Boss balking shifting at high rpm when HOT
#1
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Boss balking shifting at high rpm when HOT my answer
Boss 302 # 2322 Built Oct 2011
Mods that could effect shifting on my car. I am running Redline MTL as I wanted a thicker fluid for the FL heat, SRF brake/clutch fluid, Steeda Shift Bracket and JHR Clutch Line. My TX has always been a good shifter in normal operation with no grinding or other shifting issues.
The problem, when at the Track ie Road Course after a couple of laps the TX would not cleanly shift either up or down mainly the 4 to 5 and 5 to 4 shift. It would refuse to go into gear until the rpm dropped which could take upwards of .5 sec which was really frustrating. I did not believe it was the shifter as it shifts fine in normal operation and decided it was acting like a clutch that was full releasing when it got HOT ie weak fingers. Some people have had luck with changing the shifter, Clutch fluid and adding the JHR, or equivalent, clutch line. For those people I am very happy.
My solution was to change out the stock clutch for an aftermarket clutch to see if my theory was correct. TJ @ TrickPro Motorsports decided we should try the RAM Dual Disc clutch which didn't fix the problem as it had issues of its own. See https://themustangsource.com/f813/ra...s-fail-511076/ Plan B consisted of installing a McLeod RST Street Twin Series Clutch + McLeod Lightweight Steel Flywheel. Picked up da Boss Friday with the new clutch and proceded to give it a quick break in around town with multiple shifts to bed it. The clutch was a little grabby in 1st when I picked up the car but after break in it smoothed out nicely. Pedal effort seems a little higher than stock but not significantly so and I actually like the feel better.
The test day. Saturday I went to PBIR with HOD to see if I had found a solution for my shifting issue. It was 90 degrees and we were running 30 minute sessions. Folks I solved my problem da Boss shifted perfectly on the 1st lap and the last lap of each session with no change in shifting effort. I ran 3 sessons with the same results every session.
Conclusion I am not saying that the clutch I installed is the only clutch that would solve this issue, it is really overkill being rated for 900+ ft/lb of Torque, but it did solve my problem.
TJ and TrickPro were awesome during the whole process which took longer than either of us would have liked. The up shot was TJ did a second R&R of the TX to take out the RAM clutch and install the McLeod clutch at no charge to me. Big thumbs up to a great guy and friend. I also did do the right thing after he told me no charge and gave him a large tip $$ for doing the right thing. http://trickpro.net/
AlsCobra gets some credit for this as he was instrumental in confirming my theory in theory.
Peter
Mods that could effect shifting on my car. I am running Redline MTL as I wanted a thicker fluid for the FL heat, SRF brake/clutch fluid, Steeda Shift Bracket and JHR Clutch Line. My TX has always been a good shifter in normal operation with no grinding or other shifting issues.
The problem, when at the Track ie Road Course after a couple of laps the TX would not cleanly shift either up or down mainly the 4 to 5 and 5 to 4 shift. It would refuse to go into gear until the rpm dropped which could take upwards of .5 sec which was really frustrating. I did not believe it was the shifter as it shifts fine in normal operation and decided it was acting like a clutch that was full releasing when it got HOT ie weak fingers. Some people have had luck with changing the shifter, Clutch fluid and adding the JHR, or equivalent, clutch line. For those people I am very happy.
My solution was to change out the stock clutch for an aftermarket clutch to see if my theory was correct. TJ @ TrickPro Motorsports decided we should try the RAM Dual Disc clutch which didn't fix the problem as it had issues of its own. See https://themustangsource.com/f813/ra...s-fail-511076/ Plan B consisted of installing a McLeod RST Street Twin Series Clutch + McLeod Lightweight Steel Flywheel. Picked up da Boss Friday with the new clutch and proceded to give it a quick break in around town with multiple shifts to bed it. The clutch was a little grabby in 1st when I picked up the car but after break in it smoothed out nicely. Pedal effort seems a little higher than stock but not significantly so and I actually like the feel better.
The test day. Saturday I went to PBIR with HOD to see if I had found a solution for my shifting issue. It was 90 degrees and we were running 30 minute sessions. Folks I solved my problem da Boss shifted perfectly on the 1st lap and the last lap of each session with no change in shifting effort. I ran 3 sessons with the same results every session.
Conclusion I am not saying that the clutch I installed is the only clutch that would solve this issue, it is really overkill being rated for 900+ ft/lb of Torque, but it did solve my problem.
TJ and TrickPro were awesome during the whole process which took longer than either of us would have liked. The up shot was TJ did a second R&R of the TX to take out the RAM clutch and install the McLeod clutch at no charge to me. Big thumbs up to a great guy and friend. I also did do the right thing after he told me no charge and gave him a large tip $$ for doing the right thing. http://trickpro.net/
AlsCobra gets some credit for this as he was instrumental in confirming my theory in theory.
Peter
Last edited by OLOABoss; 7/9/12 at 05:16 PM.
#2
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Boss 302 # 2322 Built Oct 2012
Mods that could effect shifting on my car. I am running Redline MTL as I wanted a thicker fluid for the FL heat, SRF brake/clutch fluid, Steeda Shift Bracket and JHR Clutch Line. My TX has always been a good shifter in normal operation with no grinding or other shifting issues.
The problem, when at the Track ie Road Course after a couple of laps the TX would not cleanly shift either up or down mainly the 4 to 5 and 5 to 4 shift. It would refuse to go into gear until the rpm dropped which could take upwards of .5 sec which was really frustrating. I did not believe it was the shifter as it shifts fine in normal operation and decided it was acting like a clutch that was full releasing when it got HOT ie weak fingers. Some people have had luck with changing the shifter, Clutch fluid and adding the JHR, or equivalent, clutch line. For those people I am very happy.
My solution was to change out the stock clutch for an aftermarket clutch to see if my theory was correct. TJ @ TrickPro Motorsports decided we should try the RAM Dual Disc clutch which didn't fix the problem as it had issues of its own. See https://themustangsource.com/f813/ra...s-fail-511076/ Plan B consisted of installing a McLeod RST Street Twin Series Clutch + McLeod Lightweight Steel Flywheel. Picked up da Boss Friday with the new clutch and proceded to give it a quick break in around town with multiple shifts to bed it. The clutch was a little grabby in 1st when I picked up the car but after break in it smoothed out nicely. Pedal effort seems a little higher than stock but not significantly so and I actually like the feel better.
The test day. Saturday I went to PBIR with HOD to see if I had found a solution for my shifting issue. It was 90 degrees and we were running 30 minute sessions. Folks I solved my problem da Boss shifted perfectly on the 1st lap and the last lap of each session with no change in shifting effort. I ran 3 sessons with the same results every session.
Conclusion I am not saying that the clutch I installed is the only clutch that would solve this issue, it is really overkill being rated for 900+ ft/lb of Torque, but it did solve my problem.
TJ and TrickPro were awesome during the whole process which took longer than either of us would have liked. The up shot was TJ did a second R&R of the TX to take out the RAM clutch and install the McLeod clutch at no charge to me. Big thumbs up to a great guy and friend. I also did do the right thing after he told me no charge and gave him a large tip $$ for doing the right thing. http://trickpro.net/
AlsCobra gets some credit for this as he was instrumental in confirming my theory in theory.
Peter
Mods that could effect shifting on my car. I am running Redline MTL as I wanted a thicker fluid for the FL heat, SRF brake/clutch fluid, Steeda Shift Bracket and JHR Clutch Line. My TX has always been a good shifter in normal operation with no grinding or other shifting issues.
The problem, when at the Track ie Road Course after a couple of laps the TX would not cleanly shift either up or down mainly the 4 to 5 and 5 to 4 shift. It would refuse to go into gear until the rpm dropped which could take upwards of .5 sec which was really frustrating. I did not believe it was the shifter as it shifts fine in normal operation and decided it was acting like a clutch that was full releasing when it got HOT ie weak fingers. Some people have had luck with changing the shifter, Clutch fluid and adding the JHR, or equivalent, clutch line. For those people I am very happy.
My solution was to change out the stock clutch for an aftermarket clutch to see if my theory was correct. TJ @ TrickPro Motorsports decided we should try the RAM Dual Disc clutch which didn't fix the problem as it had issues of its own. See https://themustangsource.com/f813/ra...s-fail-511076/ Plan B consisted of installing a McLeod RST Street Twin Series Clutch + McLeod Lightweight Steel Flywheel. Picked up da Boss Friday with the new clutch and proceded to give it a quick break in around town with multiple shifts to bed it. The clutch was a little grabby in 1st when I picked up the car but after break in it smoothed out nicely. Pedal effort seems a little higher than stock but not significantly so and I actually like the feel better.
The test day. Saturday I went to PBIR with HOD to see if I had found a solution for my shifting issue. It was 90 degrees and we were running 30 minute sessions. Folks I solved my problem da Boss shifted perfectly on the 1st lap and the last lap of each session with no change in shifting effort. I ran 3 sessons with the same results every session.
Conclusion I am not saying that the clutch I installed is the only clutch that would solve this issue, it is really overkill being rated for 900+ ft/lb of Torque, but it did solve my problem.
TJ and TrickPro were awesome during the whole process which took longer than either of us would have liked. The up shot was TJ did a second R&R of the TX to take out the RAM clutch and install the McLeod clutch at no charge to me. Big thumbs up to a great guy and friend. I also did do the right thing after he told me no charge and gave him a large tip $$ for doing the right thing. http://trickpro.net/
AlsCobra gets some credit for this as he was instrumental in confirming my theory in theory.
Peter
Thanks for sharing your experiences and the fix to your shifting problems with your Boss.
Last edited by SoFlaBoss; 10/29/12 at 03:44 PM.
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Thanks for sharing your experiences and the fix to your shifting problems with your Boss. My Boss has given me trouble shifting from 3rd to 4th at high RPM. When it happens the clutch remains engaged and the clutch pedal stays down near the floor until the RPMs drop back down and the clutch "recovers". It's definitely nice to know that the McLeod RST Street Twin Series Clutch + McLeod Lightweight Steel Flywheel solved your problems.
BTW, according to the information above your Boss hasn't been built. Mine (#2970) was built Dec 2011.
BTW, according to the information above your Boss hasn't been built. Mine (#2970) was built Dec 2011.
#6
This fixed my shifting issue (which only happened at the track and HOT temps):
I had the Energy Suspension's shifter bushing (part#4.1134 cost about $16)
installed on Friday BEFORE the ECR/Five Star Ford Track day.
NO missed shifts ALL day long even in 90+ degrees heat and after several sessions.
I bought my bushing @ Dallas Mustang (see Archie) and installed @ Five Star Ford in Plano, TX (see Corey)
I had the Energy Suspension's shifter bushing (part#4.1134 cost about $16)
installed on Friday BEFORE the ECR/Five Star Ford Track day.
NO missed shifts ALL day long even in 90+ degrees heat and after several sessions.
I bought my bushing @ Dallas Mustang (see Archie) and installed @ Five Star Ford in Plano, TX (see Corey)
#7
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This issue happened with me as well and it was recently fixed by modding the pedal box. I removed the assist spring because people have stated that it will bind, which is why it sticks to the floor. Without the assist spring the pedal is heavier but more linear and you can pull those 7k+ shifts off without worry of the pedal staying buried.
Peter
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Glad the pedal box mod fixed your problem. In my situation the pedal box has nothing to with preventing the clutch from releasing fully. I didn't upgrade the shifter for the same reason. There are probably several different issues which are different ie sticking pedal.
Peter
Peter
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Some seem to be better ie the later TX with coated gears don't seem to have the grinding synchro problem of the earlier units. I do believe the pedal box clutch helper spring configuration was changed in later builds. Crank sensor relearn seems to have taken care of the 0300 random misfire limp mode issue. Engine cooling is still a problem, more for some than others. Pulling the grill does seem to work but they still run high for my taste. Cloud9 has spent $$$$ on radiator, oil cooler, Tiger Racing hood, which I thought would be the answer, but he is still having heat issues. I feel I have eliminated my TX and shifting issues with the McLeod clutch but only time will tell for sure. A better shifter would be nice but I don't think the stock one is that bad as I don't speed shift and slam gears.
Peter
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Don't know if you have seen what the stock shifter looks like but after I had mine out and in my hand I coudn't believe how crappy it really is,....the reverse lockout specially,...my Boss had only a couple k on it when I replaced it with the MGW shifter and the plastic parts where already showing way to much wear for the mileage.....don't think slamming gears is the issue here, if not now then soon, this linkage will be an issue for everyone....just my two cents.
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This is what I am dreading, I think I am in the same boat as several others that are willing to save up a buy the new T56 Magnum and all the accoutrements to get it to work. It is sad Ford made such a perfect car and then ****ed it up with a cheap trans. I wonder if they use the MT82 in the Boss 302S, I mean if they do then fine, but if they don't what makes them think the people buying the car would want such a crap shoot trans.
#12
This is what I am dreading, I think I am in the same boat as several others that are willing to save up a buy the new T56 Magnum and all the accoutrements to get it to work. It is sad Ford made such a perfect car and then ****ed it up with a cheap trans. I wonder if they use the MT82 in the Boss 302S, I mean if they do then fine, but if they don't what makes them think the people buying the car would want such a crap shoot trans.
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I think the transmission is passable for the intended purpose of the car , but the moniker of "race car for the street" falls very short in this area backed up by a shifter I wouldn't be happy with in a Yugo , don't like the two piece drive shaft either,...another carry over from the lesser Mustangs,....the rest of the car hits all the marks tho for me. I really feel,.... although gearing is right,....the drive line....tranny/shifter/driveshaft/clutch....are weak points in the Bosses , and I have never had to work so hard to shift a car and get it right,..it should be instintual and done with little thought......just my opinion and by all means I am very happy with my Boss,....I have addressed all these issues with the exception of the MT82..which is better now, but still not ideal.....if it goes south on me it will be replaced with a Tremec.
Last edited by cf6mech; 7/10/12 at 09:22 PM.
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I think the Tremec is the say to go with me as well. That is my main reason for trying to learn the shifter and clutch and not replace anything substantially expensive. However I just spent roughly 300 on brake ducting, but that's to save me money, or so I tell myself.
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Tremec may sound like the Easy Button but it sure isn't the inexpensive button. Wrong gearing needs much shorter final drive, Drive Shaft and clutch/flywheel (well the stock tranny needs clutch/flywheel also so that's a wash) I would like somebody besides me being the Test Mule this one. In fact if that is what it takes ultimately, I have a Boss For Sale by Owner.
Peter
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