Day 1
3/9/11, 09:16 PM
#1
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Day 1
To kill time waiting... I've been thinking about things I want to do on delivery day:
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
3/9/11, 10:04 PM
#2
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3/10/11, 01:35 AM
#3
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if I were you I'd ask them NOT to do the dealer prep (cleaning/detailing) and do it yourself, or else you'll be paying people like me $500-$1000 to get the swirls and holograms out that the lot-monkeys at the dealer put in.
for those picking up Kona Blue w/ torsen and recaro option, please treat it nicely and take care of it for the next year until I can buy it from you.
for those picking up Kona Blue w/ torsen and recaro option, please treat it nicely and take care of it for the next year until I can buy it from you.
Last edited by smbstyle; 3/10/11 at 01:37 AM.
3/10/11, 05:37 AM
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Already told mine!
Also, recommend strongly that you put a couple of hundred miles on the brakes prior to burnishing them. They need a few dozen heat cycles first. I've warped big money rotors by burnishing them too early....
Also, recommend strongly that you put a couple of hundred miles on the brakes prior to burnishing them. They need a few dozen heat cycles first. I've warped big money rotors by burnishing them too early....
3/10/11, 05:46 AM
#6
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#1 item. BE THERE when it is off-loaded. #2. Keep every bit of paper work that is stuffed in various places. #3 Photo document it at delivery to the dealer. #4 Tell them exactly want you do NOT want them to do, and what you do want. Do NOT let them deviate. Your S/C needs 100 miles before will kick in anyway, so as noted above...careful with the brakes!!!
Oh and fuel: You're correct. Take a slip form them to their gas station of choice, but do it YOURSELF, do not trust them to do the right thing.
Oh and fuel: You're correct. Take a slip form them to their gas station of choice, but do it YOURSELF, do not trust them to do the right thing.
3/10/11, 07:13 AM
#9
Cobra Member
Why change the oil?...Please 101 me.
3/10/11, 07:18 AM
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Im sorry, did you say S/C, as in supercharger? lol. If someone has a Boss where a S/C kicks in at 100 miles, send the supercharger fairy my way!!
3/10/11, 07:24 AM
#11
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To kill time waiting... I've been thinking about things I want to do on delivery day:
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
1) remind the dealer not to put in regular gas
2) initial break in on the way home from dealer (Motoman style - 5 miles) http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
3) change to dino oil
4) more break-in acceleration runs and,
5) brake burnishing process from page 37 of the manual 2012_Mustang_Owners_Guide_Boss_Supplement.pdf
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
Today's engines are built to tighter clearances,and a thick oil would do damage,by not flowing properly.
These engines also don't need a prolonged break-in period.
Stick with a 5W base type viscosity. The Synthetic 5W50,is designed for easy flow,when engine is cold,and the higher RPM and oil temps.
All new engines are coming with either a synthetic blend or full synthetic oil.
3/10/11, 07:36 AM
#12
Legacy TMS Member
To kill time waiting... I've been thinking about things I want to do on delivery day:
3) change to dino oil
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
3) change to dino oil
Anybody else thinking of going natural for break-in oil? I can't find a 5W50 non-synthetic, so I think I have to choose between 5W30, 10W40, and 20W50. Since it'll be (hopefully still) warm when I get the car, I'm leaning toward 20W50
3/10/11, 08:14 AM
#14
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I have too. My dealer told me they never install the brackets on special order cars which means I'll be reminding them several more times once my car has been shippepd. 
I plan on dropping my oil after about 500 miles and will run full synthetic, probably Redline.
I plan on dropping my oil after about 500 miles and will run full synthetic, probably Redline.
3/10/11, 08:31 AM
#16
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I've done both. When I lived in Cali, I went without but didn't have a problem. Here in SC, we don't have front plates, nor vehicle inspections...love it!
3/10/11, 08:33 AM
#17
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There's one here in CA but they don't harrass you. My last ticket, in a speed trap with a dozen officers, was over two years ago and the officer did not even mention that I didn't have a front plate. Regardless if I needed to run a plate I'd buy a bracket that mounts under the front bumper instead of on the front of it.
3/10/11, 08:57 AM
#18
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I'm not sure if the engines are test run before shipping, but they are assembled in such a way, and the oil is spec'd to provide proper ring seating. The worst that can happen is the cylinders glaze. This is causes by oil that is not properly scrapped off and turns into a glass like substance and fills in all the hatch marks in the cylinders. The best way to prevent this is to run it on a dyno and get some load on the engine. This scrapes away and burns off the excess oil off the cylinders. This isn't going to happen when the engine is already in the car.Next best thing is to do a few wide open blast for a couple of seconds under load, but do not lug the engine. Row through the gears, get it up into third and lay into it for a second. Do this a few times and your good to go (same with an auto)
