Does anyone have a Brembo technical manual or directions for changing pads in our front Boss 302 calipers . I am " mechanically challenged".

Thanks

MAs MAN

 

No manual but I can type out the procedure here...

Tools needed:

1. 1/8" Flat Punch (To punch out slide pins)
2. 3/16" Flat Punch (To punch slide pins back in)
3. 3/16" Chisel (To leverage pads out of the caliper)
4. Rubber Mallet (For any activity requiring a few "technical taps")
5. Thin block of wood (about 1/2" thick) or Hand tool w/ long, rubberized grip (I prefer Channel Locks)--for piston compression.
6. 10mm wrench or socket (for opening bleeder screws if you prefer to do this during piston compression).
7. Bleeder bottle (if opening bleeder screws during piston compression).

Pad Change Procedure (I was going to type it out but it's just easier to post a video...the procedures are very much the same on our cars)



Note that if you open the bleeder screws during piston compression, you will need to bleed the brakes, unless using speedbleeders.

 

Thanks for the info !!

Regards

MAD MAN

 

Quick question: I have my drivers side front wheel off and am installing new Hawk pads. I don't have the passenger side off. The stock pads have tabs hanging off the bottom of both pads. My new Hawks have two pads with tabs and two without. Do I use the pads with tabs on the same side or use one on each wheel? If one on each wheel do the tabs go on the inside or outside pad?

TIA

 

Pics? Are there any directional arrows on them? Shouldn't matter where they go, but if the pads have a chamfer cut into one side of the friction material, those typcially face the rear of the vehicle.

 

After making a bunch of call I got it, the tabs go on the outside pads. Unlike the stock pads there are no chamfer cut into them. One down and one to go. Other than being a really long time since I've done this it's pretty easy.

Drew thanks for the video link it was very informative.

 

All the above info sounds good to me.
I use a 1/4"x2.5" bolt as a punch to drive the pins back in--keeps the hammer head away from the brake line. And the end of the bolt is recessed a bit to help prevent slipping off the pin.

 

nice video........ simplest breaks to change ever.....

 

Yeah they were easy to change and I changed the rotors too. I used the Full Tilt Boogie piston compressor tool that Gary recommended and it made the job even easier.

 

Which rotors are you using now?

 

My rotor preference...
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...nt-Brake-Rotor

Not worth spending the money on two-piece rotors unless you are participating in actual competition events, IMO.

 

Those are the ones I'm using on Drew's recommendation. They worked fine and are almost (but not quite) the same as OEM.

Since Drew brought this up can someone discuss the merits of two piece rotors? Besides weight what are the other advantages to two piece? I would imagine aluminum hats conduct less heat to the bearings yet at the same time help keep the braking surfaces cooler. Anything else? Saw a guy loose his brakes and take out another car today a lap after I passed them. Nobody was hurt but obviously brakes are VERY important.

 

Two piece rotors also generally have “directional” veins inside of the rotor that helps in cooling….

You also want to look for a true full sliding designs (Floating) this allows the disc to expand and contract freely without stressing the hat. This helps prevent the disc from warping or cracking.

Another benefit is unsprung mass by reducing unsprung weight (wheels and tires, brakes) this reduces rotational inertia and has the dual effect of improving both acceleration and suspension dynamics..

 

Well this is an old thread but need some help. I have been contact with Brembo about parts for the calipers on our cars. All i get is that these are made for Ford and go back thru Ford. Ford can not help me with what I want maybe you guys can. I Want the pad holding pins with the clips on one end to hold the pads in place vs the forced spring clips that are on the car now. I have had clip type pins in the past on my Brembo calipers.

 

i cant help you find the part, but if you know the car that had the part you are talking about it might be easier to go to that maker for parts.

 

Can you post a pic of your desired parts for better understanding?

I know where you can get the OEM stuff, not sure about what you're describing.

 

Always a good idea when your changing the brakes. Compressing the pistons without opening the bleeders can force trash back up the line and potentially damage the brake controller.