2013 Boss 302 stereo upgrade questions
#1
2013 Boss 302 stereo upgrade questions
I bought a set of GT Premium door panels to install in my Boss, and plan on installing a pair of JL ZR800CWs in the doors, and a nice set of component speakers, similar to the setup posted by ColSaulTigh. Will definitely steal the tweeter mount idea, but will get another set of parts to keep the Boss interior bits all original.
Right now I have 2 pairs of JL Audio 6x8's in the doors and the rear deck hooked up to an ancient (and failing-channel cuts out at low volume) Yamaha YPA-1020 2/3/4 channel amp. The sound coming out of this setup is an abomination... The stock base head unit sucks so bad it is barely passable for talk radio, never mind something that should deliver decent audio. I'm using a PAC-Audio FRD24 module to hook into the factory harness.
The high back cloth Recaros render the rear deck 6x8's useless to front seat passengers - which is why I got the Shaker door panels so I can get some bass up front.
I wondered if the stock Shaker 500 is configured that the 8" speakers in the doors are subs or are they midwoofers?
What would be the most cost effective solution to get the best sound of the JL 8" in the doors? I planned on using the head unit amp to power the component speakers and rears, and a dedicated amp for the JLs. Maybe something as simple as a cheap Pioneer amp like the GM-3500T.
How best to integrate with the factory harness? I think I can keep using the Pac-Audio module, but as I've seen with other installs, there are more expensive line level devices that offer fine tuning frequency control.
In the future I could put a sub in the truck, a la StealthBox, but wanted to see if my current project would do just fine with all the sound concentrated up front in the doors.
I've done a lot of the hard parts already by getting my own speaker wires run and the amp installed under the rear deck. The Yamaha had holes in the case at all 4 corners, which allowed me to hang it under the rear deck - as I knew it would be temporary - by the use of some industrial tie wraps. Allows for easy access and removal if I need the room or hit the track some day.
Right now I have 2 pairs of JL Audio 6x8's in the doors and the rear deck hooked up to an ancient (and failing-channel cuts out at low volume) Yamaha YPA-1020 2/3/4 channel amp. The sound coming out of this setup is an abomination... The stock base head unit sucks so bad it is barely passable for talk radio, never mind something that should deliver decent audio. I'm using a PAC-Audio FRD24 module to hook into the factory harness.
The high back cloth Recaros render the rear deck 6x8's useless to front seat passengers - which is why I got the Shaker door panels so I can get some bass up front.
I wondered if the stock Shaker 500 is configured that the 8" speakers in the doors are subs or are they midwoofers?
What would be the most cost effective solution to get the best sound of the JL 8" in the doors? I planned on using the head unit amp to power the component speakers and rears, and a dedicated amp for the JLs. Maybe something as simple as a cheap Pioneer amp like the GM-3500T.
How best to integrate with the factory harness? I think I can keep using the Pac-Audio module, but as I've seen with other installs, there are more expensive line level devices that offer fine tuning frequency control.
In the future I could put a sub in the truck, a la StealthBox, but wanted to see if my current project would do just fine with all the sound concentrated up front in the doors.
I've done a lot of the hard parts already by getting my own speaker wires run and the amp installed under the rear deck. The Yamaha had holes in the case at all 4 corners, which allowed me to hang it under the rear deck - as I knew it would be temporary - by the use of some industrial tie wraps. Allows for easy access and removal if I need the room or hit the track some day.
#2
Howdy Ace!
Thanks for the compliment - btw, I stole the tweeter idea from someone else, so go right ahead and steal it from me
The Shaker 500 system treats the 8" as "Subwoofers" although they're barely passable for that function. The JL ZR800's are midwoofers, and should be crossed over in the 100 - 400hz range - no lower, and no higher (give or take). To really get Bass, you'll need an amp and a stealthbox (or some other subwoofer).
As for powering them, if you don't want to use separate amps, I'd run the front channel to your separate components, and the rear channel to the 8" drivers in the door (this is what I did with the pre-outs) and abandon the rear deck entirely. The rear speakers are useless and will not be missed at all.
As for the factory harness, since you don't have SYNC, you need something that will interface with the steering wheel controls without being overkill. I can't help much there, as I got the iDataLink Maestro RR which is designed to incorporate SYNC (although to be honest I never use it).
BTW, given the age of your Yamaha, hanging it upside down will most likely kill it faster than expected - it's not designed for heat to rise up through it, and it'll "bake in it's own juices" so to speak. Newer amps are built to diffuse heat out the sides and they don't care as much how you hang them.
Anyway, will be monitoring this thread, so feel free to ask questions - others will be happy to chime in as well.
Enjoy!
Thanks for the compliment - btw, I stole the tweeter idea from someone else, so go right ahead and steal it from me
The Shaker 500 system treats the 8" as "Subwoofers" although they're barely passable for that function. The JL ZR800's are midwoofers, and should be crossed over in the 100 - 400hz range - no lower, and no higher (give or take). To really get Bass, you'll need an amp and a stealthbox (or some other subwoofer).
As for powering them, if you don't want to use separate amps, I'd run the front channel to your separate components, and the rear channel to the 8" drivers in the door (this is what I did with the pre-outs) and abandon the rear deck entirely. The rear speakers are useless and will not be missed at all.
As for the factory harness, since you don't have SYNC, you need something that will interface with the steering wheel controls without being overkill. I can't help much there, as I got the iDataLink Maestro RR which is designed to incorporate SYNC (although to be honest I never use it).
BTW, given the age of your Yamaha, hanging it upside down will most likely kill it faster than expected - it's not designed for heat to rise up through it, and it'll "bake in it's own juices" so to speak. Newer amps are built to diffuse heat out the sides and they don't care as much how you hang them.
Anyway, will be monitoring this thread, so feel free to ask questions - others will be happy to chime in as well.
Enjoy!
#3
Thanks for the reply.
I do have Sync, I just don't really feel the need to pay extra to keep that functionality.
Also, I said I mounted the amp under the rear deck, didn't say it was mounted upside down =) . It's hanging right side up suspended by tie wraps.
As I already have speakers in the rear deck, I don't mind powering them with the 4x channels from the head unit. I agree you get little to nothing out of the rears, if my budget is tight and I can't swing a replacement amp, I'll just power the door speakers with the head unit.
What's the best method to set the frequency between the JLs and the component speakers?
I do have Sync, I just don't really feel the need to pay extra to keep that functionality.
Also, I said I mounted the amp under the rear deck, didn't say it was mounted upside down =) . It's hanging right side up suspended by tie wraps.
As I already have speakers in the rear deck, I don't mind powering them with the 4x channels from the head unit. I agree you get little to nothing out of the rears, if my budget is tight and I can't swing a replacement amp, I'll just power the door speakers with the head unit.
What's the best method to set the frequency between the JLs and the component speakers?
#4
Thanks for the reply.
I do have Sync, I just don't really feel the need to pay extra to keep that functionality.
Also, I said I mounted the amp under the rear deck, didn't say it was mounted upside down =) . It's hanging right side up suspended by tie wraps.
As I already have speakers in the rear deck, I don't mind powering them with the 4x channels from the head unit. I agree you get little to nothing out of the rears, if my budget is tight and I can't swing a replacement amp, I'll just power the door speakers with the head unit.
What's the best method to set the frequency between the JLs and the component speakers?
I do have Sync, I just don't really feel the need to pay extra to keep that functionality.
Also, I said I mounted the amp under the rear deck, didn't say it was mounted upside down =) . It's hanging right side up suspended by tie wraps.
As I already have speakers in the rear deck, I don't mind powering them with the 4x channels from the head unit. I agree you get little to nothing out of the rears, if my budget is tight and I can't swing a replacement amp, I'll just power the door speakers with the head unit.
What's the best method to set the frequency between the JLs and the component speakers?
#5
This looks like it will suit my needs;
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X250...H-X2500BT.html
Been weighing the pros/cons of paying extra for Crutchfield, but if I'm gonna buy the iDatalink dash kit, I can't see any reason to pay extra for accessories/parts I won't need if they are all included in the other kit?
Amazon.com: Pioneer AVH-X2500BT 2-DIN Multimedia DVD Receiver with 6.1" WVGA Touchscreen Display: Automotive
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X250...H-X2500BT.html
Been weighing the pros/cons of paying extra for Crutchfield, but if I'm gonna buy the iDatalink dash kit, I can't see any reason to pay extra for accessories/parts I won't need if they are all included in the other kit?
#6
This looks like it will suit my needs;
Amazon.com: Pioneer AVH-X2500BT 2-DIN Multimedia DVD Receiver with 6.1" WVGA Touchscreen Display: Automotive
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X250...H-X2500BT.html
Been weighing the pros/cons of paying extra for Crutchfield, but if I'm gonna buy the iDatalink dash kit, I can't see any reason to pay extra for accessories/parts I won't need if they are all included in the other kit?
Amazon.com: Pioneer AVH-X2500BT 2-DIN Multimedia DVD Receiver with 6.1" WVGA Touchscreen Display: Automotive
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X250...H-X2500BT.html
Been weighing the pros/cons of paying extra for Crutchfield, but if I'm gonna buy the iDatalink dash kit, I can't see any reason to pay extra for accessories/parts I won't need if they are all included in the other kit?
Cheers,
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