I am looking at options to upgrade my engine. I am supercharged now but don't want to add any more power until I do something with the bottom end of my engine. I saw online and I see I can get a new 2015 GT crate engine for $6,900. I know the bottom ends in those engines are healthier than ours and I also know the cylinder heads flow more as well.

Is there anything other than the timing cover,water pump, and cam covers that I would have to swap over? I am running a TVS today so I would have to use my intake manifold anyway.

 

The 2015 engine is the same as the 11-14 motors dimensionally but you wouldn't be able to control the phasers with the 11-14 ECU.

What kind of power are you wanting to make?

 

I want to make 700HP and know I can get there Turing up the boost etc but know that these rods and Pistons will give up before then.

 

You can get the Piston, Rod, Wrist pin, bearing and rings from the 2015 for something like $115 each and send it off to a shop if you are looking at a budget. You can also have your block sent out and replace it with stronger fully forged rods, and pistons as well.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191737619416?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Thanks for the info Scott. I was hoping to stay 11:1 as the tune file I am running for my TVS is set up for that. The more I think about it I think I will go wth a Ford Racing Aluminator short block. It's essentially a Boss bottom end, and the compression ratio is stock. If I go that route, I'll pretty much have an engine I won't need to worry about for a long time.

 

Can't beat the Aluminator for a set-up capable of 900rwhp and factory-built parts.

For boost they even make the 9.5:1 version which can take about 20 psi of boost.
Friend of mine has one in his '12 and with a super-safe tune running only 9 degrees of timing he's at 631/560.

He's a tune change away from 700+ rwhp

 

Hey Gabe! How in the hell are you?

 

Hey Robert, what's up man ..... I'm OK, been working on the girlfriend's Subaru. The thing dropped a valve guide, had to take the heads off and send them off to be reworked, got them back on, hoping to have it running again today. A buddy is coming over to help put it back together ... need to get the intake back on, all the accessories, and all the connections, electrical/vacuum/coolant/etc.

The Mustang's just been sitting in the garage, got new wheels/tires for it, it's going back into the World OF Wheels show in Boston this spring, April 1st to be exact.

Just had a Mustang Club breakfast meet yesterday ...

 

Sounds fun man. I'll have to catch one of those breakfasts one day.

You know. I have never been to the world of wheels show. How many cars attend?

 

Facebook is the best way to keep up to speed on the breakfasts or the various other events of the club
https://www.facebook.com/groups/180383725385015/


Check out my Facebook album with pics from the show last year, where I entered for my first time:

https://www.facebook.com/gabe.popa1/...9217567&type=3

 

Thanks Gabe. We will have to catch up somewhere in the Spring.

Hey check out this engine. Looks to be an even better deal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MUSTANG...hVTP5o&vxp=mtr

 

It is even better than a Boss bottom end. It is a fully forged Manley rotating assembly. The only problem with the Aluminators is that Ford Racing now switched them over to 2015 spec which means you get the the 2015 heads and now the 2015 phasers and oil filter mount which is supposedly at a different angle for the 2015 cars. Since you are going to be swapping out the oil pump gears for billet ones you have to remove the phasers anyway so you could always get the 11-14 style phasers and swap them over.

Or you can call JPC and talk to my buddy Aaron or Eric and you can have RGR build you a full long block. When I first started this whole engine build thing I told Aaron I had a budget of somewhere around $12k and he had said they could probably get a full engine for around that much depending on what I wanted to do. If you do call JPC tell them that Sean Wright sent you

Edit:

Stay FAR away from those Ebay motors! A rotating assembly from Manley costs you something like $2,200 so how they are pricing their motors so cheap is beyond me. You then have to factor in bolts, bearings, rings, new plugs etc. it just seems awfully cheap. Not to mention that shop is a GM shop, not saying they aren't a good shop but an LS motor is different than a Modular Motor. I would rather go with someone who works on these motors all the time, someone that I know and that I can trust if I am going to spend that kind of money. I haven't even heard of AMS Racing until everyone started posting these ebay links for these stupid cheap shortblocks. I would stick with a known Modular Motor builder if it was me .... and probably not MMR

 

I am thinking I'll go with a Ford Racing Short Block. Then I should be good.