2012-2013 BOSS 302

Looking for lightweight exhaust...

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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 11:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by adam81
Yep. Picking up the driveshaft, already have the rotors, and looking into wheels now.

Once I get some more information I am going to create a "diet" thread....
Cloud9 has a diet thread at BMO. I'd focus on the front of the car.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 06:19 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 5 DOT 0
Cloud9 has a diet thread at BMO. I'd focus on the front of the car.

Cloud9 is from South Dakota.... They have nothing but corn and cattle there. I don't know how much I can trust a "diet" thread he created.....
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 06:53 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by adam81
Cloud9 is from South Dakota.... They have nothing but corn and cattle there. I don't know how much I can trust a "diet" thread he created.....
Ever hear of the Atkins diet? I actually ate light last night, petite 10 oz bacon wrapped sirloin and a salad

Last edited by cloud9; Oct 25, 2011 at 06:55 AM.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:18 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Mikes5.0
No prob, have you looked into a one piece drive shaft, dba 5000 rotors and maybe some lighter wheels? I think the LS wheels are around 30lbs a piece so you could probably shave some good there.
This is some excellent advice.

When I went from my stock tires and wheels, they weighed 57lbs per wheel, to my current setup, I lost a LOT of rotational weight. My wheels now weigh 50lbs up front and 52lbs out back. Thing is, I have much wider tires on the rear end now. I went from 245/45's all around to 255/35 up front and 275/35 out back.

Unsprung weight was reduced by going with drilled and slotted rotors, saved 1lb per rotor, BBR Billet LCA's, at least 2lbs per side, Steeda PHB, at least 1.5lbs, Steeda Ultralight springs, another couple pounds, and Koni STR.T dampers, perhaps a 2lb savings with those. I plan to get a UCA here soon so I can get my pinion angle down a bit for better traction. I'm not sure what that will save in weight.

A Catback or axle-back for some weight savings, but you will REALLY notice a weight savings in rotational weight. The first time I took the Mustang out after putting on my new wheels and tires, it felt like it did when I first installed the intake and tune. Noticeable as hell!

I'll get a one piece D/S at some point.

Last edited by VTXFrank; Oct 25, 2011 at 07:19 AM. Reason: Spelling error
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 07:36 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by phiggs54

Easiest place to lose weight without sacrificing HP is the driver
Adam, I will volunteer to race your car to see what speed gains u will get by losing weight. I weigh around 110lb in the name of research hahahaaaa
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 08:34 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LadyBoss302
Adam, I will volunteer to race your car to see what speed gains u will get by losing weight. I weigh around 110lb in the name of research hahahaaaa
LOL..... if we consider driving skills equal the weight difference should be good for 1-2 seconds in the quarter....
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by VTXFrank
This is some excellent advice.

When I went from my stock tires and wheels, they weighed 57lbs per wheel, to my current setup, I lost a LOT of rotational weight. My wheels now weigh 50lbs up front and 52lbs out back. Thing is, I have much wider tires on the rear end now. I went from 245/45's all around to 255/35 up front and 275/35 out back.

Unsprung weight was reduced by going with drilled and slotted rotors, saved 1lb per rotor, BBR Billet LCA's, at least 2lbs per side, Steeda PHB, at least 1.5lbs, Steeda Ultralight springs, another couple pounds, and Koni STR.T dampers, perhaps a 2lb savings with those. I plan to get a UCA here soon so I can get my pinion angle down a bit for better traction. I'm not sure what that will save in weight.

A Catback or axle-back for some weight savings, but you will REALLY notice a weight savings in rotational weight. The first time I took the Mustang out after putting on my new wheels and tires, it felt like it did when I first installed the intake and tune. Noticeable as hell!

I'll get a one piece D/S at some point.

Yes it was excellent advice.... However don't misunderstand the reason for this thread. It is not intended to be the best way to save weight nor one of the first you should do....

This thread's purpose is to identify light weight exhaust options for people to consider when they start their own weight reduction program.

I want to do an exhaust. Most everything that I do to the car weight will be considered. Hence lightweight exhaust thread....
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:08 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by adam81

LOL..... if we consider driving skills equal the weight difference should be good for 1-2 seconds in the quarter....
Hey now are you saying you can drive in a straight line for a mere 1/4 distance faster than me and it takes some skill. Ooooo hummbugggg. The my research plan is foiled. Lol.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by LadyBoss302
Hey now are you saying you can drive in a straight line for a mere 1/4 distance faster than me and it takes some skill. Ooooo hummbugggg. The my research plan is foiled. Lol.
LOL....... No I was making fun of myself and saying if everything was equal you would be faster because of the weight difference. Just making a joke...even though I am not that big....
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by adam81

LOL....... No I was making fun of myself and saying if everything was equal you would be faster because of the weight difference. Just making a joke...even though I am not that big....
I see you are giving me a whole second or two benefit for just being a few pounds lighter. Wow that was gracious. I hope u find a good lightweight exhaust that works out for you.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:14 PM
  #31  
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I think we discussed that ditching the sidepipes and Boss H-pipe was worth about 15-20 lbs.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:32 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 06GT
I think we discussed that ditching the sidepipes and Boss H-pipe was worth about 15-20 lbs.
Or ditch the mufflers and just run side dumps.

Peter
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #33  
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I am looking into gutting everything behind the stock cats. Essentially finding a x pipe and back exhaust. I believe I found the after hpipe piece... Now my search begins for a x pipe.
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Old Oct 25, 2011 | 01:11 PM
  #34  
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My pype bomb axle backs were a lot lighter than the stock GT mufflers I replaced. Maybe 12 lbs each. But I did not weigh them to be sure. You could just feel that it was a lot less weight. If I remember correctly the shipping weight on the box the set of pype bombs came in was 21 lbs total and the packaging must have been a couple pounds. Not sure if the make them to fit Boss 302.

Last edited by AlaskaStang; Oct 25, 2011 at 01:25 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 07:12 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by tj@steeda
Adam,

I just wanted to repost this article for you in case you did not see it. Just because you put a tune on your car does not mean it will void the warranty.
Just to make it clear. Just because you put a part on your car it DOES NOT void your warranty. For a product to affect the warranty, there must be an investigation done by the party refuting the warranty to prove that the aftermarket product indeed caused the OEM component part to fail. Just because you put a CAI on your car it does not automatically void the warranty. The CAI would have the be the direct cause that caused the part to fail. Also, you have to remember when installing aftermarket parts you are responsible to care and drive the car in a non malicious way - because no warranty covers "abuse" .

When you are installing Steeda parts on your cars, please note that we are giving you the benefit of a component part that indeed will work as advertised and will not cause a direct component failure on your car. We work very closely with Ford and develop our performance parts and accessories so that they perform as necessary and will not cause another component to fail. All of our parts are engineered uner strict ISO 9001-2008 certificatied standards and are specifically designed to provide worry free operation. They carry a lifetime warranty and we have never had an instance of a Ford vehicle having it's warranty refuted due to a direct result of our parts.

Steeda Autosports is a company that will stand by you in case something does happen. If a dealer does not want to service a warranty claim, then Steeda will provide the necessary support through either the dealer or will work with Ford Motor Company to get your vehicle serviced. Steeda has never had an issue with a warranty claim. All of our products are tested and proven not to exceed recommend testin.. Steeda backs its products 100% so you never have to worry about being left behind.

We have several upgrades for the boss 302 if you are interested in giving us a call. We can take your car to a new level.

Sounds good, so you never had a problem with this TSB?

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...sb11-07-07.pdf
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:32 AM
  #36  
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Does any know if a complete exhaust system (headers back with no cats) will require a tune? I am not talking about needing a tune to delete a check engine light. Is a tune required to straighten out the AFR or any other detrimental affects?

Everything I know about other platforms would say "yes you need a tune". Just new to the Mustang world...
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #37  
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We have not had any reported issues so far when it comes to the #8 cylinder failures. We push our products to the limits so we know when we sell them to the consumer they will not hit that breaking point. Our tunes are written with this in mind and have had no issues with cylinder.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 02:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by adam81
Does any know if a complete exhaust system (headers back with no cats) will require a tune? I am not talking about needing a tune to delete a check engine light. Is a tune required to straighten out the AFR or any other detrimental affects?

Everything I know about other platforms would say "yes you need a tune". Just new to the Mustang world...
You go with an off road X pipe you will need a tune. Also even with high flow cats and longtubes I would get a tune. Ran mine for a few weeks ARH long tubes, highflow cats, Magnaflow cat back and it ran very rich. Had to replace plugs and O2 sensor on bank 2.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 05:36 PM
  #39  
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You can buy 2011+ GT500 mufflers from Ford Racing to save weight over the stock mufflers while getting a much louder sound (still tuned to avoid drone). The stock muffler outer shell and endcaps are thicker gauge steel than what is run on the GT500. The weight difference is significant, plus there are less internals.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by adam81
Does any know if a complete exhaust system (headers back with no cats) will require a tune? I am not talking about needing a tune to delete a check engine light. Is a tune required to straighten out the AFR or any other detrimental affects?

Everything I know about other platforms would say "yes you need a tune". Just new to the Mustang world...

YES you will need a tune...esp if you want to realize the full potential of all the money you spent on the mods.

On the exhaust side... I saved over 23 lbs ditching the factory catted midpipe and side pipes

Also I had the post office weigh my Borla S type muffler (to send via UPS LOL) and they weigh 14 lbs each!! Big savings there!! To go to titanium I beleive you would really be a a point of diminishing returns on the dollar and you would be better off doing other mods...esp wheels and DS like others have said. Rear seat delete, pull all the trunk linings, stereo and speakers. a/c, headliner, LOL OH I guess that's a 302S nm
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