Factory Exhaust Bolt Loose
#1
Mach 1 Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
Join Date: June 17, 2011
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Factory Exhaust Bolt Loose
I just wanted to post this so people could check theirs.
I was installing my x pipe last night and when I was taking the nuts off of the studs at the collectors I noticed one was not tight from the factory. It was the one on the passenger side of the passenger side collector. The one closest to the passenger door. This one is pretty hard to get to from under the car, I used a few extensions and reached it from the engine bay. The other bolts were very tight, this one was borderline finger tight.
I know some people have complained about ticking noises and never knew exactly where they were coming from, I have heard MANY exhaust leaks make a ticking noise.
If you have a few 3/8" drive extensions take a deep 15 mm socket and see if that nut is loose, especially if you have a tick you can't find. You don't have to remove anything to get to it, or even jack the car up.
I was installing my x pipe last night and when I was taking the nuts off of the studs at the collectors I noticed one was not tight from the factory. It was the one on the passenger side of the passenger side collector. The one closest to the passenger door. This one is pretty hard to get to from under the car, I used a few extensions and reached it from the engine bay. The other bolts were very tight, this one was borderline finger tight.
I know some people have complained about ticking noises and never knew exactly where they were coming from, I have heard MANY exhaust leaks make a ticking noise.
If you have a few 3/8" drive extensions take a deep 15 mm socket and see if that nut is loose, especially if you have a tick you can't find. You don't have to remove anything to get to it, or even jack the car up.
![Th Smiley Salute](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/th_smiley_salute.gif)
#3
Mach 1 Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
Join Date: June 17, 2011
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The front nuts on the studs at the collectors are a little more tricky. It just takes a little time to get the ratchet or wrench in there (I had to use both depending on which one I was taking off) and they were on pretty tight. Some PB Blaster would come in really handy here, they kinda "drug" the whole way off. I think that happens to bolts that get really hot. Then I got that one off from inside the engine bay using ~24" of extensions lol.
After that you can just lower the front down (I had to push back a little to get it to clear the subframe) then slide the stock h pipe forward out of the rear section. The clamps at the rear came off pretty easy after I put a screwdriver behind that weird clip thing.
Thats as far as I got last night, I will update with more comments later after I put the X pipe on if you want.
#5
Shelby GT350 Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Originally Posted by blackgt87
After getting the car in the air, it took about 4 minutes (no joke) to get the rear nuts/clamps off. They point straight down and are very easy to reach.
The front nuts on the studs at the collectors are a little more tricky. It just takes a little time to get the ratchet or wrench in there (I had to use both depending on which one I was taking off) and they were on pretty tight. Some PB Blaster would come in really handy here, they kinda "drug" the whole way off. I think that happens to bolts that get really hot. Then I got that one off from inside the engine bay using ~24" of extensions lol.
After that you can just lower the front down (I had to push back a little to get it to clear the subframe) then slide the stock h pipe forward out of the rear section. The clamps at the rear came off pretty easy after I put a screwdriver behind that weird clip thing.
Thats as far as I got last night, I will update with more comments later after I put the X pipe on if you want.
#6
Cobra R Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Join Date: June 17, 2010
Location: Southeastern Virginia
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know I am really reaching here, but was that leak anywhere near the transmission or clutch at all? Any chance it could create a high-temp situation that could be contributing to the 6MT clutch/tranny issues?
![Dunno](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#7
Mach 1 Member
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
![](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/rank.gif)
Thread Starter
Join Date: June 17, 2011
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a couple hours ago as I finished installed the x pipe it occured to me, my transmission was replaced at the dealer. Who would have taken my exhaust off to get it out. That's probably who left the nut loose on that header.
Oh and installing the x pipe is a breeze. Mine bolted right up.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post