Hello,
how much can I lower mustang 2012 without changing control arms, sway bars, pan hard bar etc. ????
Thank you

 

I'm not an expert but all of these mustangs are a little different in the rear. I've read of cars that were factory and the rear end was out of line. So you may need a panhard bar anyway. As far as the rest, it seems like less than 1 inch was the line for limiting a bunch of extra parts.

 

I agree. Anything more than an inch in the front you will need parts to keep everything in line. As for the rear>> as others have stated. Even factory set up may be off center and require a panhard bar. Lower it and it will need a new adjustable panhard bar.
I would not go any lower than 1/2" in the front or you will end up having problems with clearance of driveways / speed bumps. If you run a World challenge or LS splitter than the bottoming out factor will increase ALOT!
Your car your call. There are just so many factors to take in, its just very hard to give the exact answer.

Motor On My friend!

 

Standard lowering is 1 inch in the front and 1.5 inch in the rear. I went with the Steeda Sports made for our v6 Mustangs. Most people use springs made for the GT. Measure the off set of your rear end before you change the springs, it might end up closer to perfect after you change them. I was lucky and didn't need to buy an adjustable pan hard bar but most people do

I'm not sure how the roads are in your Country so be careful before you lower.

 

This is a tough question to answer ... for these reasons.

Steeda generally does not recommend going too low because you start changing the geometry of the suspension ... these cars have a certain sweet spot & we have found that to be in the 1" - 1.25" range. When you "slam" the car ... the drivability can be unfavorable.

At the least, we would recommend a panhard bar when lowering because the rear-end tends to kick out when you lower the vehicle. You could lower first & then see what the rear does.

Now, you can get away with just springs ... but other OEM parts may show signs of premature wear, like the shocks & struts & the mounts. Think about it like this ... you upgrade your TV to 4K, the Blue Ray Player will still work, but it won't work to the level it needs to, to take full advantage of the 4K TV.

If upgrading the springs, you may want to look at HD mounts with shocks & struts since they can all be done at the same time, in regards to labor.

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang...5-14-555-8216/
http://www.steeda.com/steeda-adjusta...ar-555-2551-a/
http://www.steeda.com/steeda-pro-act...s-555-8405-11/
http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang...unts-555-8135/

Happy to put you in contact with our build experts to help with your build ... you can email me at tim@steeda.com.

Best Regards,

TJ