Just got my new rear speakers in! They are the ones that come on the 2013-14 mustangs with Shaker Pro/High Performance Audio and there is a noticeable difference compared to the old base speakers.

 

Nice! Now these are the same as the Shaker 500 right?

 

I am not 100% sure but I believe they are different. under tasca parts they list these speakers as (w/high performance sound) but they may count shaker 500 as high performance as well. But what I do know is I replaced front and rear speakers with shaker pro speakers and they sound much better! but I did start with base speakers.

 

Just asking because I have the 500 system and I've heard they are a lot of work to replace and not worth it. Base is a different story.

I gotta say... What you went through for the Shaker Pro has me thinking aftermarket. Especially since I have the 500 system from the factory.

 

Aftermarket is not bad but you might be looking at a lot of work there too. I really shied away from aftermarket because I didnt want to tie a lead from my battery to an amp. I liked everything running factory, so in 30 years time someone can look at it and not know the difference.

I guess the amount of work you have to put in depends on if you have the nav or not. If you do have the nav from the factory I think you can program it for the shaker. I dont know that for sure since mine is a retrofit.

If you do not have the nav system then this will be easy. you can defiantly get the radio reprogrammed from ford or yourself, then its just a matter of running wires.

Last if you're like me and retrofitted a nav that didn't come with shaker pro, then you have to try your luck with 4DTech or find a head unit that has shaker pro and whatever else you want, because my car wouldn't show programming fields for a nav.

All in all this wasn't a hard project, the wiring was super straight forward, it was just annoying because I was under the impression that my radio was preprogrammed for the shaker pro.

Its not my intent so shy anyone away from doing this, I thought It was great and you learn more about your car, like how every mustang has the boltholes for the shaker system, but they are covered by stickers and some dampening material. But I think both aftermarket and factory have their pros and cons, so I guess its really about what you are looking to get out of your sound system, for me the shaker pro/1000 is just what I want, It really improves the sound over the base system, and it give a nice bass fill from the rear of the car without being overly obnoxious feel everything in your back kind of deal. Not to mention the kick you get from the 500 woofers alone.

As for the rear speakers if you have the shaker 500 I dont really know if there the same or not, I looked on tasca at the part number of the shaker 500 speakers that have the tweeters in them and those said "High Performance Sound" as well. So Im thinking that the front and rears are the same for the pro and the shaker. But again me coming from a base the added tweeters and better sound range of the shaker 500/pro speakers are a true delight.

Sorry if this was a long post but I wanted to clear up some confusion. lol

 

That's a good point about the amp wire and the overall fit and finish.

Mine does have navigation and Shaker 500 from the factory. I'm a little hesitant because my dealer already told me this can't be done, so in thinking it'll be hard to get them to do the programming or order parts. I feel like I'm in the same situation you were when you had the retrofit Nav that didn't have the Shaker Pro programming and that I'd either need a used Nav head with the Shaker Pro programming, or have a $300 programming job done.

Yes, this is good information and thank you. I didn't mean to sound unappreciative. By the way, do you have any more info on the harness, amp and bracket (like photos or part numbers)?

Not to mention that if it isn't enough bass you could always change the driver. I've heard of this too.

This is what I had heard -- that the only difference between the 500 and Pro is the sub.

Also you said this earlier:

I think this is where I got lost. Can you explain this a little further, tell us about the pigtail, the sub harness, how they relate to the dash and body harness, and what you had to do to mate them?

 

You may want to concider getting a VCMII from china. Thats how I do all my programming, I dont remember the last time I had to go to the dealer for programming. It has really paid for itself. I dont know what they are going for now but I think I paid $150-200 for mine. And I dont trust anything a dealer says. They have told me numerous times something cant be done, I go home and comeback in a week with that very same thing done. They told me I couldn't add sync, They told me I couldn't add a 2013 trackapps cluster in a 2012, they told me I couldn't add the nav. So I dont take their word serious. I think they are just too lazy to get involved. So if you have the passion for anything it can be done with a little work! haha

I lucked out and found mine through GreenLeafPrime on ebay, You may want to ask popular mustang salvage places (midwaymustangparts, thepartsfarm, etc.) if they have the bracket, amp, pigtails, and subwoofer. If you want the link to the ebay listing I got mine from its here

As for part numbers I do have them if you want to buy them all new from like tasca.

Amp Bracket: AR3Z18815B

Amp: AR3Z18B849F

Woofer: DR3Z18808D

That may be true, I have a base so I have nothing to go on other than my speakers are completely different down to the part number here is some comparison pictures though. The speaker with the plastic mesh around it is the new one from a 2014 mustang w/shaker pro



Sure no problem, I spent ages studying wiring diagrams so sometime I just assume everyone knows what I'm referring too

C210 is the connector highlighted in red. It is the main connector on the passenger side kick panel near the Smart Junction Box. This is where the dash harness connects to the body harness. You should already have audio wires on the dash harness side of this connector since you have the nav. So you will need to add wires on the body harness side and run them to the amp.


For the pigtails one should be attached to the woofer and that goes into the amp. Nothing there that needs to be reworked. The other pigtail is part of the body harness IF you have a factory shaker pro. If not you need to get the pigtail. This is the motorcraft part number for the amp pigtail. WPT-1354 a google search should give you some results. The pinout for that connector is as follows

Pin#| Circuit |Gauge|Circut Function
1 | SME51 (GY) | 26 | CTRL MOD. -AUDIO # SUBWOOFER/AMPLIFIER ENABLE/MUTE
2 | - | - | Not Used
3 | VME51CE (BN) | 26 | CTRL MOD. -AUDIO # SUBWOOFER/AMPLIFIER AUDIO +
4 | RME51 (WH) | 26 | CTRL MOD> -AUDIO # SUBWOOFER/AMPLIFIER AUDIO -
5 | - | - | Not Used
6 | - | - | Not Used
7 | SBB20 (GN-RD) | 14 | FUSE - 20 OR CIRCUIT BREAKER
8 | - | - | Not Used
9 | - | - | Not Used
10 | GD173 (BK) | 14 | GROUND - DECKLID RIGHT


Gray is the wire the radio uses to turn the amp on and off and it goes to pin 15 on C210.
Brown is the positive audio signal coming from the radio head and going into the amp. It is pin 10 on C210.
Blue is the negative audio signal coming from the radio head and going into the amp. It is pin 9 on C210.
Red is the wire that the amp uses for power. For this I tied power off from the smart junction box in the passenger kick panel. Fuse 19 which is a 25 Amp and unused in 2013-14 cars. In 2010-12 cars it powers the shaker 500 amp.
Green is the ground wire for the amp, I ran a wire over to a ground I found behind the trunk panel and tapped in there.

There is also a shield wire that comes from your radio and goes protects these audio signals its pin position on C210 is pin 1 and its 22 gauge. However the shield does not plug into the amp so I just didn't connect it to the pigtail.

The rest of these wires I soldered onto the pig tail according to the 2013 diagram than shrink tubed them.
I would use a 22/2 shield cable for the audio + - wires. unless you can find 26/2.

C210 -> Amp
Pin 1 -> Nothing
Pin 10 -> Pin 3
Pin 9 -> Pin 4
Pin 15 -> Pin 1

For Power and ground

Power/Ground -> Amp
SJB C2280D Pin 3 -> Pin 7
G173/Random ground -> Pin 10

I think that covers most of it but if there are more question please ask while all this is fresh in my mind xD

 

That was really generous of you to write up. This should be stickied. And even I could follow this.

The only piece of information that might be missing is a part number for the sub-to-amp pigtail if one must piece it together? Do you know it? And how in the world are you getting these part numbers?

 

I dont know if this is the right part number or not but the picture looks right but cross referencing the part number it shows me the TPMS plug instead. But there should be no reason why anyone would have cut of the connector as the entire cable is no more than 6" long lol.



As for part numbers my main source is Tascaparts.com The website there is setup very nicely and lets me find part numbers super fast. For pigtails I use the motorcraft pigtail catalog the cross reference them through google. A wiring diagram book also goes a long way in identifying plugs.

as far as a sticky goes I dont mind I just hope I get a chance to change the title

 

Thanks for trying. I think I understand now, I think you are saying the sub-to-amp pigtail is permanently attached to the sub.

I didn't realize this and figured a seller might be motivated to sell the amp, bracket, sub and pigtail each separately. If this were true, the pigtail would likely be the hardest piece to get.

 

Yea the sub to amp pigtail is permanently attached to the sub. The only real pigtail you have to worry about getting is the body harness to amp pigtail, But i did provide the part number for that one if you need to buy it new.

 

Boy I tell ya, this little CANopener from 4d Tech really did the job, Got my backup camera and subwoofer now thanks to this little gem.

 

They don't show a subwoofer output programmer for SYNC Gen 1. Did I miss it or did they cook it up just for you?

 

Unfortunately they didnt make a CAN Flash for the sub woofer for gen 1 radios. I emailed them and told them that it would be nice to see one, for people that started where I was. But I bought a shaker pro head unit and bought the #11 flash for the backup camera. It got me where I needed to be but It would have been better to have one to update the head unit to accept the sub.

 

Bummer. I emailed them too.

 

I have nav with 500 shaker... After that do as post #27, is required program as built after play & plug adding amp with subwoofer 1000 shaker?

 

i just picked up the sub assembly and waiting for some wire to come in and give it a whirl seams pretty straight forward and the dealership by me said they can change the build info on the nav unit

 

Not sure if you are still around but looking into stock piling for this mod on my 2013 GT/CS vert.

Mine is a Navigation car with Shaker speakers and amp.

Im trying to find what is the part number to look for the radio/CD module. As there is about 5 variations. The online parts stores are hard to cross reference. I know Ford parts and service centers has the ability using the vin but looking for clues as they are not convenient to me or sometimes friendly when you are not buying or getting service. There is about 5 variations for 2013-2014 cars with Nav, DR3T/AC is overly common and I believe this is the standard speaker one. It has to be one of the other four. I have not pulled mine out. I know first letter D means 2013 and E is 2014. Might help narrow down to two options for searching a receiver with the Pro900or1000 sub enabled. Do you remember what you bought when upgrading?