I think that would look sick on my black 5.0

edit: any plans to black out your grille?

 

Yep ordered Roush Grille!

 

Cool.. when it comes in and you install, if you'd like to get rid of your CS grill, let me know, i'm interested in buying one

 

Just sent you a PM

 

[quote=SilverHorseRacing;6017245]Heck, we're even adding more technical drawings to things like the fuel door to eliminate any confusion of the nylon bushing stack order so that it will eliminate a lot of the calls we get about the upper right #4 mount (the one that doesn't have a nut on purpose but lots of people ask about).


LOL I thought when I got my silverhorse racing fuel door it was missing a nut!!! Now I see it's suppose to be like this. GREAT FIT!!

 

I've been on the fence about this fuel door for quite some time. Not only the door but the finish as well. I must say it looks very good on your car.

 

Can you provide some details on the install? Also, how durable is this product; will it withstand a Canadian winter?

Thanks.

~Darren

 

To the durability:

It is made from U.S. or Western European (German) spec 6061-T6 solid aircraft alloy, weighs about 6 Lbs when we start, ~1 Lb when complete. No other imported aluminum is allowed in our door. All stainless steel hardware including precision ground hinge washers, with the exception of the press-fit magnets and the strike plate, which is made from a corrosion-resistant, proprietary magnetic compound.

Bright Dip (satin) anodize finish is very durable, black anodize is mil-spec finish, and the triple-layer chrome finish is subjected to a 45 hour salt-spray test (surpasses OE specs) for external "bright" work - equivalant to approx. 5 years in a high salt (coastal) environment.

To the fit:

We designed the part in concert with Ford's tech-transfer program. We modeled the part using the original tooling models for the quarter panel from Ford. Final prototypes were fitted to actual cars to confirm that the computer models matched production samples before we started production.

To install:

See the attached PDF. It takes about 15 mintues for a first-timer to do it, most of the time is to remove the stock plastic housing around the filler neck. After that, it goes real quick and uses existing holes in the sheet metal - no metal drilling required, 100% bolt-on, and reversible in the future if desired.

Hope that helps!

 

At work (military aviation) we use T-3 a lot also called O-material because it is very soft and can be shaped to just about anything. After it is shaped we heat it in an oven usually 12 -24 hours and it comes out T-6 then it's trimmed, alodined and installed on the aircraft.

 

Very cool. We have done flight-level components in the past, but never dealt with the heat-treat specs in-house (always sent out and certified separately).

We use 6061-T6 because it is a good, consistent material without voids, and our finishers like the way it goes through the anodize baths. It also cuts very well in our CNC equipment. There are other grade alloys we could use, but the cost is so close on many of them that it's just not worth the potential cost savings to have other issues.

I've also used 7076 grade alloy in wheel adapters and other "mission critical" pieces for our race cars and the like, and I can tell you the cost of that material definitely makes it suitable only where it is required, and not just "desired".

Of course, there's inconel, titanium, magnesium, hastalloy, 316 stainless, and a host of other fun materials to play with, but luckily we don't have to machine much of that around here regularly - although one of our new products is using a good bit of 303 SS right now in production...

 

Can someone post a pic with the fuel door open? I was wondering when filling if I need to worry about the outside ring surface getting scratched when filling because when visiting some states that won't let you pump your own gas. (I know why would I go there

 

Oddly enough, we don't have any like that (I did look, even through our new customer photo section), but I can take one for you next time I'm thinking about it near the car. It's not an issue though, the opening is ~5" diameter, which is large enough for all the modern evaporative filler necks out there. It is the same size door we have used since 2005, and we have literally 1,000's of them in the field without an issue.

I hear what you're saying on the heavy-handed gas station attendants, but they'd have to be seriously sniffing too much fumes to take a whack at the ring, it's only ~1" in thickness around the outer edge of the opening.

HTH.

 

A video guide would be nice...

 

$5 says it will be purple in a year...

 

That's not very cool. Do you have any experience with their products? I personally do not but it looks solid and from what the rep is saying it sounds like their not just making stuff up

 

If you treat one of our pieces from current production with the same care as any painted surface on the car (no harsh chemicals, keep it waxed, don't use scotch-brite pads on it to clean it, etc) and avoid strong acidic or basic solutions, I'll gladly take that bet...

Kidding / gambling aside, anodizing is a chemical process that creates a boundary layer on the surface of a part. The pigment (color) actually enters the pores of the metal on a microscopic level, and is then sealed in a final step to "close" the pores of the metal and produce a lasting finish. Anytime the colored pigments (red, blue, black, gold, etc.) are exposed to UV, over time there can be some fading or color shifting depending upon what the base dyes are, hence why the cowl cover on any Mustang since 1979 looks the way it does after a while and why smoke window tint tends to turn bluish-purple as it ages and red metallic cars eventually look like a nice shade of pink.

Then mix in the fact that many automatic car washes are not balanced properly (we manufacture components for testing the caustic solutions of caustic commercial laundries as well that will chemically burn skin on contact), and it becomes clear that any finish can have issues if the right set of circumstances are presented (even overzealous home users with strong soaps / cleaners). Over the past few years as we have grown, we have worked through different finishers until we settled on the one that we now use that also supplies military, aerospace, and many other industries throughout the state. They do great work, and our rate of issues with finish problems has almost (I say almost) disappeared. While we'd love to be able to our finishing in-house, the sad truth is that the current EPA regs make that almost impossible.

The simple fact is that unfortunately we cannot control what happens to a lot of our products once they leave our hands. I've personally seen it all - cars backed up with the fuel door open buckling the quarter panel, Flush-mount louvers attempted to be mounted to a vehicle inside-out, chrome parts exposed to harsh salted winter roads and not washed for months, etc.. so there are always going to be issues, but the fact that if it's something we caused, we stand behind it, and that in my opinion is what makes the difference.

That, and just how we do things to minimize the possibility of someone having a problem:

1) DFAR (mil-spec) certified 6061-T6 alloy used in all our Tru-Billet parts
2) All stainless steel hardware with the exception of our magnets and strike plates (most stainless is non-magnetic) and all assembled with loctite to avoid loss or electrolytic corrosion between dissimilar metals.
3) All anodizing done now by a single facility here in FL that handles only anodizing, and nothing else so if a problem does occur, it is easy to determine how the problem happened.
4) All chrome work handled by a single source in CA that CASS salt-spray test certifies our finish to exceed GM and Ford standards.
5) All machining done in-house, all parts come back to us after finishing for final inspection, assembly, and check-out before shipping to customers with an initial coat of wax already applied by hand.

Basically - not trying to be all "high and mighty" or stir the pot, just trying to explain some of the processes as well as the depths which we go to try and do the best job possible for our customers.

 

MC,

I really like the appearance of your black anodized fuel door and I would love to get one for my 2013 Shelby, however, are there any plans to offer a "Shelby" or "GT500" etching to add to the "GT" and "5.0" offerings currently displayed?

 

How about "Boss 302" or something similar? I'm back and forth with getting the black one for my Boss (continuing the black accents), but I think it'd be nice to have it read "Boss." Also, for anyone on the fence about SHR's products, I bought their faux chrome fuel filler door for my '06 GT and lived near the ocean for the entire time I had that car. It was only garaged for about a year and a half and that piece was one of the most complimented additions I made to my car. It looked amazing and with a little chrome polish, added a lot to the car. I'd imagine these fuel doors would be no different.

 

Not very cool? I have these on 3 Mustangs and Im now on my 3rd one that is turning purple. I also have one on my Mach 1 that is turning purple. You have no experience and I do yet you call me uncool?

I like Silverhorse Racing. They were kind enough to swap them out and blame multiple anodizers but the problem remains.

No I dont use Scotch pads to clean the cars.
They are all hand washed with very mild soap.
I told you that before.

The UV coating just wasnt there. The sun turns it.

I love the product....just wish it didnt turn purple.

I thought the last swap would be the last one to turn but here we go again.

Are you 100% sure your new vendor coats these with UV protection?

Hopefully SHR will also exchange out the one on the Mach....?
(I can snap a picture of it as well)



and one I put on Barry so you can see the color diff-



Barry stays inside and the Saleen gets out and about (as does the Mach).
So Sun exposure is what does it.

Is there a coating or a certain wax that may help inhibit the UV purple syndrome?
Trust me - I dont like this either!

 

We are the preferred supplier for Shelby on 2010+ parts, here's the link as we do not sell them directly at this time (they have just released, and there is GT500, Shelby, Super Snake, and GT350 logos available):
http://www.shelbystore.com/category-s/59.htm

Unfortunately Boss is a trademark of Ford Motor Company and we are very respectful of other company's trademarks. I do however know that Ford Racing has had prototypes with the SVT engraving on them since 2010, so it's not like we didn't offer Maybe give them a call and ask when they will call us about doing them?

In the meantime, 302 is "open" on a custom basis, we do not currently have plans to do them as a normal production piece, but I know we just did one the other day for a car in CA. We're also working on a new website, and it will have a "custom shop" section where a lot of this will be able to be done online, although in reality whenever custom orders are involved, direct phone or email is better to make sure everyone is on the same page before we put tool to metal.

And we have had multiple anodizers - tough though when it is not a consistent problem even when you're sticking with them for a while. The current one we have been using for almost two years now, and we have had very good results, consistent color quality, and minimal problems in the field, which is why we eliminated the other two we also had sometime late last year, leaving us with just this single-source. I can still be honest though and say colors like red will fade unless protected - there just isn't any way around that, but the same holds true for any finish, be it paint, powdercoat, etc... Depending on when your doors were done, there may be a "secret" code on the part that would determine who did the finishing, but I'd rather not discuss that in a public forum (it's also one way we use to detect counterfeits).

We'll be happy to have you return them and we'll have them stripped and refinished by our current finisher - turnaround is ~3-4 weeks depending on where we are with things in process, but they can do it, and we are happy to take care of you on it. Shoot me a direct email at info@silverhorseracing.com

UV protection - most of the good waxes will help - we are about to release one with 3x the normal UV protection in it because we're in FL and it is a problem not so much on anodize, but on the metallic cars down here that just get beaten by the sun over time (champagne pink is what we nicknamed laser red metallic). But even using a good name-brand wax, it is just like suncscreen applied to your skin - it has to be applied often for maximum protection, as the UV inhibitors break down as they do their job.