Catch Cans
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Joined: December 4, 2011
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From: Central Florida
Catch Cans
Curious about this. I do lots of highway driving, cruising at 80 MPH for a couple of hours. In looking at the oil catch cans for the V6, I see they sell only a passenger side kit. If I install, I'd build my own and save about 70 bucks using an air compressor water catch can.
My question: why is only the passenger side being sold? I can see the drivers side has a tube running from the drivers side valve cover to the air inlet tube, right before the throttle body. Doesn't the drivers side produce oil vapor? And if so, that vapor would (over time) assist in getting the throttle plate in getting gunked up over time.
So, why only a kit for the passenger side? PCV issues?
I also notice that the GT folks only use a catch can on their drivers side....
My question: why is only the passenger side being sold? I can see the drivers side has a tube running from the drivers side valve cover to the air inlet tube, right before the throttle body. Doesn't the drivers side produce oil vapor? And if so, that vapor would (over time) assist in getting the throttle plate in getting gunked up over time.
So, why only a kit for the passenger side? PCV issues?
I also notice that the GT folks only use a catch can on their drivers side....
Last edited by Bucko; Dec 19, 2012 at 12:39 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Central Florida
N/A as in naturally asperated and F/I as in fuel injected (corrected: force induction)...Our Mustangs are fuel injected. I'll assume you meant turbo'd or supercharged require both.
Thanks.
Update: Always duplicated abbreviations used these days!
Thanks.
Update: Always duplicated abbreviations used these days!
Last edited by Bucko; Dec 20, 2012 at 08:30 AM.
Team Mustang Source
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From: So. FL
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Originally Posted by Bucko
N/A as in non asperated and F/I as in fuel injected...Our Mustangs are fuel injected. I'll assume you meant turbo'd or supercharged require both.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Shelby GT350 Member
Joined: May 18, 2010
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From: CT
I bought my JLT catch can last year and have run it for about 6,000 miles. To date, I have collected less than half an oz of oil from it. I suspect that some cars have more blow-by than others but by my estimation, my money might have been better spent on GM stock.
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From: Central Florida
Bad spelling on my part, and/or duplicated abbreviations. Thanks for the corrections!
If I add one at all, it will be a home brewed version, using an air compressor water catch bottle.
If I add one at all, it will be a home brewed version, using an air compressor water catch bottle.
Last edited by Bucko; Dec 20, 2012 at 08:31 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Central Florida
I think I may add one just to test how much, if any, I'd catch. I drive close to 4K a month at mostly highway speeds. No major engine add ons, but am curious to see...
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
You need to do a search here friend. There are numerous threads about this - mostly under 'oil seps' or oil separators. As to why not to use home depot style air compressor seps, and how some have reported that JLT is too restrictive - and that's prob why you're not catching much. One guy put a Moroso on, then a JLT, then back to Moroso. The Moroso caught more - meaning it is more free flowing and therefore doing what it is supposed to do.
V6 Member
Joined: January 7, 2011
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From: Pittsburgh
I have a JLT Oil Separator on my passenger side on my 2011 GT and it gets about 1/4 full every month or so. Plenty of guys have put them on the driver's side and have found that they hardly get a drop of oil in that one. So i would recommend only one on the passenger side.
2011 GT Premium 400A MT82, Jlt oil separator, Airaid CAI, GT500 axle backs, BMR Panhard Bar, Side window louvers, 3M clear front end body armor, 35% window tint and soon to be installed MGW shifter.
2011 GT Premium 400A MT82, Jlt oil separator, Airaid CAI, GT500 axle backs, BMR Panhard Bar, Side window louvers, 3M clear front end body armor, 35% window tint and soon to be installed MGW shifter.
Last edited by Kgilly; Dec 20, 2012 at 11:25 AM. Reason: misspelled word
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From: SoCal
If your car is non-aspirated, you might want to turn the key.
I bought my JLT catch can last year and have run it for about 6,000 miles. To date, I have collected less than half an oz of oil from it. I suspect that some cars have more blow-by than others but by my estimation, my money might have been better spent on GM stock.
I bought my JLT catch can last year and have run it for about 6,000 miles. To date, I have collected less than half an oz of oil from it. I suspect that some cars have more blow-by than others but by my estimation, my money might have been better spent on GM stock.
I literally just LOL'd at work reading this.
Everyone thinks I'm crazy now, thanks.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: September 6, 2011
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From: Kansas City, MO
If your car is non-aspirated, you might want to turn the key.
I bought my JLT catch can last year and have run it for about 6,000 miles. To date, I have collected less than half an oz of oil from it. I suspect that some cars have more blow-by than others but by my estimation, my money might have been better spent on GM stock.
I bought my JLT catch can last year and have run it for about 6,000 miles. To date, I have collected less than half an oz of oil from it. I suspect that some cars have more blow-by than others but by my estimation, my money might have been better spent on GM stock.
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From: Central Florida
Plenty of prior discussions about this but I'm with @MRGTX. Why people are so obsessed with making mods like this to brand-new motor designs tested and engineered by Ford to not need anything like this is beyond me. If you're seriously modding your car, that's one thing. But it's just pointless on a mostly stock motor, IMO.
I have a 2005 F150 that has 136K on it. At 100K, I removed the throttle body to clean the throttle plate, as I was beginning to feel a bit of a stumble during idle. The plate was filthy with oil/carbon build up. After cleaning it with throttle body cleaner and re-installing, the idle and off idle accelleration improved 10 fold!
Don't want to start another battle, as the search showed this topic has been covered before, many times. My error for not using the search first. It will not happen again.
Last edited by Bucko; Dec 20, 2012 at 12:02 PM.
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From: State of Jefferson Mountains USA
However, I do not want a "cake and bake" in my engine.
This was at 15k by another member with a 4.6
I saved these notes from BKU Motorsports when he was trying the help Colby with an excessive oil usage situation:
Seeing some of the questions and comments in other posts, I thought it might help if some of you look at PCV flow in a different manor. First, pressure and flow are two totally different things, and both are very important to the PCV system. As an example I hear a lot of people referring to a specific # InHg of vacuum relative to diagnosing the PCV system. Vacuum is important, and should maintain a close proximity to your intake manifold vacuum, but flow is a volumetric measurement, normally measured in CFM for PCV systems. So lets say you see 22 InHg of vacuum on the high side for your PCV system, that would be within range, but if you saw 22 InHg @ 150 CFM, that would be an extreme amount of over drafting on the crankcase. Likewise, if you saw 22 InHg @ 2 CFM that would not be sufficient flow to evacuate crankcase gases. Normally in most cases an over drafting of the crankcase is present. This is why just about all engines suffer from oil in the induction system. When the engineers are designing the engine packages in most vehicles the only number they are concerned with is the minimum flow rate required to evacuate the crankcase gases. Because of this, they allow for too much flow (CFM) to the PCV system, creating oil issues right from the beginning. This is very easy to understand looking at their primary objective, and that is not emissions, which is what the PCV system was primarily designed for in the beginning. You see, when they increase flow to the PCV system, they evacuate more crankcase gases, which allows for increased service intervals. As you can see with many new cars today, many don't require oil changes until 7500 miles. If you follow the history of the PCV system you’ll see what I mean. Remember when break-in oil changes were recommended, that important 500 mile oil change. Back then a lot of engines were open vented with valve cover breathers, to vent crankcase pressure and oil changes were recommended every 1500-2000 miles depending on driving condition. Then along came open loop PCV systems and push-pull systems, along with better oils, and the change intervals went up again. Now with closed loop PCV systems, and modern oils, some vehicles are on a 10,000 mile change interval. This is why I always recommend anyone who has deleted their PCV system, stay away from the west coast unless you want a nasty fine and change your oil every 2000 miles. Never the less this isn't a problem for most, most are dealing with the over drafting issue and oil in your intake, causing detonation issues and plug fowling along with horsepower robbing sludge building in your intakes, plates, burning to your valves causing intake flow issues, etc. Hence the reason we designed our custom separators over 12 years ago with internal regulation to counteract against the over drafting on the crankcase, reducing the oil that actually makes it into the PCV system, and then catching the oil that does in the separator itself. Hopefully this shines a little more light on the PCV system, and possible issues some are having.
Last edited by cdynaco; Dec 20, 2012 at 12:20 PM.
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From: Central Florida
In examining the tubes that run from the valve covers and then to the intake (passenger side) and to the air inlet tube (drivers side) of my 3.7 V6, it too is a straight tube. No one way valve for either, so if it does produce oil vapor, then it's being sucked right into the intake at one side, right in front of the throttle body. My engine has just over 36k; lots of highway miles. I removed the air intake tube, and the outward facing throttle plate looked clean; from all the threads I've read, this is the side that does not create much oil vapor; the passenger side is suspect. I took a long cotten swab and wiped the inside of the tube from the passenger side. It was indeed oily. How bad is bad? I don't know.
It's worth trying. I plan to use an older Craftsman air compressor water seperator; its bowl is glass and it's mounting base is metal; no plastic to get soft or collapse. It does not have any filter within the bowl, so my concern would be if the oil vapor would simply get sucked right through and not settle into the bowl. using steel wool would not be logical, as it might break apart and end up in the intake/cylinders. I hope that mounting it just below the head would allow the oil (if any) to settle into the bowl. All the pictures I see from the JLT kits make it look as though this is how it should be placed (catch can).
It's worth trying. I plan to use an older Craftsman air compressor water seperator; its bowl is glass and it's mounting base is metal; no plastic to get soft or collapse. It does not have any filter within the bowl, so my concern would be if the oil vapor would simply get sucked right through and not settle into the bowl. using steel wool would not be logical, as it might break apart and end up in the intake/cylinders. I hope that mounting it just below the head would allow the oil (if any) to settle into the bowl. All the pictures I see from the JLT kits make it look as though this is how it should be placed (catch can).
Last edited by Bucko; Dec 20, 2012 at 12:56 PM.
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Joined: September 6, 2011
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From: Kansas City, MO
The more I searched this forum and the more I read, the more I became one of those that believes it indeed helps remove oil/oil vapor from getting into the intake and throttle body. As one member stated, most of us believe in changing the engine oil a bit sooner than the Ford recommended intervals. Most of us would not keep automatic transmission fluid for 150K as Ford suggests. So why is such a simple mod such as this looked upon as pointless?
I have a 2005 F150 that has 136K on it. At 100K, I removed the throttle body to clean the throttle plate, as I was beginning to feel a bit of a stumble during idle. The plate was filthy with oil/carbon build up. After cleaning it with throttle body cleaner and re-installing, the idle and off idle accelleration improved 10 fold!
Don't want to start another battle, as the search showed this topic has been covered before, many times. My error for not using the search first. It will not happen again.
I have a 2005 F150 that has 136K on it. At 100K, I removed the throttle body to clean the throttle plate, as I was beginning to feel a bit of a stumble during idle. The plate was filthy with oil/carbon build up. After cleaning it with throttle body cleaner and re-installing, the idle and off idle accelleration improved 10 fold!
Don't want to start another battle, as the search showed this topic has been covered before, many times. My error for not using the search first. It will not happen again.
I appreciate those sentiments. I can't speak to the 5.0 or the 3.7, but the 4.6/3V does have a high degree of blow by. And Ford knows it. Why Ford doesn't actually use the PC"Valve" - you know that one way floating plug like cars of old - is beyond me. Its just a dang straight tube going right into the intake.
However, I do not want a "cake and bake" in my engine.
This was at 15k by another member with a 4.6
I saved these notes from BKU Motorsports when he was trying the help Colby with an excessive oil usage situation:
However, I do not want a "cake and bake" in my engine.
This was at 15k by another member with a 4.6
I saved these notes from BKU Motorsports when he was trying the help Colby with an excessive oil usage situation:
In examining the tubes that run from the valve covers and then to the intake (passenger side) and to the air inlet tube (drivers side) of my 3.7 V6, it too is a straight tube. No one way valve for either, so if it does produce oil vapor, then it's being sucked right into the intake at one side, right in front of the throttle body. My engine has just over 36k; lots of highway miles. I removed the air intake tube, and the outward facing throttle plate looked clean; from all the threads I've read, this is the side that does not create much oil vapor; the passenger side is suspect. I took a long cotten swab and wiped the inside of the tube from the passenger side. It was indeed oily. How bad is bad? I don't know.
It's worth trying. I plan to use an older Craftsman air compressor water seperator; its bowl is glass and it's mounting base is metal; no plastic to get soft or collapse. It does not have any filter within the bowl, so my concern would be if the oil vapor would simply get sucked right through and not settle into the bowl. using steel wool would not be logical, as it might break apart and end up in the intake/cylinders. I hope that mounting it just below the head would allow the oil (if any) to settle into the bowl. All the pictures I see from the JLT kits make it look as though this is how it should be placed (catch can).
It's worth trying. I plan to use an older Craftsman air compressor water seperator; its bowl is glass and it's mounting base is metal; no plastic to get soft or collapse. It does not have any filter within the bowl, so my concern would be if the oil vapor would simply get sucked right through and not settle into the bowl. using steel wool would not be logical, as it might break apart and end up in the intake/cylinders. I hope that mounting it just below the head would allow the oil (if any) to settle into the bowl. All the pictures I see from the JLT kits make it look as though this is how it should be placed (catch can).
Thanks guys.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: July 16, 2010
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http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%20Basics%20Root%20Folder/Crankcase%20Ventilation.html
Please read to learn about crankcase ventilation.
Please read to learn about crankcase ventilation.
Bullitt Member
Joined: February 27, 2012
Posts: 229
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Originally Posted by 908ssp
http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%20Basics%20Root%20Folder/Crankcase%20Ventilation.html
Please read to learn about crankcase ventilation.
http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%2...ntilation.html
Please read to learn about crankcase ventilation.
http://www.enginebasics.com/Engine%2...ntilation.html