2010-2014 Mustang Shelby/Kicker 8" Door Woofer Opinions*
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046
This kicker sub can be paralleled down to 1.1 ohms to match the impedance of the factory woofers. The Shelby subs are 4 ohm dvc and can only be paralleled down to 2 ohms. That will only use half the power of the factory amp where as the kickers in the link would use the full power.
This kicker sub can be paralleled down to 1.1 ohms to match the impedance of the factory woofers. The Shelby subs are 4 ohm dvc and can only be paralleled down to 2 ohms. That will only use half the power of the factory amp where as the kickers in the link would use the full power.
The problem with subs other than the Shelby's is mounting. The Shelby's come complete with an offset spacer and a mounting hole in the rear of the sub just like OEM to allow you use the same bolt which I'm sure helps with the integrity/rigidity of the whole door enclosure. Judging by how Ford basically has all the other speakers basically floating in air with nothing resembling an enclosure (keeping front and rear sound waves from cancelling one another) I'd say anything to improve that is a definite plus. Not saying that you can use other subs but the Shelby's are by far the easiest way to go...that is providing you add amplification. YMMV
Tripleshot;
With the processor and JL amp for the 4 mains, what did you do to drive your subs?
I bought the Shelby 4.1 amp, shelby kicker subs and Kicker KS680s and I need more oomph from the subs. I also wouldnt mind a little more oomph for the 4 main speakers as well and my remove the Shelby 4.1 amp and sell it.....
With the processor and JL amp for the 4 mains, what did you do to drive your subs?
I bought the Shelby 4.1 amp, shelby kicker subs and Kicker KS680s and I need more oomph from the subs. I also wouldnt mind a little more oomph for the 4 main speakers as well and my remove the Shelby 4.1 amp and sell it.....
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