Some help with reducing door panel vibration in '11 shaker 500
#1
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
Some help with reducing door panel vibration in '11 shaker 500
I know there are a few threads, but not really any pictures:
The Shaker 500 in my car really seems to vibrate the doors, and there's lots of resonance coloring the music. I want to reduce this, and in that regard would like to pick up a dampening product in the next couple weeks, but I'm curious as to what actual areas to apply and how much total quantity needed to get the best result.
I feel a lot of the resonance midpanel about where the door pocket is, so I imagine some material would go to the plastic door panel, and not sure if any ends up inside/outside the subwoofer enclosures or on the metal frame behind it.
I'd also use any leftover on the rear package tray as I do hear a bit of resonance there as well.
Thoughts? Anyone have pictures of their installs?
This thread will become a walkthrough when I complete mine.
The Shaker 500 in my car really seems to vibrate the doors, and there's lots of resonance coloring the music. I want to reduce this, and in that regard would like to pick up a dampening product in the next couple weeks, but I'm curious as to what actual areas to apply and how much total quantity needed to get the best result.
I feel a lot of the resonance midpanel about where the door pocket is, so I imagine some material would go to the plastic door panel, and not sure if any ends up inside/outside the subwoofer enclosures or on the metal frame behind it.
I'd also use any leftover on the rear package tray as I do hear a bit of resonance there as well.
Thoughts? Anyone have pictures of their installs?
This thread will become a walkthrough when I complete mine.
#3
I just replaced the factory upper speakers yesterday. You'd be amazed at how much bare metal there is behind that panel. There is plenty of opportunity for improvement with a sound deadening material. Might want to consider the rubber speaker surrounds that go behind the speaker as well. There isn't a ton of room behind the panel and the window. The exterior sheetmetal is almost completely bare. I'm
Sure if there is a semi-waterproof material applied there it would help as well.
Sure if there is a semi-waterproof material applied there it would help as well.
#4
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Hello guys,
My name is Deysha with Ford Customer Service. Have you had this addressed at your Ford dealership? I’d like to look into this further for you. Could you please private message me your contact info, dealer, VIN and mileage?
Deysha
My name is Deysha with Ford Customer Service. Have you had this addressed at your Ford dealership? I’d like to look into this further for you. Could you please private message me your contact info, dealer, VIN and mileage?
Deysha
#5
Here are a couple installs I've done in other cars with lots of deadening. Might give you some ideas.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ictures-42530/
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-i-c-e...-lot-pics.html
Here's one suggestion I've used to deal with rattles in the past. Just slapping on a lot of deadening in the door aimlessly can be time consuming and costly. I've had crazy rattles that I was able to completely wipe out with a small gob of rubber butyl the size of an eraser. One of the best products I've used for eliminating small rattles like this is the rubber butyl rope you that comes in a windshield install kit. It's like $15.00 for 15' of 3/8" rope. It sticks to nearly everything and never melts. Wedge it between two vibrating panels and you rattle will disappear if you've found the right spot. Plastic door panels consist of a lot of separate plastic pieces clipped together. Often times manufacturers put small sticky felt discs in between these areas. You can see them on clips and such. If you take the plastic panel off the door and hang it from a rope in the garage you can start slapping and tapping the panel in different areas and hear the spots that are really resonant. Those are the areas you want to focus on. Hit those areas and you'll increase the overall sound quality of your entire sound system.
http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ictures-42530/
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-i-c-e...-lot-pics.html
Here's one suggestion I've used to deal with rattles in the past. Just slapping on a lot of deadening in the door aimlessly can be time consuming and costly. I've had crazy rattles that I was able to completely wipe out with a small gob of rubber butyl the size of an eraser. One of the best products I've used for eliminating small rattles like this is the rubber butyl rope you that comes in a windshield install kit. It's like $15.00 for 15' of 3/8" rope. It sticks to nearly everything and never melts. Wedge it between two vibrating panels and you rattle will disappear if you've found the right spot. Plastic door panels consist of a lot of separate plastic pieces clipped together. Often times manufacturers put small sticky felt discs in between these areas. You can see them on clips and such. If you take the plastic panel off the door and hang it from a rope in the garage you can start slapping and tapping the panel in different areas and hear the spots that are really resonant. Those are the areas you want to focus on. Hit those areas and you'll increase the overall sound quality of your entire sound system.
#6
Last time I took the door panel off to replace the speakers, I was having trouble removing the wire that goes itno the door handle itself (that attaches to the latch) --- i got it off just enough to get enough room to replace the speaker... but does anyone know how to remove it completely so i can get the door card off completely??
The relevance to this thread is I plan on dynamatting the door heavily to reduce all the vibration coming from it. but can't really I get to it properally without removing the door card completely...
I'd be happy to report my results once i've done this.
The relevance to this thread is I plan on dynamatting the door heavily to reduce all the vibration coming from it. but can't really I get to it properally without removing the door card completely...
I'd be happy to report my results once i've done this.
#8
I just pulled my inside door panel off with the hopes of fixing the vibrations and replacing the 5x8 worthless speaker. What is the purpose of the clear plastic sheet between the inside and outside panels? Is it just for weather proofing? I bet we would be better off removing that and putting a self adhesive material in its place. I bought some Dynamat for the door, but am not sure if it should go on the metal frame or over the plastic weather barrier. Any thoughts?
#11
Mach 1 Member
Thread Starter
completed the install last night, took about 3-4 hours and I just used the $50 door kit with 4 sheets. I'm sure more could be used, but I used 1.3 sheets on the plastic panel and the rest on the metal inner frame of the door. I just targeted anywhere that buzzed and covered it.
Sonic quality has greatly improved, there's no more coloring in the midbass, and the whole ordeal has tightened up. I'm finding myself listening at higher levels now due to the fact clarity is maintained much higher up in the volume scale. Doors also sound more solid when closing, but no surprise there.
Sonic quality has greatly improved, there's no more coloring in the midbass, and the whole ordeal has tightened up. I'm finding myself listening at higher levels now due to the fact clarity is maintained much higher up in the volume scale. Doors also sound more solid when closing, but no surprise there.
#13
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I got an 02 gt but had the base system. Put some after market components and rear speakers and 2 10" kickers in the trunk. Including a new head unit(: Ima guess im pushin out 3k watts. Before dynamat my car sounded like a rattlecan! I put dynamat just everywhere i could and the difference is comparable to lady gaga and reality! I took the spoiler and that fixed alot of rattle too, plus it looks great(:
Anyway long story short dynamat in you door panels, rear deck, lining your trunk and trunk lid, heck even get it in your glove box and armrest storage and you will be rattle free and everything should sound as clear as day
Anyway long story short dynamat in you door panels, rear deck, lining your trunk and trunk lid, heck even get it in your glove box and armrest storage and you will be rattle free and everything should sound as clear as day
#14
Finished my install yesterday. Put in the Pioneer TSD6802R in the front doors and left the rears (convertible) as is. I did (recommended by one of the audio installers) sparingly use dynamat and used Grace Ice and Water shield on all the metal. Also added it to the plastic enclosure for the subwoofer. The bass does sound much smoother, free of rattles and vibration. Of course I now have nice sounding highs, which was lacking with the OEM speakers. I did notice something, if I turn off the rear speakers, the fronts sound much more defined and clean.
#15
I just want to say - I own a 2012 Ford Mustang Premium Coupe (3.7L V6) and the rattling this system gives off due to the poor manufacturing on the door/door paneling is HORRID. What is even worse is the fact that I've dealt with both my local dealership(s) (YES PLURAL) and Ford Customer Relations on numerous occasions throughout the past two months to no avail. They claim this is normal and nothing can be done. Now what's funny to me is the simple matter of verifing the issue. Which their technicians at the dealerships I've been to seem to have no issue doing. They verify there is an issue, then claim it to be normal. Yet any custom sound dealership local to me will tell me they're bull****ting me and just don't know how to correct it/want to correct it. My car is four months old. I have a god awful ratting, a squeaky front axel and two minor dents that were there from what I am convinced was day one. Shame on me for not seeing them, but that's not the point. Terrible service.
I tried to have Ford cover the cost to sound deaden the door, but they refuse.I've already contacted BBB Auto Line and filed a claim. Funny story about that, this isn't the first time they've heard of this. Sad on Ford's part, truly. Anyway these tips helped, thanks!
I tried to have Ford cover the cost to sound deaden the door, but they refuse.I've already contacted BBB Auto Line and filed a claim. Funny story about that, this isn't the first time they've heard of this. Sad on Ford's part, truly. Anyway these tips helped, thanks!
#17
http://www.raamaudio.com/
Did my trunk floors and doors with the 3 layer system and the difference is amazing! Also I use the loop side of the velcro tape and felt pads that go on the feet of furniture strategically placed in the doors as they are a multi-part fixture and very prone to rattle and it helped a lot. I highly recommend it!
Did my trunk floors and doors with the 3 layer system and the difference is amazing! Also I use the loop side of the velcro tape and felt pads that go on the feet of furniture strategically placed in the doors as they are a multi-part fixture and very prone to rattle and it helped a lot. I highly recommend it!
#18
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I just want to say - I own a 2012 Ford Mustang Premium Coupe (3.7L V6) and the rattling this system gives off due to the poor manufacturing on the door/door paneling is HORRID. What is even worse is the fact that I've dealt with both my local dealership(s) (YES PLURAL) and Ford Customer Relations on numerous occasions throughout the past two months to no avail. They claim this is normal and nothing can be done.
Welcome to the forum! My name is Deysha with Ford Customer Service. I’d like to review your case. Please PM me with your VIN, dealer, mileage, and contact info so I can help.
Deysha
#19
I'm sending you a PM with all that information just because I'm curious to see what you can do to "help" that two dealerships and tons of calls to customer relations couldn't do. By the way, I've dealt with Mark the Customer Relations manager for my REGION. So unless you have some say over him.. Good luck.
#20
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I'm sending you a PM with all that information just because I'm curious to see what you can do to "help" that two dealerships and tons of calls to customer relations couldn't do. By the way, I've dealt with Mark the Customer Relations manager for my REGION. So unless you have some say over him.. Good luck.
Deysha
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