The dealer replaced clutch, PP, flywheel, pilot bushing, maybe 5-6 weeks
ago on my 2011 v6 performance package.

I have had a terrible time getting used to it, and I think the problem is the old clutch
stuck to the floor reported on new 11 and 12, way back.

The friction point is very high, almost all the way up.
The action seems "lighter" than the original.
Shifting at high RPM never goes good, and this is where the
stuck to the floor observation came to light.

It seems it should be naturally bled after a couple miles (1000 about),
and if not?

One fix offered a lot (net, videos), is take off the helper spring ... this
seems like a bad idea. There are how to take it off, and putting it back
is not covered much, but can probably be done.

Second most offered fix, the hydraulic line from the TOB to
the reservoir... replace with a rubber/braided stainless line.

Maybe I am just having trouble adapting to the new clutch. Been
driving a manual from the start (dam, now I'm depressed, that would
be like 38 years).

Appreciate any comments/suggestions. Thanks!

 

Remove the little helper spring and enjoy your newfound "man pedal".
I haven't had that spring in my car for about 4 years now, no issues.
My car used to give me the pedal-lazy-to-return thing after a WOT run to the redline, that's been gone ever since I removed that stupid little spring.

And completely ignore what people say that removing it can lead to slave cylinder damage.
That's B.S to get you to spend $15-$20 on the Steeda spring that probably costs them 15 cents.

 

Another option is the lighter spring that Steeda sells:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s197-m...11-14-all.html

 

But it's really not needed.
Steeda actually says that without their $20 15-cent spring you'll damage your slave cylinder.
That's a lie, and I find it unscrupulous of them to do that.

 

Might take out the spring this weekend, see how it goes!

Will this move the friction point lower? It is up high, with the
pedal almost all the way out - like 2 inches at most.

Thanks!