....

 

Hey there JSIMMONS ! Was at Lester's Automotive today and was talking to Bob about a guy dropping in a 427! He remembers y'all's conversation well and can't wait to see it completed.

 

Swap Day 07 Update

Drive shaft is in


Exhaust is done - headers go out for coating on Monday


Headers prevented "normal" use of dipstick, so we had to be the crap out of the tube


Top and bottom radiator hoses came from a Fox mustang




We moved the radiator a bit farther forward to resolve a clearance issue with the water pump and the fan


Mounted carburetor and installed linkage. We're having a problem with the throttle cable popping off the throttle ball at full throttle. Gotta think on it some


We had to modify the air cleaner base so that the air cleaner would clear the firewall. This entailed cutting the carb hole out with more material on one end than the other, turning it around, and welding it back into place. Then, we made a "S"-shaped stud to accommodate the offset.




We have 5-7 working days before we get the headers back from the coater, and that will give us time to finish running the fuel line, mount the expansion tank, and do the electrical stuff. By the time the headers come back next week, we should be ready to start the engine for the first time.

 

A few questions. Why go carborated and not use a fuel injection kit? Also what hood will you be going with since it would seem that the carb won't fit under the stock hood or in your case the cervini hood.

 

0) Because the whole point of this mod is to make the car maintainable by yours truly. It's ABSURD to pay someone $400 (or more) to plug in a computer to adjust your car.

1) Because $3000 for a decent FI kit that can support the HP.

I'm using my Cervini hood. The motor, carb, and air cleaner were the same height as the motor that came out of the car (measured up from the frame to the top of the engine) with more than an inch to spare. I added a 1-inch spacer between the carb and intake, so if I need to, I can simply remove it - no harm no foul. It will fit.

 

Can't wait till next week

 

Update - Day 08

Mounted the expansion tank in its new location.


Had to fabricate a bracket for it.


We also mounted the coil (also on a custom bracket) and the A/C compressor.


Finally, I built and installed the plug wires.

 

I think you're going to have one of the fastest V6 mustangs around hehehe

 

I enjoyed reading your site and I have to admit that this was the best part! I am going to quote you here.

" I feel like the brakes and motor are fine as they are. Finally, I'm not going to be "tracking" the car, so there's no real need for improving the sway bars and other running gear at this time. I might still replace the driveshaft simply for the weight savings and improved reliability, but that's about as far as I intend to go with driveline changes."

hahaha, how long did that last?


Looking forward to seeing the progress on this car!

 

Please post up videos when you get it running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 427 was always the most bad a$$ engine. Sure 440, 454 and 455 cu.in. were out there but the 427 was the KING!!!

 

That's the plan. It was originally gonna be a 408, but "427" sounds better.

 

Amazing. I see a lot of threads about guys putting Coyote mod motors in Foxbody Mustangs. This is the opposite and so much cooler!!

 

I call it a "retro-mod".

 

So does this void your warranty?

 

Warranty?

 

We got the tee for the lower radiator hose and installed it. I was amazed at the quality of the part. It's a billet piece with no welded-on stuff. Primo gear. All we have left on the cooling system is an overflow hose connection. That should be handled today.

The fuel lines have been plumbed. I paid half of the cost of a "Koul Tool" for the shop. This is a vice-like machine that allows you to put a push-lock hoses onto an AN fitting in less than 2 minutes (less than 30 seconds if you have air tools). Believe me when I say that you don't want to be without this tool if you're doing push-lock lines. We're still waiting on an aluminum plug for the fuel pressure regulator, and when we get it (should be today), the fuel system will be done. The shop guy wants to weld a couple of fittings for the fuel pressure gauge, and that should also be happening today.

I'm still waiting to hear if we're going to get the headers back today.

The schedule for the weekend includes:

- Finish up the cooling system
- Finish up the fuel system
- Finish up A/C compressor install
- Install air/fuel gauge in a vent pod
- Install the MSD box
- Weld O2 sensor bungs into x-pipe
- Install headers and x-pipe for the final time
- Install TPS sensor on carb
- Install temp gauge sensor
- Install oil pressure sensor
- Start electrical work

Another aspect of this swap that I haven't yet mentioned is the work of a tuner to turn a bunch of stuff off, as well as remapping other parameters to allow the ECU to function without blowing its little electronic mind. As I get details, I will write it down for the sanity of those who follow in my footsteps.

 

Jsimmons, you rock. This is a 5-star thread.

 

I agree. He may be the baddest **** in the Mustang world right now. Only thing that he could have done to top it was to go all out and drop a Jon Kaase Boss Nine into it.

http://www.jonkaaseracingengines.com...e-mustang.html

 

I'm gonna have to be the ultra jerk here and ask the obvious question of why? Why a 2012 V6 body? Such an amazing power plant and drivetrain in a POS insignificant body. Sorry OP I'm not trying to dog your car by any means. But to put a fantastic big block ford motor in your car instead of a much more iconic or special body just doesn't sit well with me. That much work and greatness in a 69 or 70 fastback would be an epic machine. Even in a first gen for that matter. Maybe it's just me and my problem with not keeping vehicles. I'm just figuring up the value and return of investments. Desirability of the build. Dunno. I just don't get it. Project looks great otherwise.

 

0) It's not a big block - it's a Windsor bored and stroked to 427cid.

1) Why in a "POS" and "insignificant" chassis? Because finding an appropriate mustang chassis (anything made before 1971) that doesn't need significant body/frame repair for reasonable money is nigh impossible. Yeah, I could also choose to purchase a Dynacorn chassis, but that would end up costing me about $70k to build the car.

My car is absolutely rust-free, all the suspension and brakes are already done on the car, and the car looks the way I want as well.

As for return on investment, this is hot-rodding - the ROI always sucks, and I'm not doing this with an eye on resale value.