Shaker 500 has line outs???
#43
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So, after following this thread and others carefully, and learning from RobDis's experiences, I decided to upgrade my sound system one more time. The addition of the Pioneers and the Shelby/Kicker subs was not enough: not crisp enough in the highs and not enough thump to the lows. I knew it was a matter of needing to amp the subs for sure, and then figured I would amp the door 5X7s too. But, I also knew some separates with a good tweeter would probably get me more accurate highs and since I was going to amp them now, why not.
At the other end of about $1200.00 installed, I am now very happy with the finished product. The AudioControl LCQ1 under the pass. seat puts the bass-drop-out to rest, gives me EQ functionality and a very clean signal to the 4-channel JL XD400/4 under the driver's seat. The amp does a fine job running the Kicker subs in the doors and the Hertz HSK130s in the 5X7 spots. I put the sub remote control **** in the E-Brake adjust panel inside the center console to keep it out of the way but reachable. I did leave the Pioneer TSD6802Rs in the rear 5X7 spots on the stock amp. and they are fine there, good balance of sound in the car when the top is down and the exhaust note gets quiet enough...which is not that often!
At the other end of about $1200.00 installed, I am now very happy with the finished product. The AudioControl LCQ1 under the pass. seat puts the bass-drop-out to rest, gives me EQ functionality and a very clean signal to the 4-channel JL XD400/4 under the driver's seat. The amp does a fine job running the Kicker subs in the doors and the Hertz HSK130s in the 5X7 spots. I put the sub remote control **** in the E-Brake adjust panel inside the center console to keep it out of the way but reachable. I did leave the Pioneer TSD6802Rs in the rear 5X7 spots on the stock amp. and they are fine there, good balance of sound in the car when the top is down and the exhaust note gets quiet enough...which is not that often!
#44
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So, after following this thread and others carefully, and learning from RobDis's experiences, I decided to upgrade my sound system one more time. The addition of the Pioneers and the Shelby/Kicker subs was not enough: not crisp enough in the highs and not enough thump to the lows. I knew it was a matter of needing to amp the subs for sure, and then figured I would amp the door 5X7s too. But, I also knew some separates with a good tweeter would probably get me more accurate highs and since I was going to amp them now, why not.
At the other end of about $1200.00 installed, I am now very happy with the finished product. The AudioControl LCQ1 under the pass. seat puts the bass-drop-out to rest, gives me EQ functionality and a very clean signal to the 4-channel JL XD400/4 under the driver's seat. The amp does a fine job running the Kicker subs in the doors and the Hertz HSK130s in the 5X7 spots. I put the sub remote control **** in the E-Brake adjust panel inside the center console to keep it out of the way but reachable. I did leave the Pioneer TSD6802Rs in the rear 5X7 spots on the stock amp. and they are fine there, good balance of sound in the car when the top is down and the exhaust note gets quiet enough...which is not that often!
At the other end of about $1200.00 installed, I am now very happy with the finished product. The AudioControl LCQ1 under the pass. seat puts the bass-drop-out to rest, gives me EQ functionality and a very clean signal to the 4-channel JL XD400/4 under the driver's seat. The amp does a fine job running the Kicker subs in the doors and the Hertz HSK130s in the 5X7 spots. I put the sub remote control **** in the E-Brake adjust panel inside the center console to keep it out of the way but reachable. I did leave the Pioneer TSD6802Rs in the rear 5X7 spots on the stock amp. and they are fine there, good balance of sound in the car when the top is down and the exhaust note gets quiet enough...which is not that often!
I also made some changes this week. I hooked up the door speakers to the Polk Audio 4 Channel amplifier and now I only turn the volume up 1/4 of the way. I have good highs, and mids from the doors and 6x9's in the rear. The Alpine Type R 10 is thumping hard and since the volume only goes up a few notches I dont get the roll off nearly as bad. This will work till I get the Dash kit and Touchscreen.
#45
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I'm thinking of making this next month's project. I have the shaker 500 and pioneers in the front and Polks in the back. will leave stock door subs as is and I don't want to add a sub in the trunk. I am looking for decent sound and am not an audiophile, just sick of the roll-off and the mudiness.
so question is can I get away with just the LCQ1 (and factory amps) or would I also need to add an aftermarket amp as well like tripleshot did?
so question is can I get away with just the LCQ1 (and factory amps) or would I also need to add an aftermarket amp as well like tripleshot did?
Last edited by bones302; 10/7/11 at 07:47 AM.
#46
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I think you could just go direct out to speakers from the LCQ1, but it is designed to give an amp the clean signal it needs to feed your speakers properly. Seriously look at amping whatever speakers you have, at least in the doors. You will be glad you did. BTW, I used the factory speaker wiring for all the work I did, it was good enough for the 75-100 watts/channel I am running. That saves a lot of the install work/time/hassles.
#47
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thanks Tripleshot. Doing a little more research, I see that the LCQ1 is really meant to signal out to an amp. I want to reuse the stock speaker wiring as well and think I'm going to do a 6 channel amp just to hedge my bets. Thanks!
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Does the FRD24 retain use of all factory wiring to speakers? If I want to add 4 channel amp to factory speaker locations is this accomplished with harnesses from FRD24 to amp? Hope this makes sense.
#50
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I think I know what you are asking. No the FRD24 is simply a Line Output Converter. It taps the speaker wires and changes that signal to RCA outputs for the amplifiers. If you want to amplify the front speakers you will need to run wires to the front of the car and feed them through the wire conduits into the doors. Not really an easy job but worth it for the sound. I removed my door subs with the plan on replacing them with some 6.5's since my 10 inch Alpine sub is putting out my low end bass now. So since the sub wires are already run into the doors I disconnected my factory amplifer and just used the Ford wiring diagram to find the speaker wires and tapped them under the dash and then cut the 2 wires I needed inside the door panels and tied them into the my door speakers. Plus the wire loom is on the driver side so both wires to power the front speakers went down the driver side to the same place.
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