I was just being a wisea$$ but sometimes you can not beat the old fashion ways. I do have speed bleeders on now and that helps not having to open and close the valve every time but I still do it with two people to keep on eye out at the wheel.

This has never been scientifically proven to work but I always bleed brakes like this. Having someone step on the pedal until there is new fluid and no air. Then for the last time I have them pump it up a few times with the valve closed, I open it just about a quarter turn, have them step hard and they tell me when the pedal is half way down, not all the way to the floor. I close the valve at this point and always get a nice firm pedal.

Had a friend with an LS do the bleeding with the speed bleeders, he told me the pedal was low and did not feel right. I did it my way with him and he told me it was higher and felt much better. Just a thought.

 

Scott,

That's one of the benfits of using the Motive bleeders. They keep a constant pressure on the system and you just close the bleed screw when you've flowed as much fluid as you want. Between that and using the Super Blue & Amber to see when a flush is complete it's a pretty nice system. I've flushed the fluid on my truck several times this way and on the Boss once so far. I for one live kinda in the sticks and there's not always someone around to pump the pedal, which I did a million times on the Falcon.

I did notice a difference from the truck and the Boss. On the truck with 5-10 psi it would just flow. On the Boss I'd have to pump the brakes to make it flow under the same conditions. No big deal but just though I'd pass that info along.

 

Interesting Scott.
I've simply pumped then closed all 6 bleeders. When I'm all done, the pedal needs a couple pumps to firm up.
Next swap, I'll try your technique. Even with the speed bleeders, the wife still helps so I can watch the resevour fluid level.

 

If you think about it, this does not make sense. If there is no air in the line all should be good. However I swear by the way I do it, it has worked well for me for many years and I personally would not do it differently.

One tip I did pick up from the MultiMatic team watching them change a master at Daytona is leaving the cap off when bleeding. I was always afraid of fluid spilling out (60's, 70's car this would happen) and getting moisture in the fluid while working. The newer style masters will not spit fluid out so I now bleed with the cap off.

Andy
Good info and I don't doubt anyone's way of doing this. I am just getting old and stuck in my ways

 

Yep, going to try it with the cap off the master cylinder and see how it goes.

 

Here's a thread with pics on another forum. I wonder who wrote it?

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/52...with-pics.html