Post your Audio upgrades.
8/4/17, 07:13 AM
#1
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Post your Audio upgrades.
I am looking at upgrading my audio system. I use to do this professionally but I want to know what everyone is using these days for Speakers, Amps, Processors etc. Any mods as well.
8/4/17, 11:38 AM
#2
I just replaced the terrible four stock speakers with 6x8 cerwin vegas, and dynomated the rear deck. I will eventually add a touchscreen headunit and a sub in the trunk. Performance mods are more important to me right now though.
8/6/17, 08:45 PM
#3
Bullitt Member
I replaced the front speakers with Pioneer TS-D6802R and added a JL Audio Stealthbox sub with a JL 500 watt amp.
I am not doing anything else as my exhaust drowns the stereo anyways.
In my 2016 Toyota Highlander, I have a $3,000 system consisting of Morel Ultra coax and component speakers, Alpine 4 channel amp, JL Audio powered subwoofer, JL Audio processors. This is the car I use for long distance driving.
I am not doing anything else as my exhaust drowns the stereo anyways.
In my 2016 Toyota Highlander, I have a $3,000 system consisting of Morel Ultra coax and component speakers, Alpine 4 channel amp, JL Audio powered subwoofer, JL Audio processors. This is the car I use for long distance driving.
8/7/17, 09:00 AM
#4
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
I have been out of this for a while. I use to use a lot of Kicker and JBL products. Amps where always Linear power best amp you can get. They are really expensive but worth it.
I am glad you all are posting trying to make up my mind on my upgrades.
I am glad you all are posting trying to make up my mind on my upgrades.
8/7/17, 05:55 PM
#5
Mach 1 Member
Yesterday I swapped out my rear deck speakers to match my fronts. Alpine SPR-68, used the Metra harness and put in boom mat speaker baffles.
Eventually, I will get around to swapping out the head unit for a Pioneer or Kenwood, and the maestro iDatalink (ADS-KIT-MUS1). The Alpine units are too pricey for me. Not sure which amp to run.
It is a pita to get the rears swapped too. Once completed with new head unit and amp, I hope that it will be worth it.
Eventually, I will get around to swapping out the head unit for a Pioneer or Kenwood, and the maestro iDatalink (ADS-KIT-MUS1). The Alpine units are too pricey for me. Not sure which amp to run.
It is a pita to get the rears swapped too. Once completed with new head unit and amp, I hope that it will be worth it.
Last edited by Rog13GTCS; 8/7/17 at 05:58 PM.
8/7/17, 07:51 PM
#6
I was never happy with the sound of the Shaker 500 system in my 2012 GTCS convertible, from the day I bought it in 2011. Through the years I tried and tried to at least get a respectable sound out of that thing. I listened to many factory systems in other cars that knocked the socks off the factory Ford unit (a Sony, I believe). Not wanting to put a sub in the trunk of a convertible, I put in 3 sets of upper door speakers and two different door lowers during this time.
I'm finally done, and I think it's as good as it can get, given my requirement to keep the stock head unit and totally stock appearance. I wanted to retain the original look of my car, but any unseen equipment changes were fair game.
Sound is subjective, so what I like, you may not like. But in my opinion, it's about as good as it can get without changing the head unit.
Here's my answer:
Focal ISC 570 (Integration Series) in the upper doors and rear sail panels.
Wiring adapters from Crutchfield. An Arc Audio KS 125.2 BX mini in place of the door sub amp above the driver's kick panel. It's small enough to fit, and has plenty of power. A pair of CDT Audio HD-M6Sub, 6.5" in the 8" factory holes. I used adapters from Car-Speaker-Adapters.com. They are not listed on their website. I helped develop them (no profit for me, I wanted a solution). These adapters work with the stock grill covers and trim rings, so the car looks totally stock. They are made from plastic sandwiched in aluminum, and can support the weight of speakers with 30 oz magnets. A 5 volt to 12 volt electronic switch built by a good friend, which totally eliminates the turn-off pop at shut off. It's small enough to zip tie to the harness which keeps it out of the way. It uses the factory head unit turn on wire to power the Arc Audio amp.
The result is significantly better quality sound in the car, WITH bass. Mission accomplished. Cheap...NO. Worth it, YES!
Shipey
P.S. If you want to save about $250, skip changing the rear sail panel speakers from stock. The head unit is so front biased, that it doesn't matter.
I'm finally done, and I think it's as good as it can get, given my requirement to keep the stock head unit and totally stock appearance. I wanted to retain the original look of my car, but any unseen equipment changes were fair game.
Sound is subjective, so what I like, you may not like. But in my opinion, it's about as good as it can get without changing the head unit.
Here's my answer:
Focal ISC 570 (Integration Series) in the upper doors and rear sail panels.
Wiring adapters from Crutchfield. An Arc Audio KS 125.2 BX mini in place of the door sub amp above the driver's kick panel. It's small enough to fit, and has plenty of power. A pair of CDT Audio HD-M6Sub, 6.5" in the 8" factory holes. I used adapters from Car-Speaker-Adapters.com. They are not listed on their website. I helped develop them (no profit for me, I wanted a solution). These adapters work with the stock grill covers and trim rings, so the car looks totally stock. They are made from plastic sandwiched in aluminum, and can support the weight of speakers with 30 oz magnets. A 5 volt to 12 volt electronic switch built by a good friend, which totally eliminates the turn-off pop at shut off. It's small enough to zip tie to the harness which keeps it out of the way. It uses the factory head unit turn on wire to power the Arc Audio amp.
The result is significantly better quality sound in the car, WITH bass. Mission accomplished. Cheap...NO. Worth it, YES!
Shipey
P.S. If you want to save about $250, skip changing the rear sail panel speakers from stock. The head unit is so front biased, that it doesn't matter.
8/8/17, 04:10 PM
#7
Mach 1 Member
Here's everything that went into mine. Some of it is pretty oldschool. Stuck to the traditional HU replacement with speakers, 2 amps and a subwoofer.
HU:Pioneer 5700BHS
Speakers: Oldschool Soundstream exact components and coaxials.
amps: MTX 7804 4ch. MTX 5601 Monoblock
Subwoofer: MTX TR7512
Mods
Zen enclosures trunk box
Put the Tweeters in the pillar pods and moved the mirror switch
and a fair amount of sound deadening...
I have my build thread somewhere..I'll link it if I can find it
Last edited by 05PRMTX; 8/8/17 at 04:14 PM.
8/10/17, 10:27 AM
#8
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
I was never happy with the sound of the Shaker 500 system in my 2012 GTCS convertible, from the day I bought it in 2011. Through the years I tried and tried to at least get a respectable sound out of that thing. I listened to many factory systems in other cars that knocked the socks off the factory Ford unit (a Sony, I believe). Not wanting to put a sub in the trunk of a convertible, I put in 3 sets of upper door speakers and two different door lowers during this time.
I'm finally done, and I think it's as good as it can get, given my requirement to keep the stock head unit and totally stock appearance. I wanted to retain the original look of my car, but any unseen equipment changes were fair game.
Sound is subjective, so what I like, you may not like. But in my opinion, it's about as good as it can get without changing the head unit.
Here's my answer:
Focal ISC 570 (Integration Series) in the upper doors and rear sail panels.
Wiring adapters from Crutchfield. An Arc Audio KS 125.2 BX mini in place of the door sub amp above the driver's kick panel. It's small enough to fit, and has plenty of power. A pair of CDT Audio HD-M6Sub, 6.5" in the 8" factory holes. I used adapters from Car-Speaker-Adapters.com. They are not listed on their website. I helped develop them (no profit for me, I wanted a solution). These adapters work with the stock grill covers and trim rings, so the car looks totally stock. They are made from plastic sandwiched in aluminum, and can support the weight of speakers with 30 oz magnets. A 5 volt to 12 volt electronic switch built by a good friend, which totally eliminates the turn-off pop at shut off. It's small enough to zip tie to the harness which keeps it out of the way. It uses the factory head unit turn on wire to power the Arc Audio amp.
The result is significantly better quality sound in the car, WITH bass. Mission accomplished. Cheap...NO. Worth it, YES!
Shipey
P.S. If you want to save about $250, skip changing the rear sail panel speakers from stock. The head unit is so front biased, that it doesn't matter.
I'm finally done, and I think it's as good as it can get, given my requirement to keep the stock head unit and totally stock appearance. I wanted to retain the original look of my car, but any unseen equipment changes were fair game.
Sound is subjective, so what I like, you may not like. But in my opinion, it's about as good as it can get without changing the head unit.
Here's my answer:
Focal ISC 570 (Integration Series) in the upper doors and rear sail panels.
Wiring adapters from Crutchfield. An Arc Audio KS 125.2 BX mini in place of the door sub amp above the driver's kick panel. It's small enough to fit, and has plenty of power. A pair of CDT Audio HD-M6Sub, 6.5" in the 8" factory holes. I used adapters from Car-Speaker-Adapters.com. They are not listed on their website. I helped develop them (no profit for me, I wanted a solution). These adapters work with the stock grill covers and trim rings, so the car looks totally stock. They are made from plastic sandwiched in aluminum, and can support the weight of speakers with 30 oz magnets. A 5 volt to 12 volt electronic switch built by a good friend, which totally eliminates the turn-off pop at shut off. It's small enough to zip tie to the harness which keeps it out of the way. It uses the factory head unit turn on wire to power the Arc Audio amp.
The result is significantly better quality sound in the car, WITH bass. Mission accomplished. Cheap...NO. Worth it, YES!
Shipey
P.S. If you want to save about $250, skip changing the rear sail panel speakers from stock. The head unit is so front biased, that it doesn't matter.
The following users liked this post:
Shipey (8/10/17)
8/10/17, 10:28 AM
#9
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Old school sometimes is the way to go. I am thinking about pulling my Linear Power amps and eq out and installing them in my mustang. Ilove these idea's. I have been out of the business for many years. All these are fantastic.