Does This Count as an Engine Mod?
8/19/14, 06:09 PM
#101
Legacy TMS Member
Don't forget to change that v6 mustang to frickin awesome in your description. 
2012 V6 Mustang no more.
2012 V6 Mustang no more.
Last edited by GrnT; 8/19/14 at 06:55 PM.
8/19/14, 07:48 PM
#103
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
It's ALIVE!!!!
Many thanks to Two Ten Performance for all their guidance and work. If you're in the San Antonio/Austin area, I highly recommend this shop.
Many thanks to Two Ten Performance for all their guidance and work. If you're in the San Antonio/Austin area, I highly recommend this shop.
Last edited by jsimmons; 8/20/14 at 07:11 AM.
8/19/14, 09:55 PM
#105
Legacy TMS Member
It's ALIVE!!!! Video Link: http://youtu.be/IT1cy5lQNsw
You need to troll the next car show and tell everyone you have that ghost cam tune
8/20/14, 06:12 AM
#107
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
:che ers:
8/21/14, 12:00 PM
#112
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Well, it starts out with 3-inch collectors, and the transitions to the 2-1/2 x-pipe, and ends up with a Magna-blow Streets cat-back (also 2.5 inch). (I'm pretty pissed off about the exhaust to be honest - the shop guys promised it wouldn't be too quiet, and here we are.)
Trying to finger out a low-cost solution...
We took the axle-backs off and ran it that way, and it's WAY too loud.
Then we put some 12-inch resonators on the ends of the pipes, and it knocked some edge off the sound, but it's still way too loud.
The mufflers have resonator tips, and I'm half-tempted to cut 'em off and see what it sounds like.
Or maybe open up the mufflers and remove the packing.
I don't freakin know...
Trying to finger out a low-cost solution...
We took the axle-backs off and ran it that way, and it's WAY too loud.
Then we put some 12-inch resonators on the ends of the pipes, and it knocked some edge off the sound, but it's still way too loud.
The mufflers have resonator tips, and I'm half-tempted to cut 'em off and see what it sounds like.
Or maybe open up the mufflers and remove the packing.
I don't freakin know...
8/21/14, 12:53 PM
#113
Legacy TMS Member
Well, it starts out with 3-inch collectors, and the transitions to the 2-1/2 x-pipe, and ends up with a Magna-blow Streets cat-back (also 2.5 inch). (I'm pretty pissed off about the exhaust to be honest - the shop guys promised it wouldn't be too quiet, and here we are.)
Trying to finger out a low-cost solution...
We took the axle-backs off and ran it that way, and it's WAY too loud.
Then we put some 12-inch resonators on the ends of the pipes, and it knocked some edge off the sound, but it's still way too loud.
The mufflers have resonator tips, and I'm half-tempted to cut 'em off and see what it sounds like.
Or maybe open up the mufflers and remove the packing.
I don't freakin know...
Trying to finger out a low-cost solution...
We took the axle-backs off and ran it that way, and it's WAY too loud.
Then we put some 12-inch resonators on the ends of the pipes, and it knocked some edge off the sound, but it's still way too loud.
The mufflers have resonator tips, and I'm half-tempted to cut 'em off and see what it sounds like.
Or maybe open up the mufflers and remove the packing.
I don't freakin know...
8/22/14, 12:22 AM
#114
Bullitt Member
For that old school sound you need a muffler where you look into one end and see out the other! The pipes don't even need to reach to the rear axle unless it's too loud for you.
8/22/14, 03:55 AM
#115
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
Yesterday, we were working on electrical stuff.
0) We got the alternator hooked up and charging the battery
1) The radiator fan is working
2) The key now starts the car
3) The tach works
Issues:
0) We had to electrically connect the automatic trans to the car (and put it in park) to get the engine to start with the key. We're not sure yet what we have to do to bypass this circuit.
1) ALL of the lights are on in the instrument cluster when the engine is running. Some we know why (seat belt, air bag, traction control, oil pressure), the others need to be turned off somehow.
2) We discovered a water leak. On small block Fords, there's a backing plate on the water pump. This plate is connected to the water pump with a couple of screws. It seems that the screws on my water pump (bought at Summit Racing) are too tall, and they're keeping the pump from sealing all the way. This means we have to dismantle the entire front of the engine to remove the pump and fix the problem. This is about four hours of work, and everything else is on hold until it's fixed.
While we were starting the car repeatedly yesterday, I decided I may be able to live with the exhaust the way it is for now because it really sounds nothing like a 2012 Mustang you've ever heard before. It DEFINITELY doesn't sound like a Coyote motor.
0) We got the alternator hooked up and charging the battery
1) The radiator fan is working
2) The key now starts the car
3) The tach works
Issues:
0) We had to electrically connect the automatic trans to the car (and put it in park) to get the engine to start with the key. We're not sure yet what we have to do to bypass this circuit.
1) ALL of the lights are on in the instrument cluster when the engine is running. Some we know why (seat belt, air bag, traction control, oil pressure), the others need to be turned off somehow.
2) We discovered a water leak. On small block Fords, there's a backing plate on the water pump. This plate is connected to the water pump with a couple of screws. It seems that the screws on my water pump (bought at Summit Racing) are too tall, and they're keeping the pump from sealing all the way. This means we have to dismantle the entire front of the engine to remove the pump and fix the problem. This is about four hours of work, and everything else is on hold until it's fixed.
While we were starting the car repeatedly yesterday, I decided I may be able to live with the exhaust the way it is for now because it really sounds nothing like a 2012 Mustang you've ever heard before. It DEFINITELY doesn't sound like a Coyote motor.
Last edited by jsimmons; 8/22/14 at 05:52 AM.
8/22/14, 06:23 AM
#118
2013 RR Boss 302 #2342
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8/22/14, 06:39 AM
#119
FR500 Member
I was wondering about that too.
Coverage through the conventional market will only insure the base car as if it was stock. Modifications, no matter how minor, or extensive in this case, will not be insured.
Specialty markets such as Haggerty, Grundy, and others may only apply to collector vehicles and there may be a model year cut-off.
There are carriers who offer stated value policies, but this will take research. He'll probably have to get the vehicle value appraised which will be difficult since the likihood of finding cars with similar mods in which to compare values (refered to as comps) will be tough.
The third option though makes more sense.
Coverage through the conventional market will only insure the base car as if it was stock. Modifications, no matter how minor, or extensive in this case, will not be insured.
Specialty markets such as Haggerty, Grundy, and others may only apply to collector vehicles and there may be a model year cut-off.
There are carriers who offer stated value policies, but this will take research. He'll probably have to get the vehicle value appraised which will be difficult since the likihood of finding cars with similar mods in which to compare values (refered to as comps) will be tough.
The third option though makes more sense.
8/22/14, 07:28 AM
#120
Cobra Member
Thread Starter
I'm going to try foir stated value. I have every receipt for every part, right down to nuts and washers. I just have to add them up. My estimate is $65k.