LOWERED Ocassional use TRACK cars..2012 LS
#1
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
LOWERED Ocassional use TRACK cars..2012 LS
I would really like to lower my 12 LS.
I just think there is too much gap between the top of the tire and the fender.
I'm NOT talking a lot. But at the same time, I really don't want any ill effects to the handling as I do some Open Track days and am quite pleased with my suspension for my level of experience.
So, I guess I'm looking for suggetions on springs as I really don't want the expense of full coilovers.
Has anybody lowered an LS and still have decent track results?
I am open to suggestions with feed back from anybody who has done this. On track days I have dedicated wheel/tires and they are 18's.
Can anybody offer suggestions please?
THANKS IN ADVANCE for your time to reply,
Don
I just think there is too much gap between the top of the tire and the fender.
I'm NOT talking a lot. But at the same time, I really don't want any ill effects to the handling as I do some Open Track days and am quite pleased with my suspension for my level of experience.
So, I guess I'm looking for suggetions on springs as I really don't want the expense of full coilovers.
Has anybody lowered an LS and still have decent track results?
I am open to suggestions with feed back from anybody who has done this. On track days I have dedicated wheel/tires and they are 18's.
Can anybody offer suggestions please?
THANKS IN ADVANCE for your time to reply,
Don
#2
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: May 6, 2012
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I would try the FRPP P springs, nice small drop. May need a few other things with them to make sure you don't screw up the geometry. I did the P springs and also get LCA's with relo brackets and an adjustable PHB. These made the car a little stiffer there is much less roll and brake dive.
#3
As you know lowering springs makes the car LOOK better
AND lowers the center of gravity (always desirable)
BUT doing so causes two items to consider NOT serious but important:
1. rear lower control arms
2. rear end pan hard bar
Rear lower control arms
When I lowered my Boss 302, we found that rear lower control arms were no longer horizontal to the ground, which can cause the rear end not to work as it should:
before picture:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
After installing LCA's and relocation bracket the arms are again horizontal to the ground
Rear end pan hard bar
When you lower a Mustang the panhard bar is a bit too longer, two solutions: install an adjustable panhard bar OR install a Watts Link (which completely removes the panhard bar. I installed the Watts Link on my Boss seen here:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
I hope this helps
If you're ever in the DFW area, ping me for a meet up
jerrycecco@gmail.com
Allen, TX
AND lowers the center of gravity (always desirable)
BUT doing so causes two items to consider NOT serious but important:
1. rear lower control arms
2. rear end pan hard bar
Rear lower control arms
When I lowered my Boss 302, we found that rear lower control arms were no longer horizontal to the ground, which can cause the rear end not to work as it should:
before picture:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
After installing LCA's and relocation bracket the arms are again horizontal to the ground
Rear end pan hard bar
When you lower a Mustang the panhard bar is a bit too longer, two solutions: install an adjustable panhard bar OR install a Watts Link (which completely removes the panhard bar. I installed the Watts Link on my Boss seen here:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater
I hope this helps
If you're ever in the DFW area, ping me for a meet up
jerrycecco@gmail.com
Allen, TX
Last edited by JPC; 11/9/13 at 09:28 PM.
#4
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Check out the Boss lowering springs from Steeda. They lowered my Boss one inch in the rear and the front stayed the same. Also put on their adjustable pan hard bar and LCA's w/o new brackets. I went ahead and had heavy duty upper strut mounts installed too. It's a touch stiffer but not real noticable. It feels tighter overall, the brake dive is much improved and the look is great!
#5
Team Mustang Source
Join Date: June 17, 2012
Location: West Central MN
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There are several options out there for you. Just make sure to pick a reputable name...FRRP , Steeda, Eibach, H&R, Hotchkis.
I went with Hotchkis....Stage -1 TVS and Rear End Suspension kit. I also did MM caster/camber plates and added LCA lowering brackets...along with Koni Sport Dampers. These suspension upgrades have really impacted the way my "Regular" Boss handles...and when I added 18" racing wheels and race slicks....the car absolutely hooks up through the corners!
Good Luck...Lots of choices which is a good thing.
Wayne
I went with Hotchkis....Stage -1 TVS and Rear End Suspension kit. I also did MM caster/camber plates and added LCA lowering brackets...along with Koni Sport Dampers. These suspension upgrades have really impacted the way my "Regular" Boss handles...and when I added 18" racing wheels and race slicks....the car absolutely hooks up through the corners!
Good Luck...Lots of choices which is a good thing.
Wayne
#7
I went with Hotchkis....Stage -1 TVS and Rear End Suspension kit. I also did MM caster/camber plates and added LCA lowering brackets...along with Koni Sport Dampers. These suspension upgrades have really impacted the way my "Regular" Boss handles...and when I added 18" racing wheels and race slicks....the car absolutely hooks up through the corners!
Wayne
Wayne
are they adjustable? do you recall the part numbers?
--Jerry
#8
Team Mustang Source
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Jerry:
The sum total of all the suspension upgrades has been a dramatic improvement....IMHO. Now it also increased some noise because of the Heim joint in the UCA. The Koni sports work very well on the street...I leave them dialed to their softest settings and it's probably similar to the factory units on full firm...maybe slightly more firm. In any event...there is minimal brake dive, minimal body roll and no wheel hop. I'm really impressed at how well the S 197 can be made to handle.
As far as part numbers....I went with the new style strut shaft....so I didn't go with the common GT 500 strut hat upgrade. The part numbers I have are as follows: 2x 8741-1549 and 2x 8241-1240
8741-1549 2011+ Mustang Koni yellow struts ( Taken from the Hypermotive website.) I purchased the Koni's from Hypermotive...they are a vendor here....dealt with Jay...great people to work with...speedy shipping and great pricing.
Anyway....In my opinion...my Boss now drives and handles the way I prefer and enjoy the most. But....I also take my car to the track and want more from it than a weekend cruiser...so take my opinions with a grain of salt. Ford did a really decent job...I just want more from the vehicle.
Wayne
#9
Team Mustang Source
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I should say the Koni's are firm...but not to the point that you feel your fillings getting pounded out. If anything...it's more confidence inspiring...especially at high speed on the track. The street is perfectly fine.
#10
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Lots of Boss owners are using the Ford Racing P springs. You can check out more info below.
http://bossmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2041.0
http://bossmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=2041.0
#11
Bullitt Member
Thread Starter
Finally made a decision...THANKS for all the help!
I went with the follwing as I use my car MORE on the street than track days.Hopefully I will see benefits for both.
M-5300-P SPRINGS
FRPP R LOWER CONTROL ARMS
FRPP JOUNCE KIT
FRPP GT500 STRUT MOUNTS
WHITELINE PANHARD BAR BRACE
WHITELINE ADJ PANHARD BAR
FRPP LCA RELOCATION BRACKETS
M-5300-P SPRINGS
FRPP R LOWER CONTROL ARMS
FRPP JOUNCE KIT
FRPP GT500 STRUT MOUNTS
WHITELINE PANHARD BAR BRACE
WHITELINE ADJ PANHARD BAR
FRPP LCA RELOCATION BRACKETS
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