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Ticking noise on the left side of engine 2014 5.0

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Old 10/22/20, 07:41 AM
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Ticking noise on the left side of engine 2014 5.0

Hi,

I just bought a 5.0 2014 with 65k miles.
And i have been notice a ticking noise on the left side of engine i really have no idea what is that for
people been telling me its a valve lifter and i hope its another slightly issue it's not that high sound
sometimes its disappear

i'm using 5w20 Ford Motorcraft oil i also have changed the transmission oil with a set of spark plugs
any idea will help i'm living in a city which have no idea how to deal with ford mustang
Old 10/22/20, 04:17 PM
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Plenty threads with similar issues out there and I can only speak from my own experience. That being said, mine got short-block replaced under warranty and the tick went silent.

Call it cheap materials used or design flaw, it’s disappointing to hear the same problem continues happening in later model years even with glorious gt350 voodoo Engines.

Fortunately yours doesn’t seem very severe saying it comes and goes. My advise is to ignore it. The motorcraft 5w20 is good, there’s no advantage with other brands (ex. mobil1, amsoil...etc) nor different weights, I know I have tried.

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the car. Take some pictures.




Last edited by PonyMuscletang13; 10/22/20 at 04:21 PM.
Old 10/22/20, 06:05 PM
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Ok, so you need to try to find out if it's on the valvetrain side or the bottom end side. And which cylinder. It's going to probably require a mechanics stethoscope. Yes, the sound will travel up the cylinder from the bottom end. Behold:

It *could* be the valve train somewhere. A cam follower, a follower adjuster, maybe the cam bearing pedestal... But it could also be a rod bearing. I read a story on (mumbles competitor website) that describes one intrepid Mustanger's woes with his 5.0 Coyote. He had a tick. It would at first come and go, putting in 5w30 Mobil 1 made it not as prominent... but it stayed around nonetheless. He had to live with while his other car was being LS swapped due to a blown motor in it. Right up until the ticking got *bad*... like a knock instead. Took it somewhere, they wanted 7-10K to replace the motor. He says "nah man" and takes it home, puts a 2x6 on the bay, ratchet straps the engine up, takes the K-member out, oil pan off, and sure enough the number 1 rod bearings had spun. However, the crank was within spec and shiny like it should be. So he goes to Summit, gets an OEM replacement rod bearing set, slaps it in, reassembles everything, and tada. Cost him 5 bucks, a 2x6, and time and effort.

You can find it by searching "Coyote 5.0 tick". It'll show up. Site rhymes with 'fanglet'. Quite the story. Might also include 'dreaded' in that search, may show it up faster.

Point being, be careful, it really isn't something to just try to placate with oil or babying, as it may be a potential time bomb. Address it now before the engine is potentially toast. BE SURE you know where that tick is coming from. And if you can't figure it out, take it somewhere. It may be better than waiting by far. Like a Fram commercial... pay a little now, or a lot later.

/Except don't buy Fram stuff. The slogan is good, but the filter's not.
//And yes, Ford says a little 'sewing machine' type tick is fine. Sure. Maybe. I'd rather know for sure.

Last edited by houtex; 10/22/20 at 06:07 PM.
Old 10/22/20, 11:09 PM
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I'd pull the valve cover and check the roller rockers. One or more of the rockers roller bearing may be starting to fail.
Old 10/24/20, 05:28 PM
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Thanks for ur reply, really apricate your help,

I really hope its a common problem for all mustang's rather than only my car, because i like the car i don't want to get concern about everything about it
The first owner of the car was using 10w30 he thinks its better, i assume he ruined the engine.


i will take a good pictures for the car soon, just want to settle down with all issues
Old 10/24/20, 05:30 PM
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Plenty threads with similar issues out there and I can only speak from my own experience. That being said, mine got short-block replaced under warranty and the tick went silent.

Call it cheap materials used or design flaw, it’s disappointing to hear the same problem continues happening in later model years even with glorious gt350 voodoo Engines.

Fortunately yours doesn’t seem very severe saying it comes and goes. My advise is to ignore it. The motorcraft 5w20 is good, there’s no advantage with other brands (ex. mobil1, amsoil...etc) nor different weights, I know I have tried.

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the car. Take some pictures.
Thanks for ur reply, really apricate your help,

I really hope its a common problem for all mustang's rather than only my car, because i like the car i don't want to get concern about everything about it
The first owner of the car was using 10w30 he thinks its better, i assume he ruined the engine.


i will take a good pictures for the car soon, just want to settle down with all issues
Old 10/25/20, 10:34 AM
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Hm. Maybe he did. 10w30 is less viscious at both cold and hot temperatures, so it's possible the thinner oil caused bearing or other wear. Run some Engine Restore in the thing if you're concerned. It may work, Project Farm did it for a diesel Ford tractor, one of the cylinders went from 230psi to 285psi(!) and the rest also got up to 290 from 260-280.


Project Farm is an excellent resource for such testing of things. He's why I'm a proponent of Liquid Wrench Penetrant over all others. That stuff works. His video proved it,I went out and got it, and hot dang, that exhaust nut came *right* off where everything else save a propane/MAP torch didn't.

So anyway, Engine Restore may fix your tick. May not. It obviously does something to seal/build up things to they work better for compression, and it's supposed to do the same for bearings. However, I can't say if it's advised in an engine what uses the oil to vary the timing on the cams. If it got to a point of 'what do I got to lose', though, you can bet I'd throw it in there... Worst case scenario the TiVCT solenoids will need replacing/cleaning, but I bet it's fine, and actually would help those too.

Only other option is a tear down, which I'm assuming you're tryin' to avoid, yes?

Last edited by houtex; 10/25/20 at 10:39 AM.
Old 10/30/20, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by houtex
Hm. Maybe he did. 10w30 is less viscious at both cold and hot temperatures, so it's possible the thinner oil caused bearing or other wear. Run some Engine Restore in the thing if you're concerned. It may work, Project Farm did it for a diesel Ford tractor, one of the cylinders went from 230psi to 285psi(!) and the rest also got up to 290 from 260-280.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr8jIwVyIFE

Project Farm is an excellent resource for such testing of things. He's why I'm a proponent of Liquid Wrench Penetrant over all others. That stuff works. His video proved it,I went out and got it, and hot dang, that exhaust nut came *right* off where everything else save a propane/MAP torch didn't.

So anyway, Engine Restore may fix your tick. May not. It obviously does something to seal/build up things to they work better for compression, and it's supposed to do the same for bearings. However, I can't say if it's advised in an engine what uses the oil to vary the timing on the cams. If it got to a point of 'what do I got to lose', though, you can bet I'd throw it in there... Worst case scenario the TiVCT solenoids will need replacing/cleaning, but I bet it's fine, and actually would help those too.

Only other option is a tear down, which I'm assuming you're tryin' to avoid, yes?
Yes exactly i'm tryn' avoid this..

too bad for me i went twice to a mechanical when arrive the ticking is disappear, really appreciate your advise about rod bearing but i have watched multiple videos of rod bearing, its totally different noise than mine.
what's is confusing me here that ticking is come and go, is it common problem for mustang's? because i have seen videos of 2019 have the same issue

Old 5/29/24, 09:27 PM
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Good Ticking Info Here!

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