What is the best audio setup iyo?
8/19/13, 12:31 AM
#1
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What is the best audio setup iyo?
Hey guys, I wanna know what is (in your opinion) the best audio setup in terms of quality and bass (solely for music). Quality as in 1080p+ HD audio, like something I'd get from some $400 headphones. I have a base '13, no tech package, no nothing, and the audio is pretty good but not amazing. Do I need a new head unit? I don't know much about this stuff at all. I don't want a GPS system, SYNC, or anything like that. I just want an AMAZING sound system that'll play my iPhone's music from an aux port. Maybe some subwoofers in the trunk, etc. Price is irrelevant, but the cheaper the better. Thanks.
8/19/13, 02:20 PM
#2
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Hey guys, I wanna know what is (in your opinion) the best audio setup in terms of quality and bass (solely for music). Quality as in 1080p+ HD audio, like something I'd get from some $400 headphones. I have a base '13, no tech package, no nothing, and the audio is pretty good but not amazing. Do I need a new head unit? I don't know much about this stuff at all. I don't want a GPS system, SYNC, or anything like that. I just want an AMAZING sound system that'll play my iPhone's music from an aux port. Maybe some subwoofers in the trunk, etc. Price is irrelevant, but the cheaper the better. Thanks.
Second - "1080p HD audio" is a mash-up of technologies. "1080p HD" refers to VIDEO quality (1920 x 1080 progressive-scan). "HD Audio" could mean "DVD-Audio" or "SACD Audio", or for that matter "HD Radio", which refer to digital formats for music playback (each with their own benefits and drawbacks".
Third - an iPod is NOT a high-quality media playback device. MP3's by definition are lossy, and even if your collection is recorded in 320kbps (assuming you're not buying everything through iTunes and getting AAC lossless format stuff), it's not going to be the best source material possible.
Fourth - an "AUX" jack is not the best way of playing audio from an iPod (or any other device for that matter), as it's an analog connection. It's susceptible to interference and limited bandwidth.
Fifth - the factory deck and speakers are garbage, plain and simple. If you plan on doing ANYTHING of decent quality it will require a complete rip-out and replacement, including wiring.
Sixth - what's your level of experience with car audio installation? This is not something you can do (well) in an afternoon anymore (dating myself, I know). It will require days if not weeks of work. Would you be better off taking this to a professional shop and letting them do it for you? Something to think about.
Anyway, let us know your budget and we'll start there. Several others will probably chime in - there is no "right" answer, just the right answer for you.
8/19/13, 03:17 PM
#3
8/20/13, 01:24 AM
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If I knew any answers then I wouldn't be asking these questions haha.
And you really destroyed my post. I like that you did because it brings up some more valuable points. First, what is the best device to play HD audio or whatever the correct term is? I have an iPhone 5. Also, what is the best method of connecting the music? The aux port isn't HD?
Budget-wise, let's start with a respectable $1000. Thanks for the help.
And you really destroyed my post. I like that you did because it brings up some more valuable points. First, what is the best device to play HD audio or whatever the correct term is? I have an iPhone 5. Also, what is the best method of connecting the music? The aux port isn't HD?
Budget-wise, let's start with a respectable $1000. Thanks for the help.
8/20/13, 09:06 AM
#5
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If I knew any answers then I wouldn't be asking these questions haha.
And you really destroyed my post. I like that you did because it brings up some more valuable points. First, what is the best device to play HD audio or whatever the correct term is? I have an iPhone 5. Also, what is the best method of connecting the music? The aux port isn't HD?
Budget-wise, let's start with a respectable $1000. Thanks for the help.
And you really destroyed my post. I like that you did because it brings up some more valuable points. First, what is the best device to play HD audio or whatever the correct term is? I have an iPhone 5. Also, what is the best method of connecting the music? The aux port isn't HD?
Budget-wise, let's start with a respectable $1000. Thanks for the help.
As for source - you need to look at what format your source material is available in. SACD or DVD Audio will give you the best sound quality, but they are dying formats and there's not a lot of music out there in Disc form anymore (some of us remember when music came on 8-track tapes!).
Since you have an iPhone 5, you'll want to use USB connected via the lightning connector. That will give you a digital signal from the iPhone into the head unit. the iPhone 5 can play music recorded in mp3 (lossy) or ALAC (lossless), as well as a few other odd formats. The problem is most head units won't play ALAC files, so you'll have to use the iPhone as the playback device. The other issue with ALAC is that the files, compared to mp3, take up a lot more space, so fewer songs per device. Combine this with the fact that you need to convert your music to ALAC to begin with, and it starts to become a big chore.
Having said all that, let's assume your music library is in mp3 format. Mp3 has many quality settings, most commonly 128k (which sounds like a cassette tape with Dolby B on, IMO). Mp3's recorded at 320k sound much better. There's still some issues, but it's mostly acceptable, especially in a car environment, and especially especially in a Mustang! So I would rip all my music to 320k.
Since we're now focusing on mp3 as our source material, that opens up several avenues for playback. USB thumb drives work well, and they don't tie up your iPhone. Regardless of if you use your iPhone or a USB drive, you still need something to connect it to. Here's where we need to start getting picky....
Believe it or not, the first thing I'm going to point out doesn't have anything to do with the sound system at all...it's going to be a piece of plastic. Specifically, it'll be the dash kit you'll need to mount your new radio into the car. There are 2 companies so far (with a 3rd coming soon). This piece alone is going to cost you somewhere around $200 - $300, depending on which version you choose. Given your $1,000 budget, that leaves $700 for a head unit, speakers, subs, amps, and wire (assuming you're doing all the labor yourself).
Next up is the head unit. Since all you need is audio (no GPS, etc.), you can go with a single-DIN unit. I would recommend a higher-end unit like the Pioneer DEX-P99RS but that's going to be out of your price range, and it needs separate amps. Let's look at something more economical like the Alpine CDE-HD149BT unit. $300 ($400 remaining). Good performance, lots of features, and it's an Alpine.
Since you only have $400 for speakers and a sub, we're going to gave to sacrifice something. If we buy both, sound quality suffers. if we get one or the other, you lose something. I'd recommend investing in the speakers, and adding a sub later on as budget allows. For the speakers, there are literally hundreds of choices in the <$400 range. I personally went with Alpine SPX-17PRO component speakers. Others prefer JL Audio, MB Quartz, etc. It depends on all sorts of factors - what kind of music you listen to, how loud you like it, etc. etc. etc. Read the car audio forums to help you make a decision there.
I would only purchase a pair of speakers for the doors - ignore the rear speakers entirely. They will add expense and add nothing to your listening experience.
Remember to search Amazon, eBay, and other sites for bargains/discounts. You can also sometimes find good deals on speakers and subs on Craigslist.
Anyway, please feel free to ask more questions - we're here to help.
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; 8/20/13 at 11:12 AM.
8/20/13, 10:42 AM
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If there is a budget, I recommend adding pieces part by part and deciding if you need more. If you feel you need more bass, add a sub and amp first and see if you are happy. If after that you feel the high frequency is muddy, add an amp and change your interior speakers.
Some folks will tell you that you HAVE to run signal processors and eqs or your system is crap. You HAVE to run a high voltage source. Audio is very subjective. Only your ears can tell you when you need more.
Some folks will tell you that you HAVE to run signal processors and eqs or your system is crap. You HAVE to run a high voltage source. Audio is very subjective. Only your ears can tell you when you need more.
8/20/13, 05:23 PM
#8
Bullitt Member
He's already said he's got a $1,000 budget. Not much to work with, so we either need to go with used gear or best value. He's going to have to do the labor himself.
8/21/13, 07:06 AM
#9
I think a simple jl w1 or w0 setup in a nice box would be great
I also think that his budget will work for a nice jl amp and jl speakers
you can easily do all that for your budget the budget breaker is the head unit
for about 1500 you can get a decent setup
including subs amp and all that good stuff new
simply replacing your head unit will increase the sound greatly(if you use a nice head unit)
I also think that his budget will work for a nice jl amp and jl speakers
you can easily do all that for your budget the budget breaker is the head unit
for about 1500 you can get a decent setup
including subs amp and all that good stuff new
simply replacing your head unit will increase the sound greatly(if you use a nice head unit)
Last edited by jdub2k5; 8/21/13 at 07:18 AM.
8/24/13, 12:11 AM
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I decided I don't need an amp and sub as much as I need new speakers (inside the door). Do I need specific speakers that fit in the door or can I get any ones? Which ones are the best (quality-wise, don't care much about loudness)? Thanks guys for all the help above.
8/24/13, 11:04 AM
#12
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You need a 5x7 to fit the stock location. I've always like way focal speakers sound. But in my Mustang I've got an Alpine spx-13 pro set mounted on plates in the 5x7 location and really like the sound. If $ was no object I would have a nice Dynaudo set.
8/24/13, 01:08 PM
#13
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We learn from experience, grasshopper. Let those of us who've already had the negative experiences guide you around them towards the good ones.
As for source - you need to look at what format your source material is available in. SACD or DVD Audio will give you the best sound quality, but they are dying formats and there's not a lot of music out there in Disc form anymore (some of us remember when music came on 8-track tapes!).
Since you have an iPhone 5, you'll want to use USB connected via the lightning connector. That will give you a digital signal from the iPhone into the head unit. the iPhone 5 can play music recorded in mp3 (lossy) or ALAC (lossless), as well as a few other odd formats. The problem is most head units won't play ALAC files, so you'll have to use the iPhone as the playback device. The other issue with ALAC is that the files, compared to mp3, take up a lot more space, so fewer songs per device. Combine this with the fact that you need to convert your music to ALAC to begin with, and it starts to become a big chore.
Having said all that, let's assume your music library is in mp3 format. Mp3 has many quality settings, most commonly 128k (which sounds like a cassette tape with Dolby B on, IMO). Mp3's recorded at 320k sound much better. There's still some issues, but it's mostly acceptable, especially in a car environment, and especially especially in a Mustang! So I would rip all my music to 320k.
Since we're now focusing on mp3 as our source material, that opens up several avenues for playback. USB thumb drives work well, and they don't tie up your iPhone. Regardless of if you use your iPhone or a USB drive, you still need something to connect it to. Here's where we need to start getting picky....
Believe it or not, the first thing I'm going to point out doesn't have anything to do with the sound system at all...it's going to be a piece of plastic. Specifically, it'll be the dash kit you'll need to mount your new radio into the car. There are 2 companies so far (with a 3rd coming soon). This piece alone is going to cost you somewhere around $200 - $300, depending on which version you choose. Given your $1,000 budget, that leaves $700 for a head unit, speakers, subs, amps, and wire (assuming you're doing all the labor yourself).
Next up is the head unit. Since all you need is audio (no GPS, etc.), you can go with a single-DIN unit. I would recommend a higher-end unit like the Pioneer DEX-P99RS but that's going to be out of your price range, and it needs separate amps. Let's look at something more economical like the Alpine CDE-HD149BT unit. $300 ($400 remaining). Good performance, lots of features, and it's an Alpine.
Since you only have $400 for speakers and a sub, we're going to gave to sacrifice something. If we buy both, sound quality suffers. if we get one or the other, you lose something. I'd recommend investing in the speakers, and adding a sub later on as budget allows. For the speakers, there are literally hundreds of choices in the <$400 range. I personally went with Alpine SPX-17PRO component speakers. Others prefer JL Audio, MB Quartz, etc. It depends on all sorts of factors - what kind of music you listen to, how loud you like it, etc. etc. etc. Read the car audio forums to help you make a decision there.
I would only purchase a pair of speakers for the doors - ignore the rear speakers entirely. They will add expense and add nothing to your listening experience.
Remember to search Amazon, eBay, and other sites for bargains/discounts. You can also sometimes find good deals on speakers and subs on Craigslist.
Anyway, please feel free to ask more questions - we're here to help.
OP, find the budget to get these things:
The Alpine CDE-149BT, an Alpine PDX-V9, Alpine Type-X Pro speakers (6.5" components), and the JL audio Stealthbox for 10-14 Mustangs. You'll also need wiring and sound deadening - may as well get it all from audiotechnix.com - good stuff at a decent price.
In order of importance, I'd start with the head unit, wiring and sound deadener (run the wires from trunk to engine compartment, and from trunk to doors, but don't hook them up yet, and apply sound deadener to doors and trunklid). Then I'd get the speakers and amp, and install them. With the head unit, speakers and amp you're getting, you should run these speakers active - meaning, you don't use the crossover box that's supplied with them, but instead run the tweeters and mids on their own channels off the 5ch amp. Your head unit and amp have the capability to do this, and it's very easy to tune once you get the hang of it - it gives you much more flexibility and tuning options. Check around this section of the forum for ColSaulTigh's install for pointers.
This setup will go over your budget, but if you break it down into phases like I mentioned, it will be easier to swallow and you will be blown away in the end.
8/27/13, 07:11 AM
#14
Bullitt Member
Now as for quality, I will point out that after a certain point, you'll get into the law of diminishing returns. Spending $1,000 on a pair (or even 2 pair) of speakers is dumb if you're not going to upgrade anything else. What's the long-term goal here? Is this a 1st step into an overall overhaul or is this all you're looking to do?
Remember, GIGO - garbage in, garbage out. The best speakers in the world won't fix a bad system if the components aren't very good. Remember, in your initial post you said you wanted "HD 1080p audio" - something that just changing the speakers isn't going to do for you.
Now, if you're set on just adding speakers and nothing else, based on your assessment that you want quality, Id' suggest components. The problem with components is that you'll need to deal with mounting a crossover as well as placement of the tweeters.
The crossover can be hidden in the door panel (see my thread here). To get the BEST performance from the tweeters, you want them as close to ear-level as possible, which means mounting them in the A-pillars (custom fiberglass work), or in the triangles that cover the side mirror bolts. If you have power mirrors, this means relocating the power mirror switch.
As for brand - again, there's many to choose from. If we stick with your $1,000 budget, and assume you're going to do the install yourself, I'd recommend (in no particular order):
...the list is endless.
Give us some feedback and we'll help narrow the choices for you.
Last edited by ColSaulTigh; 8/27/13 at 07:14 AM.
9/11/13, 10:59 PM
#15
This is my setup
This is what I did, just to give you an idea of what is involved. I have parted out and sold most of it now because I'd rather go a different direction, but this was **** near perfect in terms of quality natural sounding audio. Brands are subject to choice, but just gives you an idea of what's out there.
Head unit - Kenwood DDX419 Head Unit - Double Din with DVD player, Bluetooth, basically everything except nav -- $350
Kenwood rear backup camera (optional but I recommend) - $200
Scosche Dash Kit - $200 w/ head unit purchase from Crutchfield
PAC Interface (wiring to make it work) - $130
Alpine SPX-177R Component Speakers - $400
McIntosh 8" Subwoofers in the doors - $400
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" Subwoofer in trunk - $100 (+ $150 for box)
Alpine 4-channel amp to run front and rear speakers - $300 used
Monitor1 2-channel amp to run 8" subwoofers - $150 new old stock
Zapco Reference 750 amp to run 10" sub (overkill) - $400 used
Door panels from Premium Package to use 8" subwoofers - $800
Wiring, fuses, RCAs, etc. needed for installation - $200-300
Big 3 wiring to help with amp drain on battery - $100
Professional installation - $750 for labor only
Total - $4,680
I started with a budget of $1,000 - $1,500, so yeah, it gets expensive quickly. Just the head unit is going to run you about $700 by the time it's said and done, you could replace the stock speakers with some Pioneer/Infinity/etc. coaxials and be at $1,000 if you did the install yourself, that would sound decent to start. Definitely not "1080P" sound, whatever that means, but you will need $3-5k to get a good system together, and that's with finding some deals.
Head unit - Kenwood DDX419 Head Unit - Double Din with DVD player, Bluetooth, basically everything except nav -- $350
Kenwood rear backup camera (optional but I recommend) - $200
Scosche Dash Kit - $200 w/ head unit purchase from Crutchfield
PAC Interface (wiring to make it work) - $130
Alpine SPX-177R Component Speakers - $400
McIntosh 8" Subwoofers in the doors - $400
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" Subwoofer in trunk - $100 (+ $150 for box)
Alpine 4-channel amp to run front and rear speakers - $300 used
Monitor1 2-channel amp to run 8" subwoofers - $150 new old stock
Zapco Reference 750 amp to run 10" sub (overkill) - $400 used
Door panels from Premium Package to use 8" subwoofers - $800
Wiring, fuses, RCAs, etc. needed for installation - $200-300
Big 3 wiring to help with amp drain on battery - $100
Professional installation - $750 for labor only
Total - $4,680
I started with a budget of $1,000 - $1,500, so yeah, it gets expensive quickly. Just the head unit is going to run you about $700 by the time it's said and done, you could replace the stock speakers with some Pioneer/Infinity/etc. coaxials and be at $1,000 if you did the install yourself, that would sound decent to start. Definitely not "1080P" sound, whatever that means, but you will need $3-5k to get a good system together, and that's with finding some deals.
9/12/13, 09:21 PM
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9/18/13, 06:21 PM
#18
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I just spent $500 at Crutchfield for a JVC stereo, 4 speakers and a little powered sub and I love the sound...in my truck. I want to do the same in my base '13 GT but don't know what that will entail and what neato Ford/Sync features I will lose. My point is I didn't spend that much and I'm super happy. Even my grown sons like the new sound, though they do want me to get a "real" sub. I play all my music from an iPhone 5
9/18/13, 07:18 PM
#19
You really need to upgrade your head unit to get quality sound and RCA inputs to run a few amps. You don't really want to power your speakers with your deck. Pioneer makes some pretty good, affordable decks. You can get a decent double din touch screen unit for around $300. This will play DVDs and most now have Bluetooth to connect your iPod or iPhone and make phone calls etc. the dash kit is expensive since it also replaces the AC controles. You can get everything done for around $500-600. That leaves about her $400-500 for subs and an amp. Kicker makes some decent affordable bass packages. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2013-FORD-MUSTANG-10-KICKER-CVT10-CUSTOM-FIT-SUBWOOFER-SUB-BOX-DX500-1-AMP-/310748081295?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item485a076c8f&vxp=mtr
This setup is under $350 and includes everything. Just need a four channel and front speakers. I'd recommend components for better sound. Don't worry about the back speakers. Can't really hear them so they are an unnecessary expense when you are on a budget.
This setup is under $350 and includes everything. Just need a four channel and front speakers. I'd recommend components for better sound. Don't worry about the back speakers. Can't really hear them so they are an unnecessary expense when you are on a budget.
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