How many of you have changed your LCA & UCA
How many of you have changed your LCA & UCA
I haven't changed mines yet but I'm wondering if any of you fellow v6 owners have wheel hop or have had the need to change your upper and lower control arms. I don't have any wheel hop so I don't see a need to change either one. What do you guys think?
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I've 'never' had any wheel hop. I do have traction problems. I thought changing to GT500 rear lower control arms would help, it didn't
. The GT500 lower control arms look better than the factory ones i had, so i'm happy
. The GT500 lower control arms look better than the factory ones i had, so i'm happy
I see the GT guys talking about it for obvious reasons but wanna know how many of us v6 guys have changed them out for better handling, traction, or wheel hop issues.
If you would like your car to handle better, whether or not you have wheel hop, I would at least get a good UCA and mount. I had lowered my car and done LCA's and PHB before doing a UCA and I was still able to feel a difference after doing the UCA.
Yea I can see how it will handle better over stock but you also have a GT (more hp & torque). That's why I ask the question for V6 to see who has noticed improvement after install.
True, I have more power but I don't nail it at every light. The difference I felt most was in the dynamic of the car. With the UCA being replaced it now feels like the entire car is one piece, instead of a front and rear that are on the same frame. Even if you have no wheel hop but want a better handling car I would suggest the UCA.
I go by Kenny Brown for my suspension advice on Mustangs, he has had an amazing record with them. He has a great video series that explains the steps he goes through in the build, and I would follow the approach (videos are in a 6-part series: http://www.kennybrown.com/kbtv?page=2).
Step 1 - Chassis Support - Strut Tower Brace and Lower Chassis Brace - Easy place to start, and pretty much a no-brainer. Ford even puts STBs on the PP V6 Mustangs, they do help. Together with the lower chassis brace, you will get some pretty decent chassis stiffening in the front (and box it in) for about $200 and an hour of work.
Step 2 - Chassis Support - Extreme Matrix Brace (Subframe Connectors) - These are probably your best bang-for-the-buck mod as far as chassis/suspension goes. You will immediately get better traction, a better ride, and it will keep the chassis from flexing so much through the years. Again, for about $250 and a couple hours of labor, it is a very sound upgrade.
Step 3 - RLCA and Relocation Brackets -
Step 4 - Rear UCA - most people usually do this with step 3. Kenny explains what this does and why it makes sense.
Step 5 - Adjustable Panhard Rod and Relocation Brackets - I have this, big upgrade. With this, along with the RLCAs, relocation brackets, and rear UCA, you don't even need a rear sway bar anymore, they're that good.
Step 6 - Front LCAs - last step, again Kenny does a good job of explaining what they do.
I agree with KB -- there's a lot more speed to be found in the chassis than in the suspension. You have to address the weakest link first, and that is the chassis. Plus, stiffening the chassis makes every mod down the road you do that much better, because you're not losing a percentage of the mod's benefit to chassis flex.
Step 1 - Chassis Support - Strut Tower Brace and Lower Chassis Brace - Easy place to start, and pretty much a no-brainer. Ford even puts STBs on the PP V6 Mustangs, they do help. Together with the lower chassis brace, you will get some pretty decent chassis stiffening in the front (and box it in) for about $200 and an hour of work.
Step 2 - Chassis Support - Extreme Matrix Brace (Subframe Connectors) - These are probably your best bang-for-the-buck mod as far as chassis/suspension goes. You will immediately get better traction, a better ride, and it will keep the chassis from flexing so much through the years. Again, for about $250 and a couple hours of labor, it is a very sound upgrade.
Step 3 - RLCA and Relocation Brackets -
Step 4 - Rear UCA - most people usually do this with step 3. Kenny explains what this does and why it makes sense.
Step 5 - Adjustable Panhard Rod and Relocation Brackets - I have this, big upgrade. With this, along with the RLCAs, relocation brackets, and rear UCA, you don't even need a rear sway bar anymore, they're that good.
Step 6 - Front LCAs - last step, again Kenny does a good job of explaining what they do.
I agree with KB -- there's a lot more speed to be found in the chassis than in the suspension. You have to address the weakest link first, and that is the chassis. Plus, stiffening the chassis makes every mod down the road you do that much better, because you're not losing a percentage of the mod's benefit to chassis flex.
True, I have more power but I don't nail it at every light. The difference I felt most was in the dynamic of the car. With the UCA being replaced it now feels like the entire car is one piece, instead of a front and rear that are on the same frame. Even if you have no wheel hop but want a better handling car I would suggest the UCA.
I have step 3 and 5 above done when I had the car lowered, except I didn't use KB products. I felt handling improved immediately so I feel it was worth the green.
Last edited by V6 Driver; Jan 1, 2014 at 01:13 PM.
ive had a ton of wheel hop since day one. off the line and 1-2 shift. not sure if it has something to do with me having a manual or not. i have a good bit less now that i put 295 width tires on there compared to the stock 235 but i still plan to get upper and lower control arms soon.
ive had a ton of wheel hop since day one. off the line and 1-2 shift. not sure if it has something to do with me having a manual or not. i have a good bit less now that i put 295 width tires on there compared to the stock 235 but i still plan to get upper and lower control arms soon.
Are you lowered? From what I've read and seen from friends with there Stangs ( all guys with 5.0s tho) installing a aftermarket UCA & mount with get rid of wheel hop and just LCAs may or may not do the trick. After reading and talking with other v6 owners only 1 said they installed uca/lca for better handling as he does road courses. That's why I pose the question to see if most v6 owners think they don't need it or see a reason to change it out.
huge improvement over stock cornering, especially in the rain, I feel completely planted on the ground.
next mod….wheels and tires!
i had some slight wheel hop, which was eliminated with the upgraded parts(whiteLine). I am running 2.73s, which I believe is a great ratio for these 3.7L
watch Bobonthebobo eat up these 3.73s with his 2.73s
Long gears offer more pros on an automatic
watch Bobonthebobo eat up these 3.73s with his 2.73s
Long gears offer more pros on an automatic
Last edited by CVH; Jan 4, 2014 at 02:49 PM.
Are you lowered? From what I've read and seen from friends with there Stangs ( all guys with 5.0s tho) installing a aftermarket UCA & mount with get rid of wheel hop and just LCAs may or may not do the trick. After reading and talking with other v6 owners only 1 said they installed uca/lca for better handling as he does road courses. That's why I pose the question to see if most v6 owners think they don't need it or see a reason to change it out.
i had some slight wheel hop, which was eliminated with the upgraded parts(whiteLine). I am running 2.73s, which I believe is a great ratio for these 3.7L
watch Bobonthebobo eat up these 3.73s with his 2.73s
Long gears offer more pros on an automatic
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUKx_834Sxk


