Automatic headlight switch install - help please
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Automatic headlight switch install - help please
I would like to install the SW6659 switch to convert my headlights to automatic. I read in another thread that the easiest way to get the old switch out is to 'pop off' the end panel and reach in behind the switch and push it out. I assume that panel is the one that is exposed when the door is opened. It has a hole in it that mates to the door window defroster vent.
I've tried to pull on that panel, but it doesn't come off easily. Is that the correct panel and, if so, any words of wisdom on how to remove it?
I've tried to pull on that panel, but it doesn't come off easily. Is that the correct panel and, if so, any words of wisdom on how to remove it?
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Thanks, Bennie. I'll have to see if I can pop that panel out. Meanwhile, I pulled a little harder on the panel I mentioned earlier and was able to pop it out enough to get a hand in behind the switch. My switch is ordered and will arrive Monday. With the days getting shorter, this is a good time to install the switch and have auto lights.
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A word of caution, a friend of mine has a 2013 V6 premium and he also wanted to add auto headlights and bought the switch but come to find out he didn't have the light sensor at the top of the dash or the necessary wiring behind the switch to wire one up….just an FYI. Hope this helps.
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There is certainly something there that looks like a light sensor, but I won't know if it is working until I install the switch and try it.
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I believe there are 1 or 2 torx screws that hold that entire headlight switch assembly in place. your are better off taking that off as a unit and then taking the switch itself off on the bench.
#10
Yea if they change you have the sensor. As for the switch you pry the surround out and there is a clip that holds the switch in it unplug press the clip and slide it forward then put the new one in it took me less than 5 minutes to do mine
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Can these switches be found only at the dealer, and if so, do you have the part#? Thanks.
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I now have fully automatic headlights. Installation of the new switch was pretty easy. Here are photos of the switch.
This is the face of the new switch I bought at Amazon.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchface_zpsf5526353.jpg)
Here is the back - note the socket for the electrical connection plug.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchback_zpsd14bc187.jpg)
In this shot of the side you can see the bits of plastic that hold the switch into the surround. They compress in as you push the switch in and then spring back to their normal position. There are three of them at approximately 3:30, 6:30, and 10:30 as you look at the face of the switch.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchside_zpscdf6b31e.jpg)
And here is a shot of the dash where the switch is installed. The panel on the end of the dash (has a hole in it for vent to door) can be popped open. Slip a slender screwdriver in through the obvious spot and you can get your fingers in to pry open the panel. There are three clips that hold it in place, plus two more at the edge toward the engine. It is possible to completely remove this panel, but not necessary.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchdash_zps901b6646.jpg)
With that panel popped open you can get your hand in behind the switch surround and push out. I was able to get the switch surround out except for the lower left corner. I could then push in the 6:30 and 10:30 switch plastic bits with my fingers and use a screwdriver to push in the one at 3:30. The dimmer switch makes it impossible to get your finger on it. The old switch then easily popped out and I was able to remove the connector plug, plug in the new switch and push it back into the surround. The surround snapped back into the dash easily and the end panel went back on with no problem.
I started the engine and turned the headlights to the automatic position. As it was light out, the headlights did not come on. I slipped a black stocking cap over the sensor and the headlights came on immediately. When I removed the cap they stayed on for perhaps 10 seconds or so, and then went off. I pulled the car into the garage and it was dark enough in there for the lights to come back on. When I shut off the engine they went out immediately.
Thank you to the members of this forum who provided helpful tips.
This is the face of the new switch I bought at Amazon.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchface_zpsf5526353.jpg)
Here is the back - note the socket for the electrical connection plug.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchback_zpsd14bc187.jpg)
In this shot of the side you can see the bits of plastic that hold the switch into the surround. They compress in as you push the switch in and then spring back to their normal position. There are three of them at approximately 3:30, 6:30, and 10:30 as you look at the face of the switch.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchside_zpscdf6b31e.jpg)
And here is a shot of the dash where the switch is installed. The panel on the end of the dash (has a hole in it for vent to door) can be popped open. Slip a slender screwdriver in through the obvious spot and you can get your fingers in to pry open the panel. There are three clips that hold it in place, plus two more at the edge toward the engine. It is possible to completely remove this panel, but not necessary.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchdash_zps901b6646.jpg)
With that panel popped open you can get your hand in behind the switch surround and push out. I was able to get the switch surround out except for the lower left corner. I could then push in the 6:30 and 10:30 switch plastic bits with my fingers and use a screwdriver to push in the one at 3:30. The dimmer switch makes it impossible to get your finger on it. The old switch then easily popped out and I was able to remove the connector plug, plug in the new switch and push it back into the surround. The surround snapped back into the dash easily and the end panel went back on with no problem.
I started the engine and turned the headlights to the automatic position. As it was light out, the headlights did not come on. I slipped a black stocking cap over the sensor and the headlights came on immediately. When I removed the cap they stayed on for perhaps 10 seconds or so, and then went off. I pulled the car into the garage and it was dark enough in there for the lights to come back on. When I shut off the engine they went out immediately.
Thank you to the members of this forum who provided helpful tips.
#14
If your car doesn't have foglights, you'll probably want to use SW-6833 instead. It has auto headlights, but doesn't have that symbol for fog lights at 7 o'clock.
It's the one used on the Boss 302 as far as I know.
It's the one used on the Boss 302 as far as I know.
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I've had my automatic headlights for a week now and really appreciate them. The rain has come to western Washington and they come on just as they are supposed to. The alternative was to leave the headlights switched on and have the car beep at me every time I opened the door. This is much better.
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I now have fully automatic headlights. Installation of the new switch was pretty easy. Here are photos of the switch.
This is the face of the new switch I bought at Amazon.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchface_zpsf5526353.jpg)
Here is the back - note the socket for the electrical connection plug.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchback_zpsd14bc187.jpg)
In this shot of the side you can see the bits of plastic that hold the switch into the surround. They compress in as you push the switch in and then spring back to their normal position. There are three of them at approximately 3:30, 6:30, and 10:30 as you look at the face of the switch.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchside_zpscdf6b31e.jpg)
And here is a shot of the dash where the switch is installed. The panel on the end of the dash (has a hole in it for vent to door) can be popped open. Slip a slender screwdriver in through the obvious spot and you can get your fingers in to pry open the panel. There are three clips that hold it in place, plus two more at the edge toward the engine. It is possible to completely remove this panel, but not necessary.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchdash_zps901b6646.jpg)
With that panel popped open you can get your hand in behind the switch surround and push out. I was able to get the switch surround out except for the lower left corner. I could then push in the 6:30 and 10:30 switch plastic bits with my fingers and use a screwdriver to push in the one at 3:30. The dimmer switch makes it impossible to get your finger on it. The old switch then easily popped out and I was able to remove the connector plug, plug in the new switch and push it back into the surround. The surround snapped back into the dash easily and the end panel went back on with no problem.
I started the engine and turned the headlights to the automatic position. As it was light out, the headlights did not come on. I slipped a black stocking cap over the sensor and the headlights came on immediately. When I removed the cap they stayed on for perhaps 10 seconds or so, and then went off. I pulled the car into the garage and it was dark enough in there for the lights to come back on. When I shut off the engine they went out immediately.
Thank you to the members of this forum who provided helpful tips.
This is the face of the new switch I bought at Amazon.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchface_zpsf5526353.jpg)
Here is the back - note the socket for the electrical connection plug.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchback_zpsd14bc187.jpg)
In this shot of the side you can see the bits of plastic that hold the switch into the surround. They compress in as you push the switch in and then spring back to their normal position. There are three of them at approximately 3:30, 6:30, and 10:30 as you look at the face of the switch.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchside_zpscdf6b31e.jpg)
And here is a shot of the dash where the switch is installed. The panel on the end of the dash (has a hole in it for vent to door) can be popped open. Slip a slender screwdriver in through the obvious spot and you can get your fingers in to pry open the panel. There are three clips that hold it in place, plus two more at the edge toward the engine. It is possible to completely remove this panel, but not necessary.
![](http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k555/pbtukatz/Maria%20Mustang/Switchdash_zps901b6646.jpg)
With that panel popped open you can get your hand in behind the switch surround and push out. I was able to get the switch surround out except for the lower left corner. I could then push in the 6:30 and 10:30 switch plastic bits with my fingers and use a screwdriver to push in the one at 3:30. The dimmer switch makes it impossible to get your finger on it. The old switch then easily popped out and I was able to remove the connector plug, plug in the new switch and push it back into the surround. The surround snapped back into the dash easily and the end panel went back on with no problem.
I started the engine and turned the headlights to the automatic position. As it was light out, the headlights did not come on. I slipped a black stocking cap over the sensor and the headlights came on immediately. When I removed the cap they stayed on for perhaps 10 seconds or so, and then went off. I pulled the car into the garage and it was dark enough in there for the lights to come back on. When I shut off the engine they went out immediately.
Thank you to the members of this forum who provided helpful tips.
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