14mustang v6

So I drive a 2014 mustang v6 has 5k miles on it.. I want to put the Sr lowering springs on. The ones on American muscle. 1.5 inch drops. If u guys could help me out what all do I need to buy? I know I need the panhard bar.. but do I also need the plates?

What do u think of this set up for now.

http://m.americanmuscle.com/sr-strut-brace-springs-kit-0514.html

http://m.americanmuscle.com/2005-powdercoated-rear-trailing-arms.html

http://m.americanmuscle.com/jm-panhard-0509.html

http://m.americanmuscle.com/whiteline-lca-relocationbrackets-0513.html

Will those help me with traction off the line? Because I'm about to put in my 3.73 gear

michael 20

I have the Panhard bar and support brace, Koni yellow shocks and Koni orange front struts and the ford lowering springs which drops it 1.5" all around and I would recommend getting the caster camber plates because my alignment was pretty messed up but it was drivable, I have 3.55 gears and even with the sr performance lower control arms it's still hard to get traction on a high rev launch, (2,500 rpms) but I could only imagine what it would be like without them, rubber going everywhere

Matt's 95 Stang

You will need springs, CC plates (if your going with a 1.5in or lower), adj PHB, shocks and struts, and alignment. If you have the money you can also go with LCAs, relocation brackets for the LCA, and a adj UCA.

Matthew

spqr

You will need:

Adjustable UCA; as the pinion angle (angle of the diff) will be incorrect.
The springs are what will actually lower the vehicle, so you need those.
Adjustable Panhard Bar; the stock phb will cause the rear axle to be pushed off a little bit to one side when lowered
Camber bolts or CC plates; When you lower the car, the front wheels will lean inwards, and you will need these to make them upright again. The bolts should be sufficient if you don't lower the car very far; they offer a smaller range of adjustment than the cc plates.
Alignment; it will be off after lowering, so you need to get it straightened out or you'll tear up your tires.



You may want:

Relocation brackets are needed depending on the size of the drop. As the car gets lowered, it changes the angle of the LCA's. (Someone correct me if my physics is off. It's been a while) The change in angle means that as you accelerate, the wheels will tend to push the car body down while car's inertia will tend to push the axle and wheels up away from the ground, reducing traction. If the drop is minimal, it shouldn't be an issue.
Lower control arms; replacements are lighter than stock and have stiffer bushings. They're a cheap upgrade, and easy to do.
Shocks & Struts; you can run the car lowered on the stock shocks and struts, but my understanding is that they tend to wear out pretty quickly after lowering and I believe you run the risk of busting one if you fully load your suspension (eg: hitting a speed bump to quickly).