Last week I took my Boss to the 1/4 mile. Had severe wheel hop in first and a little bit in 2nd. Being that the Boss is supposed to have "stiffer suspension bushings", I was thinking the Boss would not get wheel hop. Slighlty disappointed. I know if I was better at the starting out, I could eliminate a lot of the wheel hop. Had the stock tires at 22 lbs cold. Ran a 12.9@ 111 mph. Another Boss 302 was there with a better driver and he ran a 12.6 @ 113 mph and had very little wheel hop (better driver). What I was wondering.... has anyone change out upper or lower control arms on there Boss yet. I was thinking that maybe just swapping out the UCA or possibly changing the bushings themselves might take care of the wheel hop issue. I want to get rid of the wheel hop, but I also want to race SCCA solo events, so I also want my car to still handle properly. Any thoughts on this?

 

A buddy of mine cured this on his 11 5.0 with an upper roush set-up, bracket and control arm, stock LCA runs 12 teens with DR's, no hop, had it bad prior to this

 

First I am hearing about hop on a Boss. Have not run low pressure or quarter mile with mine but it always plants well on the street and track at normal pressure no matter which tire I am using. Let us know how it turns out.

 

I got mine to bunny hop in 1st on cold tires. I don't do much of that though so not a big issue for me. I could see how a drag racer would need to fix that.

 

I have BMR upper and lower control arms coming. Friend of mine went 12.41 with a little wheel hop but not to bad he said.

 

I tried mine and was getting it a lot in the first 3 gears whenever I got on it.
It was cool out and I am going to try again with less tire pressure and hopefully
warmer weather. Anybody here have experance with DR's and how it worked vs
the stock tires?

 

its kinda of makes sense tho. The Boss is not a drag car. Its a top end motor corner beast.

 

The smaller the wheel the better it is in deflecting wheelhop. That is due to the fact that a larger sidewalled tire is more able to absorb the impact vs. a low profile tire which basically absorbs nothing and blasts the suspension immediately.

 

Try a set of DRs. Or even ET streets. Would like to see what they run with a good 60ft. You may still get some hop on launch but that should take care of 2nd and 3rd for sure. I'm running Nitto drags and don't spin 2nd or 3rd unless I shift early and try to spin it.

 

The Boss is a factory competition style car. Hence the adjustable shocks, which in the supplement clearly states the recommended drag racing shock settings, and if we ever get the Trackkey, the launch control which is mainly needed for drag racing. Let's just say that the boss has quite the unfair advantage over most cars and can dance on just about any stage

 

The class I run is "street" class in a Mustangs only drag racing club. I have to run street tires only. No drag radials. I could run Nitto 555's, but i think the stock Pirelli's are a stickier tire. And I bet launch control would help me also. I think I am going to just try and UCA and go from there. Just would like to know if thats is going to resolve the hop or will I need LCA's too?

 

Yes they are, the Pirelli Pzero is Treadwear 220 Traction AA and Temperature A - the 555's are Treadwear 300 Traction A and Temperature A. I have to admit the 555's held their own out on the road course considering they cost a lot less (once they heat cycled). Too bad you can't run them as the 555 come in NT555R drag radial.
http://nittotire.com/index.html#index.tire.nt555r

 

Not sure about the rating but Toyo R888 may be an option. Heard good things about them.

 

since I plan on running my BOSS at the drags also, and wheel hop seems to be an issue,as with all mustangs with stock suspension, I decided to do some reinforcing on the stock upper control arm off of my buddies 11 5.0, I welded some stiffners onto the brackets and filled the bushing with some 3M fast curing urethane, will see if this takes care of it before spending 300.00 on a new one, will let everyone know how it works in a few weeks when I go out

 

From a comparison of the Roush arm vs. the stock arm, the issue seems to be with the bushings themselves. Roush replaces the UCA bushing with the same type of bushing that is in the rearend UCA mounting point.

There is some odd frequency modulation with the stock UCA bushing that causes the wheel hop.

 

What are folks doing to prep for a 1/4 mile run?
Shock setting, tire pressure. I am looking to try again and would like to hook up a bit better this time and have less hop.

 

Thanks for the input, figured since I had the part to try it on, would just be the labor I spend swapping it out, so what the heck,why not try, so are you saying the bushing on the rear end housing is the same dimension wise, or just that they use the same style-durometor bushing

 

Copy/Pasted from origin.