BMR panhard bar installed...thoughts/impressions
Cobra Member
Joined: August 22, 2010
Posts: 1,313
Likes: 1
From: Northern VA
that looked awesome! So that red z was yours? I thought it was Dan's.
Thread Starter
I Have No Life
Joined: September 24, 2011
Posts: 10,141
Likes: 172
Np on the swirls... I got it all out. I look at it as another hour I got to spend with Marilyn.
Bullitt Member
Joined: October 19, 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
I'm glad you got your car sorted! For future reference/readers....
Drivers side will drop when the driver sits in the car and consequently will add neg camber to the drivers side. Most likely would have been even camber on your car when you were driving,which is when your tires are wearing and not when your looking at it parked.
It seems that many of you are picky with your alignment, if that's the case I'd recommend you sitting in the car with half a tank of gas to replicate your driving conditions during the alignment. Or go buy some rice bags and put it on your seat. Most performance/track alignment shops will recommend this.
As for the amount of camber on a street car, it really depends on your driving style. I'm fairly aggressive and I have the most amount of tread life with a 2-2.5 negative camber setting. Anything less and I wear through my outside before the inside even with that much negative camber. -1.8 to a -1 would be fairly negligible in tire wear, especially if your rotating with the rear since its a preset 0 camber.
As for slotting vs camber bolts. I really don't see much gain by slotting. Your essentially enlarging the hole vs shrinking the bolt to have some adjustability. Both can slip. I've been running bolts in my cars for all of my cars I tracked with no I'll effect. Btw adding camber plates usually adds around $80 to your alignment costs at least in my area. A good read on plates vs bolts...google kennybrown camber
Drivers side will drop when the driver sits in the car and consequently will add neg camber to the drivers side. Most likely would have been even camber on your car when you were driving,which is when your tires are wearing and not when your looking at it parked.
It seems that many of you are picky with your alignment, if that's the case I'd recommend you sitting in the car with half a tank of gas to replicate your driving conditions during the alignment. Or go buy some rice bags and put it on your seat. Most performance/track alignment shops will recommend this.
As for the amount of camber on a street car, it really depends on your driving style. I'm fairly aggressive and I have the most amount of tread life with a 2-2.5 negative camber setting. Anything less and I wear through my outside before the inside even with that much negative camber. -1.8 to a -1 would be fairly negligible in tire wear, especially if your rotating with the rear since its a preset 0 camber.
As for slotting vs camber bolts. I really don't see much gain by slotting. Your essentially enlarging the hole vs shrinking the bolt to have some adjustability. Both can slip. I've been running bolts in my cars for all of my cars I tracked with no I'll effect. Btw adding camber plates usually adds around $80 to your alignment costs at least in my area. A good read on plates vs bolts...google kennybrown camber
Member
Joined: January 5, 2012
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Recently had orange koni's, steeda ultralites, gt500 strut mounts and j/m panhard installed in a '12. Toe was slightly out of spec. Camber was -1.3 opted not to correct with bolts. Passenger side pan hard adjustment nut loosened up within 3 days and gave a rattle. I installed the stock bar for now, no rear noises.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: August 1, 2011
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Recently had orange koni's, steeda ultralites, gt500 strut mounts and j/m panhard installed in a '12. Toe was slightly out of spec. Camber was -1.3 opted not to correct with bolts. Passenger side pan hard adjustment nut loosened up within 3 days and gave a rattle. I installed the stock bar for now, no rear noises.
Thread Starter
I Have No Life
Joined: September 24, 2011
Posts: 10,141
Likes: 172
Thread Starter
I Have No Life
Joined: September 24, 2011
Posts: 10,141
Likes: 172
Cobra R Member
Joined: June 24, 2011
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
Im gonna be doing all this in the Spring. Steeda Ultralites, Koni Str.t's, and GT500 mounts. Any other better mounts to use? I dont want anything to be out of spec. What is the best way to go about it??
Member
Joined: January 5, 2012
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
My front camber was in spec with gt500 mounts and ultralites -1.1, -1.2. Within spec is up to -1.5.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 20, 2011
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: KY/OH/MO
OPTIMUM IMHO:
LEFT CASTER 5.0 or more
RIGHT CASTER 5.2 or more
LEFT & RIGHT CAMBER -1.3
TOE .10
THis is from Steeda's Website:
General street use:
Camber -.8° to -1.1°
Caster Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe 3/32" (.0937") toe in
For agressive street use;
Camber: -1.2° to -1.5°
Caster: Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe: 3/32" (.0937") toe in
For Road Race/Autocross:
Camber: -1.8° to -2.8°
Caster: Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe: 3/32 Toe in to 1/8 Toe out (Track dependent)
Drag Racing
Camber: -.3° to -.6°
Caster: Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe: 1/16" (.0625") Toe In.
LEFT CASTER 5.0 or more
RIGHT CASTER 5.2 or more
LEFT & RIGHT CAMBER -1.3
TOE .10
THis is from Steeda's Website:
General street use:
Camber -.8° to -1.1°
Caster Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe 3/32" (.0937") toe in
For agressive street use;
Camber: -1.2° to -1.5°
Caster: Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe: 3/32" (.0937") toe in
For Road Race/Autocross:
Camber: -1.8° to -2.8°
Caster: Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe: 3/32 Toe in to 1/8 Toe out (Track dependent)
Drag Racing
Camber: -.3° to -.6°
Caster: Maximum positive (5° or more)
Toe: 1/16" (.0625") Toe In.
