My insurance company suggested that I take out a rider or an add on for the mods only as it is something that they offer. That would cover all of the mods, while the normal insurance would cover the car. Perhaps that is an option offered by your insurance company.

 

Yesterday:

0) We wired up the transmission and found that the speedo does in fact work. This concludes our OEM instrument cluster stuff. The speedo, tach, and fuel gauge all seem to work.

1) We decided to bypass the sim start feature and ran a wire directly from the ignition switch to the starter relay. We no longer have any starting issues.

Today, we're going to finish up the electrical, fix the water pump, address the exhaust decibel level, and weld the rear slip joint on the drive shaft.

 

I vote glass packs. Prob about 24" mid-pipe.

 

Thrush Turbo's sounded good on my Cleveland

 

I could support this haha. Do them mid-muffler style, behind an H-pipe.

 

I second the Thrush turbo,s

 

Swap Day 14:

Finished up the electrical (kinda - see item 3 and 4).

0) We don't know why, but we have to jumper the harness (in the trunk) to get the fuel pump to work.

1) Reverse lockout, clutch switch (prevents car from starting without clutch being pressed in), tack, speed, fuel gauge all seem to work

2) Connected AFR gauge and existing analog gauges

3) For some reason, the fan only gives us low-speed rotation. We decided to remove the throttle position sensor, and move to a fan switch/relay kit.

4) The shop guys want to use a NOS WOT switch to turn off the A/C. I think maybe the TPS can be used for that instead. I'm gonna do some research.

After the electrical was done, we decided to start the car again to check out water temp and oil pressure. The good news - 60-70 pounds of oil pressure. The bad news - temp went up to 235 and we shut it off. It doesn't seem like the cooling system is working like it should. Tuesday, they're gonna pull the water pump off to grind down the backing plate screws, and make sure the thermostat is working okay.

 

Air pocket in the system somewhere maybe?

 

That's what we think, but before we can chase that down, we gotta fix the water pump issue, so I figured we'd check the thermostat as well. I stopped the the auto parts store for necessary gaskets and a new thermostat, just in case.

 

I vote for Thrush too

 

I have a choice right now between these two setups:

- A used set of Flowmaster Outlaws (for $100) that came off a 2012 Boss 302. The benefit of using these is that they already have stainless tips and hangers on them. The down side is that they're 3-inch inlets, and starting behind the x-pipe, my exhaust is 2-1/2 inch Magnaflow, so I would have to adapt them to the existing pipes.

- A brand new set of Moroso SpiralFlow mufflers (also 3-inch). I would have to buy tips and hanger rods, and would still have to adapt them to the existing system.

 

I was having a late 60's early 70's flashback. Everyone i knew ran CherryBombs or Thrush. I ran Thrush because they were loud (no burn in) out of the box

 

Well, we removed the water pump, and the shop happened to have a discarded pump, so we removed the backing plate allen-head cap screws, and replaced them with the bolts from the bad pump. Problem soolved. We'll be getting our termal rad fan switch and NOS WOT switch today, and we'll be ready to tune the car. Looking for street duty by Friday/Saturday.

 

I really look forward to these updates....can't wait until you get it on the street.

 

Test Drive! We drove it about 10 miles this evening (no hood or bumper cover). We should be completely done by Friday, and we're going to a car meet to celebrate. When the car is completely back together, I'll post another video or two or three.

 

I vote three

 

I'm building a walk-around video, but here's the car with "better" mufflers and fully dressed (hood and bumper on the car, and blue tape removed):


Shop wants to put it on the dyno possibly Saturday, but the car has a weird vibration in 6th gear on the freeway. I want to try balancing the driveshaft before throwing it on the dyno. We welded the rear slip yoke and may have introduced an imbalance. We may also need to check the pinion angle, but we're going to do the balance first because adjusting pinion angle is a pain in the azz without an adjustable UCA.

 

What mufflers did you switch to?

 

Flowmaster Outlaws