* Overall OD - 3.66"
* Overall Height - 4.09" to top of "nut" / 3.71" to top of can
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.36"
* Filter Element Height - 2.24"
* Media - Synthetic (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 55 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.72"
* Media length (unrolled) - 89.3"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.1"
* Media thickness - 0.030"
* Total media surface area - 187 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.6 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.015" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 072206C1 / Product of USA
ADBV - AAX / 77
Base - ZZ
* Gasket Retention - Press Fit
* Thread - M22 -1.5
* Relief Valve Location - dome end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
* Gasket includes lubricant




Purolator PureOne PL24651 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 12.6 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 3.77"
* Can Material - 0.014" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.65"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 60 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 91.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.56"
* Media thickness - 0.030"
* Total media surface area - 234 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.0 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.72"
* Indentifying marks
Can - F07518G2 / Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 104
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Gasket includes teflon
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - dome end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)




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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #25  
LadyBoss302's Avatar
Thread Starter
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Joined: August 25, 2011
Posts: 411
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by jjurgens
I was checking filters also and found a write up on some.
I talked to FRPP and they were saying that the larger/HD race filters is what he would use.... I bought a set of 6 to get a discount and am ready now.
-------------------------
Oil Filters
FYI.....picked this up on another site.

Motorcraft FL-820s vs Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filters

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I thought you guys would be interested in reading this comparison study because so many people are under the impression that both of these filters are exactly the same just different labels. Look at the difference in total square inches of filtering media surface, Ford Racing is 250 square inches compared to 156 square inches for the Motorcraft, that's 94 square inches less! A larger filtering surface means more oil flow and greater filtering capacity. I get my Ford Racing filters from LateModel Restoration Supply OIL FILTER, FL820 - HIGH PERFORMANCE MISCFORD for $12.99. The Ford Racing filter is built using thicker metal (noticeably heavier) for the can material and the threaded base plate is real beefy with deep high quality machined threads. I was using the K&N HP-2010 until I read this article. The Motorcraft and Ford Racing Filters both utilize a base end mounted bypass valve instead of a top dome mounted bypass valve like the K&N and Purolator models. You can read about the importance of the bypass valve location in the oil filter comparison link I have attached for you below.

Read this link for the full comparison FL-820S Oil Filter Alternatives

Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
* Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
* Overall Height - 3.99"
* Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
* Filter Element Height - 2.81"
* Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
* Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.73"
* Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
* Media thickness - 0.029"
* Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
Label - 6945234
Base - 22 / MM
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicon

Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 4.05"
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.51"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
* Media thickness - 0.035"
* Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
* Indentifying marks
Can - Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)

K&N HP-2010 Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 16.8 oz
* Overall OD - 3.66"
* Overall Height - 4.09" to top of "nut" / 3.71" to top of can
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.36"
* Filter Element Height - 2.24"
* Media - Synthetic (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 55 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.72"
* Media length (unrolled) - 89.3"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.1"
* Media thickness - 0.030"
* Total media surface area - 187 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.6 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.015" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.66"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 072206C1 / Product of USA
ADBV - AAX / 77
Base - ZZ
* Gasket Retention - Press Fit
* Thread - M22 -1.5
* Relief Valve Location - dome end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
* Gasket includes lubricant

Purolator PureOne PL24651 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 12.6 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 3.77"
* Can Material - 0.014" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.65"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 60 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 91.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.56"
* Media thickness - 0.030"
* Total media surface area - 234 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.0 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.72"
* Indentifying marks
Can - F07518G2 / Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 104
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Gasket includes teflon
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - dome end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)


Great info. Thank you
Reply
Old Sep 8, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #26  
nota4re's Avatar
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Joined: April 21, 2011
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From: Santa Clarita, CA
Really? Do you think Ford, with two off-the-shelf filters to choose, no production end date for either, is going to recommend a filter that would have any remote chance of not being fully protective of this engine? BTW, the filter from the factory is small than all 3 filters listed. Nothing wrong with the larger filter but if you plan to follow recommended change intervals, no real need either, IMHO.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:02 PM
  #27  
5 DOT 0's Avatar
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Joined: December 18, 2010
Posts: 3,708
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by nota4re
Really? Do you think Ford, with two off-the-shelf filters to choose, no production end date for either, is going to recommend a filter that would have any remote chance of not being fully protective of this engine? BTW, the filter from the factory is small than all 3 filters listed. Nothing wrong with the larger filter but if you plan to follow recommended change intervals, no real need either, IMHO.
Are you running Motorcraft 5W50 in the GT's and LS's?
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 07:27 PM
  #28  
2012YellowBoss's Avatar
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Joined: December 3, 2010
Posts: 1,851
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Originally Posted by nota4re
Really? Do you think Ford, with two off-the-shelf filters to choose, no production end date for either, is going to recommend a filter that would have any remote chance of not being fully protective of this engine? BTW, the filter from the factory is small than all 3 filters listed. Nothing wrong with the larger filter but if you plan to follow recommended change intervals, no real need either, IMHO.
Kendall I agree with this but would love to find out the reason behind it. It could just be a matter of cost, if that is the case then the 820 would be better but if there is a different reason I would like to know. What confuses this more is that they ship a 820 with the Boss intake for the Coyote engines.

One another note does anyone know if the anti-drainback valve is different or the same valve as the bypass valve? I use to use any equivalent for the FL1A but always use the Motorcraft on the newer 820 applications because of the anti-siphon valve.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:31 PM
  #29  
nota4re's Avatar
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Joined: April 21, 2011
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From: Santa Clarita, CA
Scott, not sure I understand the "cost" theory. The car comes with neither filter we are discussing (at least the 3 LS's than we're tampering with didn't). Haven't looked recently but I thought the cost of the two different sizes was almost the same? (I know the Ford Racing filter is higher and built better.)

Yes, we run exclusively the Motorcraft 5w-50 in all of the GT engines and the Coyote cars.

Hope I'm not offending anyone - not my intention.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 09:19 AM
  #30  
boss man's Avatar
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From: NJ. Waiting for our Gov. to be held accountable for his actions>>>Jersey Broke
My head hurts reading this.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 11:06 AM
  #31  
LadyBoss302's Avatar
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Joined: August 25, 2011
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by boss man
My head hurts reading this.
I suppose you could go with the additional suggestions based on specs, or just replace the stock filter and trust the filter it comes with ;-) does that simplify matters :-)
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 12:04 PM
  #32  
4pipes's Avatar
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Joined: January 14, 2011
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From: NorCal
I have a very complex approach to this subject. After every track day, I take my car down to my dealer first thing in the morning, have their specialty mustang tech change my oil and filter while I read the paper. Then drive home.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #33  
cloud9's Avatar
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Joined: November 20, 2010
Posts: 2,382
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Originally Posted by 4pipes
I have a very complex approach to this subject. After every track day, I take my car down to my dealer first thing in the morning, have their specialty mustang tech change my oil and filter while I read the paper. Then drive home.
Copy cat For the $9 in labor they charge me, it's hardly worth the effort of buying the oil and filters, taking it to a disposal facility and doing it on jack stands. The only thing I have to make sure about is reminding them of the DOT4 in the brake reservoir with a big STOP! label on it
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #34  
LateApex's Avatar
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I run redline 5w50 and K&N filters - always been a winning combo for me. I happen to be lucky enough to be able to get both locally, and relatively cheap. After my 3k oil change, I'll be sending out my next batch of Redline to Blackstone Labs for a proper analysis. We'll see what we can see then.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 01:17 PM
  #35  
5 DOT 0's Avatar
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Joined: December 18, 2010
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by cloud9
Copy cat For the $9 in labor they charge me, it's hardly worth the effort of buying the oil and filters, taking it to a disposal facility and doing it on jack stands. The only thing I have to make sure about is reminding them of the DOT4 in the brake reservoir with a big STOP! label on it
Looks like a winning combination to me. I just need to make sure the dealer uses the correct weight oil.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #36  
jim woodruff's Avatar
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From: akron ohio
I must have missed the link that explains the relief valve location base vs dome. I would like to know the difference and how it effects the filter operation. Thanks,
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #37  
JScheier's Avatar
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From: Parker, Colorado
Originally Posted by 4pipes
After every track day, I take my car down to my dealer first thing in the morning, have their specialty mustang tech change my oil and filter while I read the paper. Then drive home.
After every event? ****. Blackstone will do an analysis on there and most likely show you the oil still has a TON of life left in it. My Boss and I are available for adoption though

Originally Posted by Cloud9
Copy cat For the $9 in labor they charge me, it's hardly worth the effort of buying the oil and filters, taking it to a disposal facility and doing it on jack stands.
I use the time under the car while the oil is draining to nut-n-bolt and verify that everything is still the way it is supposed to be, no strange leaks, etc. I've yet to find a shop that is as thorough as the guy who's butt is in the seat heading into a corner at 140 mph
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #38  
2012YellowBoss's Avatar
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Originally Posted by jim woodruff
I must have missed the link that explains the relief valve location base vs dome. I would like to know the difference and how it effects the filter operation. Thanks,
This is what I have read:

Filters operate in bypass mode when oil pressure to the engine through the filter media drops too low. This can happen during cold weather starts or if the filter is full and the oil will not flow at a high enough rate or pressure. The design of the Motorcraft filter is different so that it bypasses the oil straight back out without washing over the dirty media like some aftermarket filters. All of this should never happen under normal circumstances.

What I do not understand if this is a different valve since (supposedly) the Motorcraft filter also uses a anti-siphon valve. This is to stop oil draining out of the filter when the engine is not running. On the 302 it would not make a difference because of the placement of the filter. I use to think that was what the "S" stood for but I was also told it stands for "short". If that is true maybe the 820 was replaced by the 500 because it does not need the extra siphon valve.

Last edited by 2012YellowBoss; Sep 9, 2011 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #39  
cloud9's Avatar
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Joined: November 20, 2010
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Originally Posted by JScheier

After every event? ****. Blackstone will do an analysis on there and most likely show you the oil still has a TON of life left in it. My Boss and I are available for adoption though

I use the time under the car while the oil is draining to nut-n-bolt and verify that everything is still the way it is supposed to be, no strange leaks, etc. I've yet to find a shop that is as thorough as the guy who's butt is in the seat heading into a corner at 140 mph
Fair point but I do that when swapping rotors pads and brake fluid. Might be time to get a lift
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